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I am thinking of converting to EFI. I don't have an evaporation control system like they came out with in 1970. My current carb, with the natural aspiration, has a very strong gas smell. Does converting to EFI help with the amount of natural aspiration.
I am assuming i need to install an aftermarket intake manifold. Is this true and if so does anyone have a brand recommendation?
The smell is absolutely narrowed down to the natural aspiration of the carb. There are no leaks, or other issues as i have checked everything and replaced anything that was suspect.
There are two routes you can go with EFI conversion.
You can use what some term an injection carb that replaces your QuadraJet. This is a bolt-on that can be used with any 4-bbl manifold, including the one currently on your car. Here's a link with some information, https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...on/atomic_efi/ You'll need a high pressure fuel pump either in your tank or in a stand-alone sump accessory such as RobbMc makes, https://www.robbmcperformance.com/pr...owersurge.html
You can go to Multi-Point Fuel Injection (MPFI) that involves welding ports into a manifold to accommodate fuel injectors above each intake valve. Holley also makes basic systems for this--but on an Olds, it would involve your getting some of the parts done by vendors such as Wilson Manifolds that people on here can recommend to you.
The fuel in either one of these is in a completely sealed system, so your current source of fuel smell will be eliminated.
The Holley Sniper is a good option. It’s not a true bolt on and go like advertised, it does require some tuning. I did the swap on my 69 2 years ago, there is no fuel smell anymore. I used a Holley fuel tank with a built in pump, it works well but is pretty loud
I think Holley has come out with a spread-bore option for those running a factory intake manifold.
Thanks guys! That is the exactly the news i was hoping to hear. They call it a throttle body EFI but I think the "injection carb" terms makes more sense.
I am thinking of going with system as it seems straightforward and compact. https://fitechefi.com/products/30021/
Team Chevelle forum has covered both FITech and Sniper extensively in bunch of different threads. Here is a good example FItech vs Sniper, plenty of other threads too.
FYI some of the guys are buying Sniper to replace their FiTech.
For my new build (Chevelle) I'm going with Sniper.
Thanks as well...but now i am more confused. I am simply a cruiser and have no plan to race. So with that in mind I think it may be best to go with a simple less costly system.
Does anyone think putting this on the car "devalues" it when you go to sell?
I know a purist would not like it but i plan to save all parts so a buyer could always convert back to stock.
I know a purist would not like it but i plan to save all parts so a buyer could always convert back to stock.
Then you should have no worries. I would think it would increase the asking price. A potential buyer could always restore the car to the OE carburetor and sell the EFI system.
I went with the Holley Sniper because of the online complaints with the Fi-tech system. However, it isn't plug and play as the ads would have you believe. I put it on my '68 442 4-speed convertible. First of all, my 400 ci engine has a wide bore intake manifold, and the Sniper kit has a small bore setup, which means you have to buy an adapter plate to fit the manifold. The deluxe kit comes with an electric fuel pump and high pressure fuel hose, so that's the way I went. Then I found that the throttle tip-in was way too abrupt, so I found out that Holley makes a bracket, which I think is called the Demon that you can bolt on to the throttle body to eliminate the abruptness, but then it hits the bottom of the air cleaner, so you have to get a spacer so the Demon bracket will clear the air cleaner, and then hope the air cleaner won't hit the bottom of the hood (mine didn't). Then I found that the Demon bracket hits a choke rod which wouldn't let the engine idle below 2200 rpm. So I got out my trusty Dremel tool and notched out the Demon bracket where it hit the choke rod, and finally it works like it's supposed to. Holley gives you a little computer screen so you can tune the system, and now my car finally starts every time!
I would really like to know why Holley decided to use a different throttle bracket instead of what has been on every Holley carb since who knows when. Especially since they advertise it as s bolt on carb swap to EFI.
You can easily fabricate an extension. All it does is move the throttle cable mounting point farther from the pivot point to add a little leverage.
Yes, I got my problem fixed, but it took me awhile to figure out what was causing the abrupt throttle tip-in. And matt69olds is correct; it just took an extension on the throttle linkage to give you more leverage in moving the throttle. BUT, I had to notch out the extension because it hit one of the choke rods. I guess all's well that ends well.
I don't think the extension matt69olds shows is the same one I used, and I can remember me not using that one because it referred to MoPar application.
I don't think the extension matt69olds shows is the same one I used, and I can remember me not using that one because it referred to MoPar application.
Ill take a pic of the part I used. I don’t have the package anymore, so unless there is a part number stamped on it I’m guessing. I did use rivets instead of the included bolts, the bolts were a little to close to other linkage for my comfort.
June 13th, 2019, 08:19 AM
Do you have a link to the part that fixed the problem?
