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Very nice, love the fat lip on those rims. What size tires are on those rims? They look like 40-series (245/40/17s in front and 275/40/17s in back).
Thank you, yes they are 245/45 ZR17 front and 275/40 ZR17 in rear BfGoodrich Sport Comp 2's
They are right around 26" tall when I put them next to my 225/70 14's they are the same height
Last edited by Lalo442; April 23rd, 2020 at 06:00 AM.
Reason: Added info
Just a heads up on those Year One 17s. I learned the hard way biggest Baer Brake that would fit was a SS4 on an 11" rotors. The Track4 and SS4 on 13" rotors do not fit.
Just a heads up on those Year One 17s. I learned the hard way biggest Baer Brake that would fit was a SS4 on an 11" rotors. The Track4 and SS4 on 13" rotors do not fit.
That sucks. Any pictures of the inside of the wheels? Inside dimensions? Where the issue is with the bigger brakes? This post is definitely slowing me down about considering these wheel as a way to get bigger brakes.
No, no photos or measurements available for you. Template showed they should fit (we triple checked and even talked to Baer), but when installing the outer corners of the calipers hit the secondary lip further into the wheel. Purchased the SS4s thinking they'd be small enough clear to clear the wheels (after again checking the template dimensions) but they hit as well, just further in.
To those interested. I too had purchased those same Year One SSII wheels (staggered width front and back) in September 2019 after wanting more breaking power than a basic rear disc conversion was going to provide. Doing that meant larger wheels.
Just a heads up these are brushed/polished aluminum to look like chrome, but they also to have a chromed version. But they look great, so good in fact that I'm torn on painting them the body color (Viking Blue)...I will say that I do somewhat regret not going with 8" all around so I can run a common spare and rotate tires.
Tires - Nittos all around Front: 255/50R17, Rear: 275/50R17. I wanted side wall and some bulge to give it as close to a classic look as possible. Mine look very similar to the photos above.
Brakes - Front: Baer Brakes Track 4 front brake kit (A body, 13" rotors). Rear: Baer IronSport rear brake package. (Ironsports were cheaper than the Track4s).
Did you have any rubbing issues (mainly at the rear near the exhaust) with the 275/50r/17's? I bought a staggered set of these and would like to run the larger rear tire, but it looks like I may have interference with the exhaust. It's a '69 "S" with 2.5" Pypes system out the rear with stock rear suspension.
Where do they sell these ones at? I am looking at ordering the Silver SSII 17" rims this weekend from YearOne but those ones are really sweet. I like these ones you posted better for my 1972 Cutlass. Modern look to an old classic.
Where do they sell these ones at? I am looking at ordering the Silver SSII 17" rims this weekend from YearOne but those ones are really sweet. I like these ones you posted better for my 1972 Cutlass. Modern look to an old classic.
I have a Question for the OP of this thread - Same as what was asked last, did you have fitment issues with clearing the rear tail pies as they come around the tank running that tire ? 275/45/17 ?
I have a Question for the OP of this thread - Same as what was asked last, did you have fitment issues with clearing the rear tail pies as they come around the tank running that tire ? 275/45/17 ?
Rear clearance - My 275/50/17s fit without issue from the start and I don't have stock exhaust sizing or ride height which should have made these wheels more of an issue. My rear is lowered an inch and I am running 2.5" Pypes Exhaust. The Pypes system is routed just like the stock pipes but I'm guessing exact routing for many is slightly different since some say they don't have issues and others do. My setup still has about an inch and a half lateral distance to my exhaust. As I've discussed with others I think they are right about the wheel well. My wheel well could fit a much larger tire with the right backspacing on the wheel and some slight rework the exhaust routing. If you have the ability to use one, a minimal spacer could likely address the exhaust issue and perhaps look a little better too.
These wheels from YO are only stock style 17s currently in production but they're not perfect. A higher quality wheel (primarily with design) would be able to fit the larger calipers designed for 17" wheels, as many 17" wheels can. This wheel is likely focused on fitting brakes that would typically be paired with 15" wheels. My impression is that they're geared ttowards the stock and 15" crowd that's not intent on major brake modifications. One last note, the brushed aluminum looks nice, but I do wish I would have spent the slight extra $ for the chromed to give it a more correct appearance.
Love the wheels though and get lots of compliments.
Can only give my feedback on what I have. Baer's conversion kit does fit and I'd imagine other kits like Wildwood do as well, you just can go crazy with huge calipers. I have 11" rotors with the SS4 calipers in the front and irons sports (11.25" I think) on the rear with room to spare. I'm not sure how those dimensions may compare to c5/c6. I'd guess there's dimensions posted for both that could be compared.
As a side note, make sure you have the right proportioning valve for disc brakes or buy an adjustable for better fine tuning. You'll be upping the piston bore area, so you'll also consider an appropriate master cylinder/vacuum booster combo. Ideally you'd match the percentage increase in caliper piston area to the master cylinder piston area increase to achieve a similar pedal response to the original calipers. Usually this means going to a smaller master cylinder, and depending on how crazy you go, improving your brake booster (such as a large dual diaphragm). Many people upgrade just the rotors and calipers usually with poor results, because they didn't consider the other components or do the math.
Can only give my feedback on what I have. Baer's conversion kit does fit and I'd imagine other kits like Wildwood do as well, you just can go crazy with huge calipers. I have 11" rotors with the SS4 calipers in the front and irons sports (11.25" I think) on the rear with room to spare. I'm not sure how those dimensions may compare to c5/c6. I'd guess there's dimensions posted for both that could be compared.
As a side note, make sure you have the right proportioning valve for disc brakes or buy an adjustable for better fine tuning. You'll be upping the piston bore area, so you'll also consider an appropriate master cylinder/vacuum booster combo. Ideally you'd match the percentage increase in caliper piston area to the master cylinder piston area increase to achieve a similar pedal response to the original calipers. Usually this means going to a smaller master cylinder, and depending on how crazy you go, improving your brake booster (such as a large dual diaphragm). Many people upgrade just the rotors and calipers usually with poor results, because they didn't consider the other components or do the math.
Thanks for the response. I used the template from KORE3 and c5/6 325mm kit will not fit with these wheels. I am thinking I might just get some wilwood d52 calipers and better pads for now. Next step will be figuring out rear discs but the list of things to do on the car is already long enough without getting heavy into brakes. Next I need to figure out what suspension mods to lower the car more.
I also purchased these wheels recently and am now worried I cant upgrade brakes.
Has anyone fit c5/c6 brakes with these wheels? What other options for upgrade do I have?
FYI i went 17x9 w/ 275/40r17s. Have not finished test fitting/turning wheel lock to lock.
Where are you located? I have the KORE3 C5 brake kit on my car, I wouldn't mind pulling a wheel off in the Spring to see if yours clear the brakes. I'm in Chicago suburbs.
...I am thinking I might just get some wilwood d52 calipers and better pads for now. Next step will be figuring out rear discs but the list of things to do on the car is already long enough without getting heavy into brakes. Next I need to figure out what suspension mods to lower the car more.
FYI: Early to mid 2000 era Blazers used a 11.6" rear rotor that should fit inside those 17" rims. I mocked these parts up a few years ago and it seemed like they might even fit inside some 15" SSIII factory rims. The Blazer parts will require a shim behind the backing plate to center the rotor in the caliper and a wheel bearing spacer to compensate for the Blazer's thicker backing plate. Get a 2WD set-up as the 4WD parts use a deeper rotor hat that doesn't line-up well with the stock width BOP rear axle flange. They also incorporated a drum-in-hat style parking brake that many of the performance brake kits lack. The drum-in-hat parking brake is less prone to adjustment issues than the ratchet style calipers found in some of the classic car rear disc retrofit kits.
...The Blazer parts will require a shim behind the backing plate to center the rotor in the caliper and a wheel bearing spacer to compensate for the Blazer's thicker backing plate. Get a 2WD set-up as the 4WD parts use a deeper rotor hat that doesn't line-up well with the stock width BOP rear axle flange.
Rodney
hi Rodney,
I hope im not hijacking the post, but i have a few questions if you could help me with.
1- I understand the shim behind the backing plate but I don't understand the wheel bearing spacer? Is it a shim placed on the axle before seal and bearing are pressed on the axle so that seal and bearing seat properly and don't come out of the diff too far? Sorry but I just can't visualize it.
2- is there an easy way to identify the 2wd rotors from the 4wd rotors?
thanks
I appreciate it, paul
Last edited by OldOldsLover; February 18th, 2022 at 01:42 AM.
I hope the OP doesn't feel like we've hijacked his thread; this brake info seems relevant to 17" wheel fitment and could be helpful to others who might search and find his thread.
Paul:
The blazer backing plate is comprised of a 3/8" thick aluminum plate that supports the parking brake mechanism and & caliper and a separate metal dust shield. The stock Olds drum brake backing plates are only 1/8" thick. The bearing spacer makes up for the thickness difference and fits inside the axle tube to hold the bearing and seal behind the retaining plate. Follow the link below to my build thread and look at posts #68 & #79 to see the Blazer parts I used and the placement of the shim & spacer.
Where are you located? I have the KORE3 C5 brake kit on my car, I wouldn't mind pulling a wheel off in the Spring to see if yours clear the brakes. I'm in Chicago suburbs.
Appreciate the offer, but utilizing the template on KORE3 site I determined they would not fit these wheels.
Originally Posted by cdrod
FYI: Early to mid 2000 era Blazers used a 11.6" rear rotor that should fit inside those 17" rims. I mocked these parts up a few years ago and it seemed like they might even fit inside some 15" SSIII factory rims. The Blazer parts will require a shim behind the backing plate to center the rotor in the caliper and a wheel bearing spacer to compensate for the Blazer's thicker backing plate. Get a 2WD set-up as the 4WD parts use a deeper rotor hat that doesn't line-up well with the stock width BOP rear axle flange. They also incorporated a drum-in-hat style parking brake that many of the performance brake kits lack. The drum-in-hat parking brake is less prone to adjustment issues than the ratchet style calipers found in some of the classic car rear disc retrofit kits.
Rodney
Bookmarked your thread to reference later. KORE3 mentioned in email they have an option to use c3 rotor. "These kits use the Ø11.75” x 1.28” C3 rotors paired with either the OE C3 4-piston calipers, or aftermarket Wilwood D8-4 or D8-6 C3 aluminum calipers, which tend to be much lighter than their cast iron counterparts and have an improved piston/seal design." those wilwoood calipers would look great but idk if performance is worth it over d52 with good pads. Just need to figure out the rear. Maybe blazer setup pairs decent with either setup, dont know yet.
2 in lower springs for rear and about to order tall 2" drop spindle. Hope it sits how I want after that.
I just picked up a set of these om a black friday deal. Staggered 17 x 8 and 17 x 9.
I have to say that I am quite impressed. They look way better in person than in the crappy photos online at Year One.
Quality and paint look awesome. These will be going on my Rallye 350 I am restoring. I will paint at least the center area yellow.
Pat
These are beautiful. I use the VN501 from American Racing which are modeled after the SS1's. I have 17x8 with 4.5" backspace on all four, but I am considering going to 17x9 on the rear. I may have to consider 5" backspace. Do you know the backspace of your 17X9?
17x9 with 275/40r17 square. BMR rear 2" drop spings with bilstein shocks, BMR front upper and lower a arms, g comp tall 2" drop spindle, UMI stock height springs, bilstein front shocks. Need to get cetner caps off and get it out of garage. Hope the front settles a bit.
April 23rd, 2020, 05:57 AM
