rfpowerdude

Has anyone moved/adjusted the location of their brake distribution block due to interference for headers? One of the lines actually interferes and the block is very close to the DS header. It would be great to see how others have handled this situation. Tools, location, methods, final outcome, etc.
Thanks all,

joe_padavano

Pretty much everyone who's installed headers has done this, so yes to your question.

rfpowerdude

Ok!!

Looking forward to seeing how others have handled this situation. Tools, location, methods, final outcome, etc.

joe_padavano

Perhaps that was the question you wanted to ask initially?

If your car is an AT car, you can move the combo valve or distribution block to the top of the frame rail where the clutch Z-bar pivot bracket would go without even disconnecting the lines. I've done this and used one of the pre-drilled clutch bracket holes in the frame to anchor it. There is also the option of mounting the combo valve under the M/C, but that requires making new lines.

rfpowerdude

well, that text WAS in the original post.😉

Sweet, I’ll lift the engine on that side, remove the header and see what I can do without pulling it all again.
Thanks Joe!

joe_padavano

Pulling the steering shaft often helps

JohnnyBs68S

Joe, great info. Is it safe to assume this can be done on all 68-72 A-bodies (w/ AT)? Any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?

joe_padavano

Correct

rfpowerdude

Are there any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?

joe_padavano

Nope. The headers would have been the problem there.

72455

Here's what I did, and it worked great. I did have to replace the front lines but it was much easier than jacking up the engine and removing the header.

rfpowerdude

UPDATE:

@72455, what kit is that?

It's a good thing I started working on this. Turns out that the line from the combo/distr. block to the PS front has a slight crack in it and is the reason there is no fluid in the front half of the reservoir. I can just replace that one line and I should be good to go. I have the block moved up to the top of the frame rail now. Not a difficult task at all.

72455

Here's the part numbers I used. These first 3 are from inline Tube:
BRK03A
CHB68A2
LNK10

And this is from Fusick
BPV712

rfpowerdude

Thanks a bunch!

72455

No worries. Also, since you moved your prop valve to the top of the frame rail, is it easier to get to the plunger/button? Because that's the main reason I moved mine to the top...much easier access

Fun71

I can’t remember ever needing to access that plunger, and I’ve been wrenching on my ‘70 and ‘71 since high school.