Cam install question
#1
Cam install question
Working on my engine rebuild tonight. Installed my new camshaft. Question: Is there a cam retainer that goes on and bolts in to the oil plugs on each side of the cam by the timing gear? I'm pretty sure theres not. When I tore down the engine back in the spring I bagged and labeled everything and dont see a retainer and don't remeber one being there, but I just want to be sure. Its a 1972 Oldsmobile 350 block NON diesel.
#5
While we are on this subject. I have noticed that a few companies make a bearing that fits over the hub of the bolt and rides on the timing cover that is supposed to help with cam walk and prevent wear to the timing cover. I am replacing the timing cover on my current 455 build and am wondering if this bearing is worth the effort. The existing cover does have wear in this area and yet the cylinder walls are within stock specifications so the wear seems to the cover seems excessive. Thoughts anyone
#7
#8
That's called a cam button. And as stated that's a Chevy thing.
From what I have heard (and I don't know how true it is) Oldsmobile engines don't require one because of the reverse rotation of the distributor "holding" the cam back.
Someone please confirm or deny this.
From what I have heard (and I don't know how true it is) Oldsmobile engines don't require one because of the reverse rotation of the distributor "holding" the cam back.
Someone please confirm or deny this.
#9
#10
You are exactly correct. The helical gear on the distributor imparts a load to the drive gear on the cam, and depending on the direction of the gear teeth, that force can be either forward or backward in the block. In the case of an Olds motor, the force is towards the back of the block. The cam already has a flange on the front end of it to locate it in the block and react this force from the distributor gear.
and the cam being pulled inwards. There are roller shims for this, and I have seen
cam buttons used on Olds engines. i believe the theory for this is when the engine
is under DE- acceleration the cam trys to push forward.
#12
You can also buy or make a brass shim to go behind the thrust area of the cam where it contacts the block. Unless the block is worn, don't do it without machining the same thickness from the cam's thrust flange, so the lifters will contact the same place on the lobes as they were designed to do. Out of at least a dozen blocks, I have only seen one with wear on that surface. I used to shim the bolt so it was close to the cover, but don't bother any more. You could machine the end of the bolt and use a brass cup plug on it to get about .010" or so clearance to the front cover, but as stated above, it is probably not worth the trouble.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post