68Tom

I'm in need of the chrome trim that goes around the window frame and "B" pillar on a 68 Sports Coupe. Anyone know where I might be able to find it or does anyone have it? Having some difficulty locating it, as it's not the easiest thing to describe for a search.

70Post

Finding it isn't easy:

1)As you mention, it's hard to describe and at least on the internet, people hesitate to respond to posts that are unclear or involve "oddball" or less sought after parts.

2)More importantly, if it's the door window frame trim you need then it's extremely hard to remove the stuff without ruining it. It's aluminum and once you twist/distort it you are pretty much out of luck. Sure, it can probably be fixed but at what cost if you have to use a pro to straighten it.

So....you either have to find NOS (HIGH $$$$ in my experience) or find someone that can actually 1) find the stuff...not real common in salvage yards....and 2)Can remove it without screwing it up.

The stuff was just "popped" on there at the factory but reversing that process is not as easily done.

Out of the 3 pieces on the door frame (I'm assuming you don't have the optional aluminum window ledge mouldings that hold the outer window sweepers...those are easy to remove) the one that angles down the front of the window frame (parallel to the A pillar) can sometimes be removed by hand(s). This is the last piece to go on and I think is the loosest fitting. I've removed a few of those pieces by hand...may need a slight tap along the inside edge that wraps around the top of the window frame...tap against a piece of wood held against this lip.

The other pieces....good luck. You frankly would be better off finding the doors with the trim yourself, getting them home and then being able to take your time to get the stuff off. Find the worst doors you can...just with decent alum trim.

If I knew of a post coupe around here I'd say "let's make a deal!" but it is extremely time consuming to remove the those other two pieces from the door.

Try running "want ads" and ask for GOOD pics so you can identify any distortion or twisting. If someone says it has a little twist in it but you'll be able to fix that easily---MOVE ON TO THE NEXT PERSON. Dings, and little dents...no problem, longer twists and distortion...pretty much renders the stuff junk.

One positive point is I think you can use the trim off any 68-71/2 (whenever they stopped making the posts) GM Abody 2 door.

70Post

One other thing...us "post people" recognize certain words/descriptions. Using something as simple as "Post Coupe Door/Window Frame Trim" should get a "post person's" attention.

Another way to avoid confusion...it's aluminum (not chromed steel or stainless steel) and it's anodized.

As far as restoring the pieces.... they can be re-anodized or you can just strip off the anodizing, take out dings, etc and sand and polish/buff them as shiny as you desire. Then it becomes a "maintenence" item if you leave them bare...periodic application of alum mag wheel polish. Some people strip/straighten/polish/buff and then spray them with a clearcoat so they won't have to deal with periodic polishing.

buds68a77

Tom,

I am about to start doing what you , hopefully started and finished last year, the post side trim removal/ replacing. Did you run into much difficulty r/r ing any of it?
Any "don't do it this way" tips?
Any "that was easy's"?

Thanks,

Bud

68Tom

Hi Bud--

When I got my car, it did not have the aluminum post trim on it, so sadly, I cannot give you any pointers. However, I will say, be very very careful, as it is IMPOSSIBLE to find this trim and it's not being reproduced. If you're not 100% sure you can do a good job of it, it'd almost be worth getting someone who's experienced in this sort of job to remove it for you. I know Eastwood has a professional removal kit that consists of plastic removal tools so as to lessen the chance of damaging the trim. Might be worth looking into.

buds68a77

Tom,

Had NO real trouble taking chrome off around windows. First was to remove the window channel in the back qtr glass removing screws in top channel THEN REMOVE OR MOVE THIN FOAM GASKET to reveal two more screws and top trim drops out freely. This is the one that is always F/U'd and the easiest to remove.
I took a piece of pine and a plastic mallet and struck all the other trim along the edges to brake loose any FACTORY APPLIED ADHESIVE, then tapped the short edge of the trim lips (there is a long edge to catch the metal being covered and a short edge to snap over the other edge) with a thin 4" wide piece of wood on the straight runs to pop off each piece, narrow wood pieces on curved trim pieces. The rear qtr. vert. post piece was held on by 3 clips., but still popped off.
The door front piece was finessed loose at the top and slid up the door, the top piece popped off w/wood. Back piece pops off next.
F/R windows use std tool. Hood rear edge w/wood and mallet from under the hood to start the work, then from the top when movement has given enough reveal to work with.
Fender peak/crown trim was different. You can reach the middle fasteners but now the WORK starts. Them plastic bulges have to go.
Remove both wheel wells to gain access. Brite light, 1/4 drive, and loosener spray gets the job done.
On the doors, remove 2 end screws and pop trim off 5 plastic pieces.
Trim under the window requires more WORK, the back seats and the inside trim panels mudt be removed to access plastic nuts on end studs and same door plastic clips 3 ea. need to be popped off.
442#s need the bottom of the fender loosened to get at or real skinny arms.
The top pinch drip edge was also just taped off.
Bag and tag all pieces w/fasteners.

Bud