oldsguybry

Before I take the fender off to repair some rust I realized I never found out whether or not this motor came out of this particular 72 CS..... I beleive we figured out that it is a Olds motor from 72 , but that was as far as we got.....what other markings or numbers do I need to in order to confirm that this motor came out of this car ? heres the number from behind the water pump on top.....395558 with a big number 2 after that , and the vin # is....3J57K2Z106564......im gonna attempt some big pics , if it doesnt work then ill just do the thumbnails....thanks in advance. Bryan

oldsguybry

here is the motor in question , now you can see why im curious , and the second picture shows a bad control arm bushing , and finally , I really need to find a replacement for the rubber hose ... can I get a replacement or do I get a flared tube / compression fitting to fix this ?

GAOldsman

You will have a pad on the driver's side of the block towards the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold that will have numbers that will correspond with the last half of your VIN, if it is the original engine.

Page 59 on this PDF file will show a metal fuel line and recommend finding one.

http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...bly_Manual.pdf

69442C

I'm thinking either the engine is not original or the intake is not. 1972 did not use an EGR valve like you have on yours. This is the round thing bolted to the intake, next to the carb on the driver's side. I'm not a big fan of a rubber fuel line to replace what was a metal line so I would suggest you get a replacement metal line too.

oldsguybry

thanks I appreciate it , I will repair the gas line this weekend and start the fender repair next weekend.

oldsguybry

it was a CA car , so maybe the EGR is correct , and .....yes I agree , I want to replace the rubber hose back to metal asap..... and dang it on the exhaust manifold , because I had it off last summer and should of wrote those #'s down . im not extremely worried if its not the original , but it would be nice

2blu442

Good morning Bryan. The blue painted valve covers are also a clue that it may be a newer engine as 1972 would have been gold. 1972 should have 7a heads, the 1973 into mid-late 70's would be #8's. But to know for sure check the vin number on the drivers side of the block. The last digits of whats stamped into the block should match the last digits of the vin tag on the dash. Attached are a couple pictures of the location. Look right above the end of the ratchet handle. You'll likely need to wash off the gunk and get a strong flashlight, possibly a mirror too since it's in the car. John

P1010033.jpg

P1010032.jpg

oldsguybry

Good morning John , and thank you VERY much for the info , I scrubed the gunk off and finally got the numbers ..... and here they are......36M149696. obviously not the original motor , can anyone decifer the rest of this code? 3J57K2Z106564 is my vin #

oldsguybry

any ideas where I could get this gas line ? seems like the local auto part stores have a do it yourself tube and tube bender deal which crimps the line more then it bends it ..... I LMAO at the guy at the auto parts place trying to bend the tube to show me how its done with that POS tool he had to work with , the tube kept crimping just like it did for me with a brake line which is alot smaller then this line..... although ive had success bending tubing years ago , I could use some ideas or tips or a place I could contact to get a replacement line....thanks in advance....Bryan

GAOldsman

3 = Oldsmobile
J = Cutlass Supreme
57 = 2 Dr Notch Back Coupe
K = 350 4bbl
2 = 1972
Z = Fremont, CA Assembly Plant
106564 = Unit #

GAOldsman

RS441 is a mild steel one and RS441S is a stainless one just click on one to take you to yearone.com the mild steel one is $25.99 + shipping and the stainless one is $35.99 + shipping.

2blu442

And back to the engine vin it appears the motor came out of a 1976 built in Lansing. The first number which is 3 is for the Oldsmobile line. The second number which is 6 is for 1976, and the letter is which factory the car was assembled in and I believe M was Lansing. John

txtom

I thought I read once that 1979 was the first year of blue motors for Olds, but I could be mistaken.

oldsguybry

Thanks a million , I ordered the RS441 regular one , or at least I hoped I did.... the computer screwed up and I couldnt print the receipt information , so ill call on monday just to be sure.... dang it cost like $12 just to ship it to me , but worth it....thanks again....Bryan

oldsguybry

on that note , that makes my decison for me on what motor to put in my car now.......in with the 455 in the corner of my moms garage.....out with the orphan misfit 350.....on a later thread when I win the lottery

oldsguybry

BUT for now... I need to get my fuel line fixed and fix my fender rust issues , and then I need to replace the rest of the vacume lines , check the timing chain....replace the oil pan and try and figure out where the engine knock noise is coming from... will add more pics as I go along.

oldsguybry

The two screws on each side of the carb adj the air/gas mixtures for each side ...right? I read that you turn both of them all the way in , turn each one out 3 turns , and then adj a 1/4 turn each until... it seems that this definetely needs adj for it seems to be to rich for the most part.

MDchanic

To adjust your mixture:

1. Adjust dwell, timing, and valve lash (if you've got solid lifters)
2. Adjust idle speed (in Neutral for MT, D for AT)
3. Using a vacuum gauge and a tachometer, turn in the mixture screws a little bit at a time (like about ¼ of a turn) until the vacuum and speed start to drop
4. Readjust the speed screw to get back to the idle you want
5. Keep turning the mixture screws in until you are sure speed and vacuum have JUST started to drop and then readjusting speed - you'll get to a point where if you turn it in any more, you lose speed and vacuum that you can't get back by adjusting the speed screw - that's where you want to be.
6. Some instructions will say to turn both screws in an additional ¼ of a turn at this point - basically, just put them where it runs best on the street.
7. If you get to a point where you're not sure whether one or the other screws is making a difference, just turn it in bigger arcs and look and listen - like ½ turn clockwise, then ½ turn counterclockwise - ONE of these will make the engine go slower - if it's counterclockwise, you're too rich, if it's clockwise, you're close to the right adjustment.

- Eric

... also see these articles from Popular Science
November, 1966
June, 1974

Lady72nRob71

When replacing that fuel line, you may need to tweak it (as in some rebending) to get it to fit. Keep at it until you can start to thread the fittings on by hand. It may be frustrating but at least you will not strip anything. That always makes for a bad day.

oldsguybry

yea , I remember dealing with that in the past , but im a pretty determined guy so I will win in the end

oldsguybry

wow , thats pretty involved , I may need to take the car somewhere or get help with this from someone that actually owns the equipment I would need .... maybe ill just turn them and see what they do...

MDchanic

All you need is a vacuum gauge and a tach / dwell meter.
Doesn't everyone have these somewhere?

If you don't, they can often be found at yard sales and flea markets in the $5 range.

You can always do these adjustments by sound, but it's much easier with the meters (I have a hard time deciding "does THIS sound better, or does THAT sound better). If you don't have the equipment, then just do it by ear, and re-check it when you get the toys.

- Eric

oldsguybry

cool..I need to do something , because the fumes from this beast is killing me , makes your eyes water.

Lady72nRob71

Harbor Freight sells this equipment - good enough for my occasional use.
You may be better doing it yourself rather than paying someone the big bucks who may not have ever seen a carb, let alone knows how to adjust it RIGHT.

oldsguybry

I think this is beyond a patch panel anymore , I must of missed some impossible to see flakes of rust that made a new hole , so I found the rust I missed and got rid of it with the sandblaster .

MDchanic

GORILLA HAIR !!!

- Eric

oldsguybry

, I think I need tires also

69442C

If that is the only rust in that panel, it can definitely be patched. You may need to purchase a quarter skin to get a section large enough or fabricate your own if you have that ability. Or, seek out someone who can cut a rust free section from an original but otherwise damaged quarter. If you don't have the tools or skills to do it, a good body shop can handle it.

oldsguybry

eat your heart out Rob this only took me an hour or so

oldsguybry

lol , if I had not been so sick yesterday I probably would of painted more of the engine compartment..... but all foolishness aside , the gas line/fender repair starts this weekend including lots of pics if deemed necessary.

oldsguybry

ok , I bought a drill bit but its not for spot welds , but it has a flatter top similar to a spot weld drill bit..... I need to know about what size bit should I get for the final drill ? cause I have a 1/4 right now .... I was maybe thinking of drilling four of the spot welds all the way through both pieces of metal 1st , so I can put a small nut and bolt / machine screw to secure the inner fender support back on the fender ( temporarily ) until I can get it welded... ill have to use a washer or something on the side where the bigger hole was drilled to secure it .... here's the (cheap) drill bit I bought....

oh and maybe John knows where the location of all these little spot welds are...

oldsguybry

I may have to wait till next weekend on the repair because of a car shortage .... I just recently sold our problematic mini van , so we are down to two cars again and that means I will have to work fast and try to get it all done in a weekend , including the epoxy or POR that I put on.... with that said I need to know everything I will run into along the way ahead of time before I start this.

oldsguybry

well , whenever I actually get the chance to take the fender off to repair it , I may as well do the job here..... instead of taking up my moms garage for a few days , ill just take the fender off here and drive it to my moms house to work on. The management at this apartment complex , does not allow tenants to work on their cars in the parking garage ..... or at least it says that in the lease , but I see other tenants including myself working on their cars all the time , so ill just lay a blanket across the hood of the car while the fender is absent ... along with 2 x 4's to hold the hood up on one side.... here's a pic of my son by my car where im gonna do this dirty deed....

oldsguybry

I sure hope my car dont start on fire or hell freezes over before Yearone sends me my gas line. I did not realize that they did not have this in stock , and had to order this from their vender .... I really dont want to drive this car right now , but my wife & kids need the other car .... I could walk to work I guess or ride my mountain bike (to old for that crap ) only 5.7 miles from home .... btw ... the control arm bushing is pretty bad now , its clunking all the time when I turn the wheel sharply ( I really dont want to mess with those springs again , that crap scares me )

69442C

You could check with Fusick as they should have it on the shelf. If you order today, they will likely ship it by tomorrow. The only issue could be shipping delays due to the storm damage in that area.

To fix that control arm bushing, you don't need to play with the springs. Just remove the upper control arm by separating the upper ball joint from the spindle and then remove the nuts/bolts holding the control arm to the frame. The shock will prevent the lower control arm from dropping too far and the spring will also be retained where it belongs.

oldsguybry

omg , a million thanks , why didnt I think of that ..... on the control arm bushing removal

oldsguybry

The control arm bushings are on their way , I should be able to get them by tomorrow.... after reading Rob's thread on the bolt breaking on the control arm , im all paranoid now. The bushing is real bad ( picture of it in somewhere above in this thread) it is clunking more often now....

I also have another question.... when I put the front end back together , should I have left the two bolts on the radiator support loose until I got the hood and fenders back on ? It seems that they were not aligning very well.

oldsguybry

what I did was tighten the radiator support down on the marks that were left there from when I took it off , and then I put the fenders / hood on.... could that be why I had a hard time aligning fender bolt holes with the radiator support ?

oldsguybry

I found the build sheet under back seat along with a old San Francisco Giants pencil , a 1989 San Francisco football highschool rookie card , and a CA state park brochure.

oldsguybry

and heres what im here for ( control arm bushing replacement )