One tooth off?
#1
One tooth off?
So after replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my '72 Supreme, my buddy and I set #1 cylinder to TDC and dropped the distributor in. I noticed that after we dialed it in, the distributor was in the 1 o'clock-7o'clock position instead of the 12-6 position like before. Timing at idle is around 12 deg and around 30-32 at 2500 rpm. Once it reaches that point, it won't advance anymore. She idles good and holds steady through the rpm range with no issues, but there is a problem on the low end.
She's a little flat on takeoff when I nail it. I left work today and jumped on it and it popped once through the carb then smoothed out, but seemed kinda lazy getting up to speed. Now, the top end is a different story. Definitely more snappy, and I seem to be getting better mileage.
I'm running a DUI HEI street/strip unit, and it has done well since I bought the car 6 years ago. I will, however, be replacing the cap, wires and coil this week.
I cant rotate the distributor anymore to the left because the advance canister is hitting the firewall. Once I replace the wires, cap, rotor and coil this week, will that help with the takeoff, or do I need to move the distributor 1 tooth to the left?
She's a little flat on takeoff when I nail it. I left work today and jumped on it and it popped once through the carb then smoothed out, but seemed kinda lazy getting up to speed. Now, the top end is a different story. Definitely more snappy, and I seem to be getting better mileage.
I'm running a DUI HEI street/strip unit, and it has done well since I bought the car 6 years ago. I will, however, be replacing the cap, wires and coil this week.
I cant rotate the distributor anymore to the left because the advance canister is hitting the firewall. Once I replace the wires, cap, rotor and coil this week, will that help with the takeoff, or do I need to move the distributor 1 tooth to the left?
#3
#5
Gotcha. Does it sound like my symptoms necessitate adjusting the timing, or will the new wires and cap help?
#6
If the initial and total timing are where they should be, then restabbing the distributor and resetting the timing will result in everything being the same as it is now, just the distributor housing moved a bit. It won’t have any affect on how the engine operates since the timing will be exactly the same.
#7
If the vac advance is hitting the fire wall, and keeping you from getting the right timing, you may want to move. Check your initial timing and total, see if it is correct? Look for total between 34-38, if you can't get it move it. Like the other post said, if this numbers are correct, you won't change much, just the location look.
#8
If the vac advance is hitting the fire wall, and keeping you from getting the right timing, you may want to move. Check your initial timing and total, see if it is correct? Look for total between 34-38, if you can't get it move it. Like the other post said, if this numbers are correct, you won't change much, just the location look.
#18
Dave - I'd make an adjustment to correct your throttle/accelerator cable. That cable is most likely incorrect for your application - appears too short or perhaps of the incorrect material (I don't know).
The throttle/accelerator cable should be entering the carburetor stand-off bracket from a straight forward head-on position. Your cable is significantly out of alignment. So much so, it's bending the stand-off and you can visibly see the grommet has substantial tension/force being applied to it. This should be corrected.
The throttle/accelerator cable should be entering the carburetor stand-off bracket from a straight forward head-on position. Your cable is significantly out of alignment. So much so, it's bending the stand-off and you can visibly see the grommet has substantial tension/force being applied to it. This should be corrected.
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