TenMidgets

I am going to check out a '66 Cutlass this weekend and wanted to get some expert feedback here first:

- Seller told me it has a 69 Rocket 350 with an automatic non-factory floor shifter...doesn't know the mileage
- new black interior (bucket seats)
- dual exhaust
- good running condition
- aftermarket wheels (I don't like them)
- only minor surface rust

I do like this body style, but not sure I should look into something without the original engine? (but a 69 Rocket is sweet)

Should I not worry too much about this if the body is sound and I can get it at a reasonable price? What would a smart price range be if you could only judge by the two photos below? Unfortunately I couldn't get anymore pics from him and it seems many people do not like to provide them (don't get that).

Thanks,
Bill

PS: Is that a post coupe and does that enhance or detract from the value?

jaunty75

First of all, it IS a post coupe. According to the Old Cars Price Guide, that does lessen it's value over a comparable car but a 2-door hardtop.

I would think the fact that it still has an Olds engine and that it's a desirable engine would not detract too much from value and might even enhance it given that the base V-8 for this car was the 330.

The Old Cars Price Guide lists the value for a 1966 Cutlass 2-door post in #3 condition ("car show" condition or a "20-footer" but not showroom) at $5,200. In #4 condition (runs and drives but needs complete restoration), the value is $2,300. Given the fact that parts of the car, such as the interior, are already in good shape, but other parts (rusty surfaces) are not, the value is likely somewhere between these numbers. Maybe $3,000? Maybe $4,000? What does he want for it?

By the way, the OCPG values for the same car at the same condition levels but as a hardtop are $7,000 and $3,100, respectively.


I, too, would be puzzled by the unwillingness on the part of some sellers to send more photos. In this day of digital cameras, it costs nothing to take and "develop" photos, and it costs nothing to email them. They have no excuse in not sending photos of the car from every angle or creating a (free) account on photobucket or something, uploading the photos, and sending interested parties the link.

RAMBOW

Rule #1. forget the price guides.
Rule #2. See rule #1
Rule #3. See Rules #2 & #1.

Search Ebay & craigslists ads in different cities across the country to come up with comparable recent sale ASKING PRICES (because you have no way of knowing what they really sold for). I would compare 65,66,67's together. Threre is a ton of information out there if you just take some time to do some searching.

Those value guide books are damn near useless because they don't closely follow the market trends. This gives sellers an inflated feeling of the value of their car (i just love car ads that state the blue book value of their given car is- especially when its way off from reality). Not to mention the blatant mistakes & errors in dealing with various models & options that change a cars value. Arg!


Anyway.... All that said... I see 66's & 67's in similar condition (from what i can see in the pic and your description) go anywhere between $2k-$8k around here. Thats a pretty wide range. The cars priced in the $7k+ range don't sell. Period. There are several local to me that have been for sale for YEARS at the same prices. I think i'd get tired of relisting eventually.

I got my 66 for $4k in 2009, and its a nearly rust free 2 owner original motor manual transmission car.... the price started at $6500.

Now i would never sell it for $4k, especially since i've put a lot of work into it since then, but i knew damn well it was a screaming deal- but the market is soft and you can find good deals.

I would not let a non original engine scare me away as long as its still an olds motor & ran good.

I would look carefully for signs of rust & quick/cheap paint job w/ cheaply done body repairs-
check the floor pans & frame rail for rust through...Bottoms of the windows for rust.
Check out the suspension(worn out most likely and not a surprise, but gives some leverage if it needs it, and a bonus if its been replaced). Give a realistic look at the interior condition... new original covers are great. new homemade covers are not.

All those things together should help you decide if his price is fair and how hard to negotiate down.

you didn't say what his asking price was?

Remember Research is your friend. I am dead serious about using CL. Look at the cars for sale in big cities all around the country searching for the same year cars to get a good idea what they are going for. Send some e-mails and get pics of other cars for sale to compare. Most sellers will send you a pile of pics... others just not prepared, and thats ok too.

Don't be afraid to travel for a car purchase, no matter how cheap.
If you were to pay $7500 for a quick paint jobed bondo'd over rust bucket in the north east, you could easily have bought a $4000 solid car from the west coast and had it shipped home for less money.

Something to think about.

I think another member here, Richard sold a real 66 442 w/ original motor- rough body, but pretty much rust free 2 years ago for $6500. That was a screaming deal.

There is a car local to me thats been on & off CL for a while. asking is $8k, its a 66 4spd car w/ a 67 front clip on it. New seat covers, nice paint, 455 engine.... badged as a 442 (clamed to be a 442, but who knows) (edit- went and looked for the ad, cars not up right now)

Just for comparison purposes.

jaunty75

Oh, for pity's sake, they aren't that bad. Besides, how they are any less useful than this:

That's real helpful.


Craigslist tells you what people are ASKING for their cars, not what they're actually selling for. Checking completed ebay auctions where the reserve was met is certainly a legitimate thing to do, but there aren't often that many of any particular car at any particular time in the same condition your car is in that you can be sure that ebay will be helpful at the time you need it. That's where the price guides come in as they take into account, among other things, auctions of all types.

RAMBOW

Have i mentioned my thoughts on price guides?

Allan R

Looks like a decent car. You realize the f85 was the entry (bottom model) to Olds? The wheels are immaterial to this sale. The 69 350 isn't really anything spectacular that will enhance the value of the car IMO + the aftermarket shifter you described suggests this is someones track car or street rod.

Where there's minor surface rust you can expect more underneath. Look under the car and inside the doors on the seam welds. Take a fridge magnet to check any areas you suspect look like heavier concentrations of body filler. There will be some - that's to be expected.

T.M. - my suggestion would be to start low and work up to a max you will pay. Based only on what I can see and what you've provided? I'd start at 2000.00 I think the info Jaunty suggested for pricing is fair. Don't let your emotions cloud your judgement when you go to have a look at it. BTW, take your camera and get pics you can post here. Don't forget the VIN and cowl info. I also like the 66/67 style, but prefer the hardtop coupe. You can let the seller know you know, if you know what I mean....

TenMidgets

Thank you all for the great posts...I feel armed and ready to go and do a detailed investigation of the car. I've never run into another resource with such helpful informative people!

That said, I don't get an exciting feeling from this car and was really just looking at it to do my dilligence. He is asking $3,500 for it which I believe is fair based on the limited info I shared. But I really am interested in another car that I am hoping will come up for sale sometime soon and I will likely hold out for that instead in case it becomes available.

Thank you all again, very much.
Bill

Allan R

Bill, it's good to know that you're not in a 'hostage' situation for buying this car. If you are looking at another 'comparable' one? You might suggest that as a bargaining chip. Just have to remember that this one *is* available. The one you're hoping for *isn't*.

Instead of walking a tightrope, why don't you approach the owner of the one you want and ask if it's for sale? If it is and for a decent price you've solved your dilemna. If it's not? Negotiate like William Shatner!

jaunty75

I missed this in the photo. This car is not a Cutlass in spite of how the thread is titled.

The 2-door post F-85 was available only in the very bottom-level F-85 line. A 2-door hardtop F-85 was available, but that was in the F-85 Deluxe line.

The values in the Old Cars Price Guide, though, are not much different from what I listed above for the similar Cutlass. In #3 condition, just under $5,200 instead of just over it. In #4, it's pretty much unchanged at about $2,300.

oldcutlass

It's worth what you are willing to write a check for! I believe any car thats a running driving car with good interior and a clean body should be worth at least what he's asking!

What are your intentions with your new future project??

With these cars you are much better off capitalizing on someone elses loss. I'd find something already restored for around $15k, cause believe me no matter what you do it's going to cost more than that to do one.

Last, but not least, you said this car does not really turn you on. Why waste yours and the current owners time messing with a car you don't even like! Take your time and find the one that speaks to you!

Just my humble opinion.

TenMidgets

Thanks guys, this is more info than I even expected. I didn't know much about the 66's but will sit tight and keep saving for the "dream car".