chasmo

I'm aligning the front and I have a 15/16th radiator core support bushing. I'm having to add a 1/2 in or more of shims to get a good gap. It had the square bushing which is 3/4 in. What's going on here? Is this acceptable? Thanks

Vintage Chief

I had to re-read the thread title - several times. You are NOT discussing the front-end alignment of the wheels/tires/tie-rods; but, instead you're talking about the radiator core alignment? Is that correct?

dc2x4drvr

I think the op is referring to the fender to door gap.

chasmo

Yes, I'm referring to the sheet metal gap for the doors. Sorry, if it wasn't clear.

chopolds

Was the rad support taken out? Or worked on at any time? I'm thinking there probably were thick steel washers along with the bushings, that may be missing. 2 of them at 3/16 or 1/4" thick would just about fix it. The factory also did not have any problems inserting additional shims to get alignment right.

oldcutlass

I fixed your title. Do you think the frame horns might have been tweaked in a past accident?

tiogatwister

So many things play into this gap (fender to door) if you flex the fender at the center of the wheel well by pulling outboard on the fender yo can change that gap by a large amount, I do not depend on the height of the rad support to set this gap but rather the feature lines on the vehicle. If you can get the fender bolted on the car by doing this sight down the door to fender line and see if the fender is truly low in the front or just sprung from being off the car. Just from my experience.

chasmo

Thanks to all. I bought this car in 1975. I tore to bare frame in 1976. I reassembled body, frame, and got it drive able. Life got in the way and car sit for a long time. The fender braces were never installed. I don't remember any shims at the core support, just the square factory bushings. I've been messing with the shimming the core support. I have good gaps at the fenders to doors, but several shims.

Post70

Did you get over this hump? Post some pics, shouldn't need that thick of shims.

dc2x4drvr

Question...all the bolts at firewall loose, any shims? If inner fender installed it would be loose. Check that core support is square, cross tape from firewall to core support..
Let us know..

chasmo

I'm taking pictures and measurements. As soon as, I figure out how get them off my phone. Then on to here, hopefully soon. Thanks to everyone. I'm getting old and would like to drive this car again

442man$

I found that signing in on phone then posting is easier way to get pics moved.But I’m tec challenged also.

chasmo

chasmo

Some numbers. Top of frame at core support; Driver 18 3/4" Pass 19"
Core support height; Driver 31 3/16' Pass 31 7/16'
Shims under core support; Driver 9/16' Might take a 1/16 t0 1/8 out too low back of fender Pass 7/16"
Top of fender at firewall shims; Driver 5/16" Pass 3/16"
The core support shims seem to be the right height. This height is the only way I can get the fender braces to line up.

Post70

Do the doors line up with the quarter panels? If not do that step first. Loosen all the front sheet metal bolts. The drivers fender needs to go down so add shims between the bottom of the cowl and the dogleg of the fender. Shim both bolts. Once the body line and stripes line up to the door and fender recheck the vertical gap between the door and fender. If your happy with the door to fender gaps check out the fender to hood gaps. If your measurements are a 1/4” off from square it could be the fender to hood gaps could benefit from pulling the front end over 1/8”. 1/4” sounds like a lot but if you ever utilize all 500lb’s of torque things will flex that much. If the hood and fenders align with each other as well as the doors, tighten everything up except the radiator support to frame, and the two fender braces behind the wheels. The next step you might want to use as step two after you loosen up the sheet metal bolts. It will probably help move the fender down. Use a bottle jack under the front frame rail and slowly jack up and observe if it tightens the gap between the core support and frame or moves the fender back. My guess is the frame has drooped in the front but with a little help up will be ok once everything is back aligned and tightened up. These vehicles remind me of their original owners bodies. Gravity and abuse over the years makes everything sag.

hotrod442

Is the engine/transmission in the chassis at this point? And is the weight of the chassis sitting on all four wheels/tires? You would be amazed how much the front of the frame will "droupe" (even with a perfectly rust free frame) if the car has been sitting on stands that are located on the frame, in the firewall/footwell area.

dc2x4drvr

Question, when putting the body back on the frame, were torques specs followed, check body to frame dimensions both sides..and make sure the body is square to the frame.
From here looks like the core support is taking a lot of shims.
Also, the door gap at the rocker should be same front-rear, before attempting to align front clip.

chasmo

Took the body off in 1977, painted, body reassembled, engine and trans installed and drive able in 1978. A few years ago repainted the car. The body shop reassembled the car after painting. The fender braces were no where close to fitting. So, I loosened everything up and restarted. I've been fighting this for a couple of years. This car hasn't been licensed since then. All alignment is with car on the ground.

Post70

Not picking on you but undo what you did and get it back to where the body shop had it. It looks like they had the sheet metal alignment correct. Not very many frame off restorations back in the 70’s. Was it in a collision? There has to be some retired body guy’s around you needing some cash. Ask around for local help and you should be able to knock it out in an afternoon.

fasteddy

Those core support mounts you have are not right at all. It looks like you have an extra body mount on top of the frame with the core support mount on top of that. You need to check all of your body mounts and core support compared to the manual. I don't know how it even lines up at all with what you have under the core support.

Pat

chasmo

The pictures you see is my alignment. The body shop alignment, the fender braces wouldn't line up with factory holes. My alignment the braces fit perfectly. I've pretty much done everything you said numerous times. I didn't do the doors. I was 20 yrs old when I tore this car apart. Never wrecked when while I've owned it. It had 77,000 miles on it. I had a body man over a few weeks ago and he shimmed it the same way. The core support bushing came from restoparts. I have the small square mounts.

fasteddy

Either the body mounts are installed incorrectly or you have a bent frame, you should not need that much space/shim under the core support. I don't think the core support is meant to be shimmed more than 1/4" max, and that would be a lot.

Take a close look at all of the body mounts to make sure they are seated right and check the torque on the bolts. There must be a mount/mounts installed wrong.

Pat

chasmo

The mounts were installed about 45 yrs ago and bought from the dealer. How am I going to check them with the car on the frame? Pull front clip?
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your input. I'm 70 yrs old and I really want to get this done.

fasteddy

You just need to get under it and look at the mounts. You can see them pretty well under the main body from the center and from the outside in the rear by the gas tank.. There must be some missing or doubled up somewhere.

Pat