Are brake booster check valves universal?
May 5th, 2024, 06:55 PM
#2
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I don't know if they're universal. I've only ever replaced one (on an old Dodge Dart I had back in the '70s). I'd surely get the correct one for the model brake booster you have on the car. Did you pull the valve and have a look-see? It might be possible you'll find a yard of gunk, debris & sludge you can clean out. Just a thought.
May 5th, 2024, 06:59 PM
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I don't know if they're universal. I've only ever replaced one (on an old Dodge Dart I had back in the '70s). I'd surely get the correct one for the model brake booster you have on the car. Did you pull the valve and have a look-see? It might be possible you'll find a yard of gunk, debris & sludge you can clean out. Just a thought.
May 5th, 2024, 07:07 PM
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They are "generally" universal for the GM Abody (and other GM models) models. 68 or 69 at least through 72 will be the same. Pre-68 are a different design compared to yours.
Auto parts stores carry these for your car and then you can go from there if the more exact original look is a concern.
They should either hold suction or not....not really any "in between" on these valves.
Auto parts stores carry these for your car and then you can go from there if the more exact original look is a concern.
They should either hold suction or not....not really any "in between" on these valves.
May 5th, 2024, 07:08 PM
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Is this the one you're looking at? Supposedly it fits a 1972 7.5L/455.
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
May 5th, 2024, 07:12 PM
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They are "generally" universal for the GM Abody (and other GM models) models. 68 or 69 at least through 72 will be the same. Pre-68 are a different design compared to yours.
Auto parts stores carry these for your car and then you can go from there if the more exact original look is a concern.
They should either hold suction or not....not really any "in between" on these valves.
Auto parts stores carry these for your car and then you can go from there if the more exact original look is a concern.
They should either hold suction or not....not really any "in between" on these valves.
May 5th, 2024, 07:13 PM
#7
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Is this the one you're looking at? Supposedly it fits a 1972 7.5L/455.
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
May 5th, 2024, 07:23 PM
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Remove the valve from the hose and booster and.....wait for it......suck and blow (from both openings while you're at it). You should be able to blow air through one end and then suck on the same end and not get any air. Same thing from the other opening on the valve. Sorry about the description but that best describes it. This can be done with a Mighty Vac vacuum tool as well (with proper sized hose).
$18 (+ shipping I assume) seems like a ridiculous price for one of these. Check around....I see a black plastic one at AutoZone (Dorman) for less than $10.
Heck - I have a new one from Inline Tube or NAPA I'll sell you if these are for some reason hard to find (which they shouldn't be). EDIT: Maybe not.....just found the new NAPA valve I bought a few years ago (stored in my house) and it doesn't seem to pass the suck/blow test completely. Have a lot of nice originals that pass the test...but that style isn't repro'd as far as I know.
It does look like the Raybestos valve is "out of stock".....jeez......this crap never ends.
$18 (+ shipping I assume) seems like a ridiculous price for one of these. Check around....I see a black plastic one at AutoZone (Dorman) for less than $10.
Heck - I have a new one from Inline Tube or NAPA I'll sell you if these are for some reason hard to find (which they shouldn't be). EDIT: Maybe not.....just found the new NAPA valve I bought a few years ago (stored in my house) and it doesn't seem to pass the suck/blow test completely. Have a lot of nice originals that pass the test...but that style isn't repro'd as far as I know.
It does look like the Raybestos valve is "out of stock".....jeez......this crap never ends.
Last edited by 70Post; May 5th, 2024 at 07:36 PM.
May 5th, 2024, 07:27 PM
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Remove the valve from the hose and booster and.....wait for it......suck and blow (from both openings while you're at it). You should be able to blow air through one end and then suck on the same end and not get any air. Same thing from the other opening on the valve. Sorry about the description but that best describes it. This can be done with a Mighty Vac vacuum tool as well (with proper sized hose).
$18 (+ shipping I assume) seems like a ridiculous price for one of these. Check around....I see a black plastic one at AutoZone (Dorman) for less than $10.
Heck - I have a new one from Inline Tube or NAPA I'll sell you if these are for some reason hard to find (which they shouldn't be).
It does look like the Raybestos valve is "out of stock".....jeez......this crap never ends.
$18 (+ shipping I assume) seems like a ridiculous price for one of these. Check around....I see a black plastic one at AutoZone (Dorman) for less than $10.
Heck - I have a new one from Inline Tube or NAPA I'll sell you if these are for some reason hard to find (which they shouldn't be).
It does look like the Raybestos valve is "out of stock".....jeez......this crap never ends.
May 5th, 2024, 07:29 PM
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Is this the one you're looking at? Supposedly it fits a 1972 7.5L/455.
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Shipping from some of these places is just stupid.
May 5th, 2024, 07:32 PM
#11
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Web search shows Dorman 80189 is available from numerous sources for around $8. Check with your local auto parts store.
But test yours as noted above before doing anything else. In 40 years of driving my car the check valve has never failed.
But test yours as noted above before doing anything else. In 40 years of driving my car the check valve has never failed.
May 5th, 2024, 07:36 PM
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Yeah that 80189 fits your buggy, also. Probably the delta is manufacturer(s) and claims of better quality.
Applications for RNB-80189
Applications for RNB-80189
May 5th, 2024, 07:38 PM
#13
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Is this the one you're looking at? Supposedly it fits a 1972 7.5L/455.
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Power Brake Booster Check Valves CV89000
Yeah that 80189 fits your buggy, also. Probably the delta is manufacturer(s) and claims of better quality.
Applications for RNB-80189
Applications for RNB-80189
Whatever "Professional Grade" represents/means. You have to be a Professional Race Car driver, maybe? LOL
May 5th, 2024, 07:39 PM
#14
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I'll run that test tomorrow and scoop up the one from Auto Zone just in case.
May 5th, 2024, 08:07 PM
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Yes, that particular brand is out of stock in several places. It wasn't my intention to suggest Dave purchased it from Summit, I was only interested in suggesting this might be one to consider (wherever he buys it).
Shipping from some of these places is just stupid.
Shipping from some of these places is just stupid.
.
May 5th, 2024, 08:29 PM
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Patton - Unless someone runs an automotive service garage/shop & is dependent on weekly shipments of a large quantity of items, the last place I'd buy an item would be RA. Their shipping prices are stupid.
May 6th, 2024, 05:18 PM
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So I did the test on the old one, and while it functioned accordingly, it seemed more "restrictive" than the new one, so I replaced it. Also, the grommet for the old one was no longer soft and pliable, so that got replaced as well.
Hopefully that fixes my issue.
Hopefully that fixes my issue.
May 6th, 2024, 05:20 PM
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May 6th, 2024, 06:26 PM
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That's because I didn't mention it...lol.
When I step on the brakes, the pedal is a bit spongy, but if I let off and step on them again, I get a good pedal. This started after I replaced the driver side rear shoes about 2 weeks ago. Before that all was good, and here's what I know:
1-I didn't crack the system open when I replaced the shoes.
2-Shoes were installed correctly.
3-No leaks, and fluid level is good.
4-Rear shoes are adjusted properly (I checked them for for wear).
wear.
5-No uneven braking or pull to one side or the other.
When I did the research, my symptoms pointed to a bad booster check valve. The only other thing I could think of is the new shoes need to 'bed in".
When I step on the brakes, the pedal is a bit spongy, but if I let off and step on them again, I get a good pedal. This started after I replaced the driver side rear shoes about 2 weeks ago. Before that all was good, and here's what I know:
1-I didn't crack the system open when I replaced the shoes.
2-Shoes were installed correctly.
3-No leaks, and fluid level is good.
4-Rear shoes are adjusted properly (I checked them for for wear).
wear.
5-No uneven braking or pull to one side or the other.
When I did the research, my symptoms pointed to a bad booster check valve. The only other thing I could think of is the new shoes need to 'bed in".
May 7th, 2024, 07:46 AM
#23
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That's because I didn't mention it...lol.
When I step on the brakes, the pedal is a bit spongy, but if I let off and step on them again, I get a good pedal. This started after I replaced the driver side rear shoes about 2 weeks ago. Before that all was good, and here's what I know:
1-I didn't crack the system open when I replaced the shoes.
2-Shoes were installed correctly.
3-No leaks, and fluid level is good.
4-Rear shoes are adjusted properly (I checked them for for wear).
wear.
5-No uneven braking or pull to one side or the other.
When I did the research, my symptoms pointed to a bad booster check valve. The only other thing I could think of is the new shoes need to 'bed in".
When I step on the brakes, the pedal is a bit spongy, but if I let off and step on them again, I get a good pedal. This started after I replaced the driver side rear shoes about 2 weeks ago. Before that all was good, and here's what I know:
1-I didn't crack the system open when I replaced the shoes.
2-Shoes were installed correctly.
3-No leaks, and fluid level is good.
4-Rear shoes are adjusted properly (I checked them for for wear).
wear.
5-No uneven braking or pull to one side or the other.
When I did the research, my symptoms pointed to a bad booster check valve. The only other thing I could think of is the new shoes need to 'bed in".
Sorry, but there is absolutely no way that a bad booster check valve can cause a spongy pedal, period. The only thing it can do is cause the booster not to provide boost, so a hard pedal as noted. Sorry, but this is where learning the theory behind how the systems in your car work allow you to correctly diagnose problems (as well as being able to filter the online bullshit).
Your symptoms indicate a bad M/C. When the internal seals go bad, leakage is dependent on piston velocity. Push slowly and the pedal is spongy or goes to the floor. Push quickly or in rapid succession and the seals can't leak fast enough so the pedal feels hard.
May 7th, 2024, 09:46 AM
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May 7th, 2024, 09:52 AM
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And once again proving why "research" on the interwebs is the fastest way to get incorrect information.
Sorry, but there is absolutely no way that a bad booster check valve can cause a spongy pedal, period. The only thing it can do is cause the booster not to provide boost, so a hard pedal as noted. Sorry, but this is where learning the theory behind how the systems in your car work allow you to correctly diagnose problems (as well as being able to filter the online bullshit).
Your symptoms indicate a bad M/C. When the internal seals go bad, leakage is dependent on piston velocity. Push slowly and the pedal is spongy or goes to the floor. Push quickly or in rapid succession and the seals can't leak fast enough so the pedal feels hard.
Sorry, but there is absolutely no way that a bad booster check valve can cause a spongy pedal, period. The only thing it can do is cause the booster not to provide boost, so a hard pedal as noted. Sorry, but this is where learning the theory behind how the systems in your car work allow you to correctly diagnose problems (as well as being able to filter the online bullshit).
Your symptoms indicate a bad M/C. When the internal seals go bad, leakage is dependent on piston velocity. Push slowly and the pedal is spongy or goes to the floor. Push quickly or in rapid succession and the seals can't leak fast enough so the pedal feels hard.
May 7th, 2024, 12:53 PM
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You have zero external leakage. The fluid goes around the seals, so back to where it was originally instead of being forced in front of the seals and creating pressure in the system.
May 7th, 2024, 01:29 PM
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And once again proving why "research" on the interwebs is the fastest way to get incorrect information.
Sorry, but there is absolutely no way that a bad booster check valve can cause a spongy pedal, period. The only thing it can do is cause the booster not to provide boost, so a hard pedal as noted. Sorry, but this is where learning the theory behind how the systems in your car work allow you to correctly diagnose problems (as well as being able to filter the online bullshit).
Your symptoms indicate a bad M/C. When the internal seals go bad, leakage is dependent on piston velocity. Push slowly and the pedal is spongy or goes to the floor. Push quickly or in rapid succession and the seals can't leak fast enough so the pedal feels hard.
Sorry, but there is absolutely no way that a bad booster check valve can cause a spongy pedal, period. The only thing it can do is cause the booster not to provide boost, so a hard pedal as noted. Sorry, but this is where learning the theory behind how the systems in your car work allow you to correctly diagnose problems (as well as being able to filter the online bullshit).
Your symptoms indicate a bad M/C. When the internal seals go bad, leakage is dependent on piston velocity. Push slowly and the pedal is spongy or goes to the floor. Push quickly or in rapid succession and the seals can't leak fast enough so the pedal feels hard.
May 7th, 2024, 01:30 PM
#28
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Your M/C is leaking INTERNALLY. Keep in mind that the piston seals need to push fluid from the reservoir into the lines. If the seals are bad, that fluid just stays in the reservoir (or worse, goes out the back of the M/C, into the booster).
May 7th, 2024, 02:45 PM
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May 7th, 2024, 02:50 PM
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May 7th, 2024, 04:30 PM
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Maybe it's coincidence that they started leaking at the same time you replaced the shoes? Then maybe it's not the seals leaking? These things are hard to diagnose over the internet.
May 7th, 2024, 05:38 PM
#34
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Understood, that's why I'm starting with the easy stuff first. It took me all of 5 minutes to change the check valve.
May 7th, 2024, 05:48 PM
#35
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Joe, if it were leaking into the booster, wouldn't the fluid be low in the master cylinder?
May 7th, 2024, 06:55 PM
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May 7th, 2024, 07:16 PM
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Yes, but initially it can leak internally before it gets bad enough to leak into the booster.
May 7th, 2024, 07:32 PM
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I haven't had a chance to check yet...weather hasn't been in my favor.
I've driven it almost 300 miles since the issue started, and the fluid level hasn't changed. Would that be enough to determine of it's leaking into the booster?
May 15th, 2024, 07:09 PM
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Update
So after replacing the valve and driving to work last Saturday, it seems to be doing better. Maybe it was the valve, or maybe the new shoes are finally starting to "bed in". I plan in taking it out for drive tomorrow and then I'll make the final call.
So after replacing the valve and driving to work last Saturday, it seems to be doing better. Maybe it was the valve, or maybe the new shoes are finally starting to "bed in". I plan in taking it out for drive tomorrow and then I'll make the final call.
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