455 plans - scrapped
#1
455 plans - scrapped
Hey guys,
I have a nice 79 Cutlass that was so clean, I couldn't resist buying a good, used 455 to replace my oil-burning 260 - but it did run and drive, and I definitely pulled the motor too hastily. Anyway, the 455 came out of a motorhome with low mileage, I did get to hear it start cold and run, and it seemed to idle like a top. It spent a couple of years on the stand before I decided to take it to a rebuilder to have the top end done and assembled. I brought him re-done "C" heads, timing gear kit, oil pump, edelbrock intake, gasket kits, everything but the carb. The builder - who is very reputable, and an Olds/Buick specialist here in NJ - was agreeable to doing basically an assembly of the parts I gave him, and doing a mild cam. I figured we would be in the $1500-2000 range. I paid $400 for the block and am $1000 into the heads, so I felt OK at that point.
Here's the bad news. A few days after getting the engine, the guy calls and says it's going to need a total rebuild, the crank is shot, 2 main bearings are spun, but the block is salvageable. He usually charges $3500, but since I have finished heads, $3000, plus parts, including a good used crankshaft, and now we'll be close to or at $5000.
This is way out of budget. I put him on hold for a few days, but am at a loss. I hauled this complete engine -- and all my accumulated parts -- over there and really don't want to haul it back. Not to mention that I still need a radiator, carburetor, and all the nickel-dime stuff in getting an engine up and running.
Should I bail out and find a good -- actually good -- complete running engine? I want to stay Oldsmobile (BOP TH 400, motor mounting ease). I can't justify $5000 more right now with 3 kids and plenty of stuff needed around the home.
I'm not looking for sympathy, I know well how cars can become money pits. Just thinking out loud about alternatives. I love my 79 Cutlass, but I don't want to be $20K into it. I don't have the ability to do the machine work needed -- hell, I didn't have time to assemble, that's why I brought it to the shop. And I think the guy's labor rate is fair, considering the work being done.
Any advice? Anyone got a good engine with paperwork they want to sell? :-)
I have a nice 79 Cutlass that was so clean, I couldn't resist buying a good, used 455 to replace my oil-burning 260 - but it did run and drive, and I definitely pulled the motor too hastily. Anyway, the 455 came out of a motorhome with low mileage, I did get to hear it start cold and run, and it seemed to idle like a top. It spent a couple of years on the stand before I decided to take it to a rebuilder to have the top end done and assembled. I brought him re-done "C" heads, timing gear kit, oil pump, edelbrock intake, gasket kits, everything but the carb. The builder - who is very reputable, and an Olds/Buick specialist here in NJ - was agreeable to doing basically an assembly of the parts I gave him, and doing a mild cam. I figured we would be in the $1500-2000 range. I paid $400 for the block and am $1000 into the heads, so I felt OK at that point.
Here's the bad news. A few days after getting the engine, the guy calls and says it's going to need a total rebuild, the crank is shot, 2 main bearings are spun, but the block is salvageable. He usually charges $3500, but since I have finished heads, $3000, plus parts, including a good used crankshaft, and now we'll be close to or at $5000.
This is way out of budget. I put him on hold for a few days, but am at a loss. I hauled this complete engine -- and all my accumulated parts -- over there and really don't want to haul it back. Not to mention that I still need a radiator, carburetor, and all the nickel-dime stuff in getting an engine up and running.
Should I bail out and find a good -- actually good -- complete running engine? I want to stay Oldsmobile (BOP TH 400, motor mounting ease). I can't justify $5000 more right now with 3 kids and plenty of stuff needed around the home.
I'm not looking for sympathy, I know well how cars can become money pits. Just thinking out loud about alternatives. I love my 79 Cutlass, but I don't want to be $20K into it. I don't have the ability to do the machine work needed -- hell, I didn't have time to assemble, that's why I brought it to the shop. And I think the guy's labor rate is fair, considering the work being done.
Any advice? Anyone got a good engine with paperwork they want to sell? :-)
Last edited by oldcutlass; May 19th, 2022 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Took out the sale reference.
#2
It'll be tough to get a known good, especially documented, engine for less than $5k. There aren't all that many just laying around anymore, so now it's either a core that might be in worse shape, or a built engine.
I have a known good, and documented, 403, but I dumped something stupid like $12k getting it built, so not planning to sell it for $2.
I'd recommend visiting the shop, taking a look, and having a frank conversation. You might get away with just a crank and bearings. Main thing is to be clear on goals, budget and expectation. If I was the shop, I'd be worried about warranties and reputation, so I'd want to build the best thing that I could. In this case, cutting corners may be just fine to save money, but know that the engine may not be warrantied.
IMO, $400 for a running core is a steal. Sometimes you end up paying that for a pile of crusty, rusty junk that might only have one or two good parts.
I have a known good, and documented, 403, but I dumped something stupid like $12k getting it built, so not planning to sell it for $2.
I'd recommend visiting the shop, taking a look, and having a frank conversation. You might get away with just a crank and bearings. Main thing is to be clear on goals, budget and expectation. If I was the shop, I'd be worried about warranties and reputation, so I'd want to build the best thing that I could. In this case, cutting corners may be just fine to save money, but know that the engine may not be warrantied.
IMO, $400 for a running core is a steal. Sometimes you end up paying that for a pile of crusty, rusty junk that might only have one or two good parts.
#3
Oddball - thanks, and you're right on all counts. Can't complain about the price of the core, or what the man is asking for his labor. Maybe I'll suck it up and get it bolted in and slowly pour the rest of the money into this pit.
#5
#6
I'm going to guess you have the Metric 200 trans and the 2:29 rear axle set up if it was originally a 260 (?). If so, IMHO that's all more than likely going to have to go if you place in a 455. And that adds up to another bunch of $$$$$.
Perhaps you can find a 1979 R code motor from a Delta 88, a 98 or even a 79 Hurst Olds that would be more adaptable. Might be worth a look at a huge savings.
Perhaps you can find a 1979 R code motor from a Delta 88, a 98 or even a 79 Hurst Olds that would be more adaptable. Might be worth a look at a huge savings.
#8
Good going on the trans, your options for a rear axle ratio are wide open with that combo, well done. Maybe you can land some 3:83's out of an 85-87 442 somewhere. Just a thought.
I really wish I could have afforded a rebuilt 350 back in 1992 when I ultimately wound up getting the 260 rebuilt for about $2500 all told. Just didn't have the dough at that time to buy all the ancillary stuff you need to go with it.
I really wish I could have afforded a rebuilt 350 back in 1992 when I ultimately wound up getting the 260 rebuilt for about $2500 all told. Just didn't have the dough at that time to buy all the ancillary stuff you need to go with it.
#10
Maybe you can get him to do the machine work, and if you have the ability, assemble it yourself. I just did that with a 454, and it goes quite easily. It can save you about half or more of the cost. I built my 454 for about $3K total. I bought a short block from my local P-N-P junk yard $313, had the block machined (.030 over/decked/crank polished) for $450, new heads w/valves $1000, new pistons/rings (hyperutectic) $275, new lifters $150, new cam $200, new rods $250, bearings $125, seals and gaskets $225, assorted fluids/supplies $125. I reused the crank/head bolts, pushrods, rockers, rocker studs, valve springs/keepers, pushrod guides, intake/MPFI, and timing set (7K miles), I got all the parts together, and assembled it myself. You can borrow most of the necessary tools from Autozone, although you will need a feeler gauge, micrometer/caliper, and an array of wrenches. Remember to put zinc additive in the oil if you are using flat tappets. Run a tap down each bolt hole to make sure your torques are correct.
Last edited by Fred Kiehl; May 22nd, 2022 at 06:02 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post