When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I started a thread in general discussion about my recent project. I have had some time to look through everything and I’m surprised at how original this car is. I am going to restore this car but i dont want to over restore it, i want to drive it! I have the original engine but should i put it in a corner and put another small block in it? I want to keep the value in the car but i dont want to be afraid to drive it either. Has anyone done a chalk mark restoration and still drive the car? Also I’m curious if my car had a painted roof from the factory. It has the original red paint with what looks like a white painted roof. I didn’t know this was an option?
I have the original engine but should i put it in a corner and put another small block in it? I want to keep the value in the car but i dont want to be afraid to drive it either.
Congratulations on your new acquisition. Such a cool car !
Obviously a 1964 442 is worth a small fortune when mint and original. Interestingly if you look at a value guide like NADA, you will notice your model is given even more value when you add a larger stronger engine like a 394. Although they also give it more value with a 290 HP 330 which doesn't make sense...
Still if you restore and keep the original drive-train tucked away and make a sideways or upward move while staying Olds engine I doubt you can lose. That peace of mind that you are not risking wear and tear on the original engine will likely allow you to really enjoy your car.
Interestingly if you look at a value guide like NADA, you will notice your model is given even more value when you add a larger stronger engine like a 394.
The price guide is not suggesting that at all. It's a mistake done by people who don't know any better.
unless you are planning to campaign the car weekly at the local racetrack & set records, do yourself a favor and install everything you know to be original to the car "in/on the car"
with the repair skills available today, there is almost nothing you could do that would render the original block useless
***** it would be more probable that separated components would be lost to the car forever a few years down the road
C Interestingly if you look at a value guide like NADA, you will notice your model is given even more value when you add a larger stronger engine like a 394. Although they also give it more value with a 290 HP 330 which doesn't make sense...
Considering that you can't install a 394 in a 64 Cutlass without a lot of work, this is yet another example of why those price guides are total BS.
Thank you for the info on the cowl tag. I would not be drag racing this car, i have the 72 for that. I do have the original 350 that was in the 72 that i could put in the 64 but being as i have so many of the original parts i also think it would be a shame not to use them. I plan on using the stock exhaust manifolds either way but i dont think i am going to be too concerned with using a stock exhaust. I do believe i will keep the original paint colors.
unless you are planning to campaign the car weekly at the local racetrack & set records, do yourself a favor and install everything you know to be original to the car "in/on the car"
with the repair skills available today, there is almost nothing you could do that would render the original block useless
***** it would be more probable that separated components would be lost to the car forever a few years down the road
I agree with this 100%. Once you start using "non original" parts, the question of "authenticity" of the car rears its head. Even if you claim to have all the original parts, you have created a doubt that will spread.
the cowl tag would indicate the original color combo L-C
L = regal mist metallic body paint
C = provincial white roof paint 947 = parchment interior
can't comment on what olds did in 64 but my 66 chevelle the "c" letter would be paint and color. a number say "2"notes vinyl and color black believe white vinyl is number 1
can't comment on what olds did in 64 but my 66 chevelle the "c" letter would be paint and color. a number say "2"notes vinyl and color black believe white vinyl is number 1
Year, manufacturer, and manufacturing plant ALL matter, as all were different, so what Chevy did on a 1966 Chevelle may or may not have any relevance to a 1964 Cutlass. In this case, vinyl wasn't even an option on a 1964 Cutlass, so that's irrelevant. Letters were used for paint color in 1964, numbers for convertible top color, which also is irrelevant for the OP's car. A factory two tone car should also have the ACC code for the body piercings for the chrome trim that separated the colors.
I pulled the trans out of the car today. These wires were cut, I am assuming this is for the reverse lights? Also what is the best method for cleaning the aluminum case for this trans? I plan on pressure washing it with some simple green but I’m open to any suggestions. Thank you.
yes that is the back up light switch. I would use laquer thinner or brake clean to clean the trans before I carefully power wash it so as not to get any water in it
The trans is cleaning up well. I’m just using a wire brush, brake clean, and simple green. I’m pleased with how good of shape this car is in. I’m looking to start ordering suspension parts soon. I hope to get a couple other projects done so I can get this one on the hoist and separate the body and frame.
I have a 66 ss396 70 k miles all match numbers, and highly original, excellent mechanical and cosmetic shape, but not show quality. I drive it all the time , I am careful not to stress it, or do pop the clutch take offs, but is the most fun ever to drive. feels like I am in a 2 year old top condition used 66 car in 1968 with 70 k miles.
I would not restore it to concours as I would no longer be able to enjoy it.
if I were you I would keep it original all the way and enjoy using it.
I have a 50 88 2dr sedan that is all original and runs and drives excellent. it is un restored , has sweet patina on paint , no rust through. body straight and solid. and inside is decent t and has stains, on cloth, but is still drivable. I plan to drive it as is, such a joy. it has orig chalk marks on cowl will leave as is.
Another example of cruise night and Barrett Jackson gobbledygook that I HATE. If the factory markings were chalk they would go missing the first time the car got any kind of wet. The markings actually are crayon or grease pencil both being about the same waxy material in yellow or white. Grease pencils use refills about the size of glass fuse. The larger 'crayons' are those some of us recall used in tire service. Both seem actually more greasy or waxy compared to children's edible crayons, kid's crayons also wash out of clothing in the laundry, where the others generally do not. These are spotted in assembly line candid photos in various makes and vintages of US car production. Police used (use) chalk to mark tires in parking enforcement, specifically so it would quickly rub off or wash away with no trace.
The muncie you show in the photos above is not for the 64 442. At least most of it is not. The main case number you have is 3885010 which is a 1 inch bore case found in 66-67. The 64 442 had a 7/8 inch bore with case number 3851325. The side cover should be number 3831707 which has the non-hat style pivot pin. Your sidecover is 3884685 which was found in 66-70. The tail housing is correct for 64. I say drive it and enjoy.
Could you provide me with the data plate info and the VIN? I’d like to cross reference with a list of known original 64 442s. Thanks. PM me if that’s easier.
Congrats on the purchase. Keep the car SBO powered but build a SBO stroker using a readily available 64-76 350 block and one more Mark Remel's 4.00" stroker cranks and a good flowing set of iron heads. You'll have a great sleeper. Good luck.
Congrats on the purchase. Keep the car SBO powered but build a SBO stroker using a readily available 64-76 350 block and one more Mark Remel's 4.00" stroker cranks and a good flowing set of iron heads. You'll have a great sleeper. Good luck.
Thanks, it will stay sbo powered. I have the original 350 out of my 72 that I plan to build for it. The #8 cylinder is destroyed so I’m going to have to Sleave the block. I plan on porting the heads and install larger valves in the heads. I’m still debating on the rotating assembly but I have time to figure that out. I’m hoping the body shop is ready for the car in the next month. I need to start ordering chassis parts so I’m ready for when the body goes in the shop. It’s gonna be a long summer waiting for the car to get back from paint.
I do not, I purchased this car from the guy who got it from the estate of the original owner. This car had been sitting in a barn since 1971. I would imagine he broke the original trans drag racing. I found an old isky cam card along with instructions for an offy intake. It had crude exhaust cutout and a electric fuel pump on it. I wonder how hard it would be to find correct parts?
I do not, I purchased this car from the guy who got it from the estate of the original owner. This car had been sitting in a barn since 1971. I would imagine he broke the original trans drag racing. I found an old isky cam card along with instructions for an offy intake. It had crude exhaust cutout and a electric fuel pump on it. I wonder how hard it would be to find correct parts?
The muncie cases from 1964 show up often. there is a manufacturing month and day stamped on the case.
I’m getting a little work done on the car, doing some disassembly. I’m going to be ordering all brake and suspension parts soon. I’m hoping to have the body off the chassis in the next month. Then the frame and chassis will get blasted and painted, meanwhile i will be dropping off the 350 for a sleeve and boring .30 over. I’m looking at placing a order from Eastwood for chassis, suspension paint and seam sealer. I would like to have all parts and supplies on hand when the time comes for reassembly. I’m looking for a source for brake and fuel lines, after reading reviews i will not be purchasing from inline tube. Any suggestions?
Getting a little work done. I went with a wilwood disk brake kit so I’m not adding a lot of weight. I used Moog rubber bushings and tall ball joints. The tie rod ends will get replaced by the alignment shop when it goes in for alignment. Trying to decide on shocks while i wait on the machine shop to get the crank drilled from the 330 I purchased.
So has the dual master cylinder and 350 block, using like logic. He could always store all the original swapped parts, for the day he sells it as a museum entry
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Considering that you can't install a 394 in a 64 Cutlass without a lot of work, this is yet another example of why those price guides are total BS.
Even suggesting such nonsense to those who don't know any better is enough reason to dismiss such publications in their entirety. Getting someone to drop a 394 into a modern B body seems like playing an expensive practical joke
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; January 17th, 2021 at 12:08 AM.
Beautiful car with loads of potential, but I can't help thinking that the disc brake swap, while enhancing its drivability, will damage its value.
I have purchased new reproduction parts for the original drums in case i decide to sell down the road(not likely). There will be a few modifications to enhance safety and handling but nothing that cant be unbolted. I’m not looking to do restomod but i do plan on driving this car often as i can. My daughter will learn how to drive a manual transmission in this car so it will need good brakes.
I want to keep the original feel of the car as much as possible.it will remain a small block, manual trans car and i will be keeping the stock 3:23 rear gears. I used rubber replacement bushings and will be keeping the stock sway bars. It should be a fun, capable car for road trips.
...My daughter will learn how to drive a manual transmission in this car so it will need good brakes...
You'll, in that case, will also need a good transmission. If possible, why not find some old beater to use as a learner car, instead of a valuable classic?
January 13th, 2020, 06:36 PM
