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Thanks again for the wiring diagram. Wires and box had been hacked from previous owner. Decided to buy all new wires and the box. Minus Ac wiring harness and took everything off the motor(haven't made it to the ac yet). Running and works from the key now.
The kit I found was this brand with everything for over 1,000(in 07) to change from a V belt to a serpentine belt. You could fabricated your own homemade brackets to make it work. I personally tried researching into the last years of oldsmobile on their small blocks to go rob some brackets from a savage yard(with no success).
Already swapped over from original points distributor to the HEI distributor.
Hi-flow water pump and High-volume oil pump(already had one on this original motor with a mild Crane Cam on the stock 5qt oil pan).
I upgraded what I could inside the motor and went with an aluminum radiator with dual electric fans.
I bought a Quad gauge from Auto Meter that looks really good behind the dash as an original gauge design. I reused the old metal frame that was holding the old gauges in place. Modified them to work with the new gauges I bought to all go behind the dash(give it that original look).
I had to send the gauge back due to OHMS for the stock GM sending unit(0-90ohms). The fuel gauge was working on(33-240ohms). Making the gas gauge read wrong. All is well now.
I know carburetors(undersized edelbrock 600cfm on it now) and fuel injection have been upgraded to work with an electronic overdrive(4L60E transmission with removable bell housing to swap one with a BOP bolt pattern without using a plate and changing shaft depth). Running with the 350turbo and shift kit for right now.
Holley adjustable fuel injection is where I'm leaning towards that would require a plate adapter(1") from edelbrock aluminum rpm performer intake manifold. I would like to keep everything under the stock hood or the ram air hood from a 442(I was told that I would gain an inch). I got a 3" drop on my X-Stream K&N air filter now.
I can provide specs on my rebuild in 07
Any experience would be greatly appreciated!
Always looking for his bigger brother 455 big block motor to put on the engine stand.
Look again at that kit from March. It isn't even one of their psuedo-serpentine kits. It is simply a very expensive set of aluminum pulleys and brackets that use flat multi-rib belts instead of V-belts. There are still two separate belts, one for the alternator and one for the PS pump. Your call on if that bling is worth the money to you. There will be zero performance or reliability improvement. If all you want is the bling, you can get your original brackets an pulleys chrome plated for a lot less.
Look again at that kit from March. It isn't even one of their psuedo-serpentine kits. It is simply a very expensive set of aluminum pulleys and brackets that use flat multi-rib belts instead of V-belts. There are still two separate belts, one for the alternator and one for the PS pump. Your call on if that bling is worth the money to you. There will be zero performance or reliability improvement. If all you want is the bling, you can get your original brackets an pulleys chrome plated for a lot less.
It was to modernise the motor with some bling. Wouldn't mind taking it to a car show in the future.
Experience on what combinations fit under a stock or ram air hood with a carburetor or fuel injection setup on high rise intakes(maybe I can go bigger than what I got now).
My American Racing torque thruster II with 15x7(215/65/R15) and 15x10(275/60/R15) rubbing in the rear just a bit(thinking mini tub or 15x8). I don't want air shocks again. They originally had new Firestone 305/50/R15 when I traded for them brand new on another set of rims I had with no tires($450).
I haven't tried putting on the power brake booster on my master cylinder with my bigger specs to see if it's going to work properly with my drum brakes.
Enjoyed it with the same motor in my 1972 Cutlass Supreme(parts car) before the rebuild. Long story cut short to me swapping everything over. I was already in the process of what I doing now back in 06-07 with a car that was in better shape.
So your saying I can fit any combination under the stock hood?
What I got is the aluminum rpm performer with an undersized 600 carburetor...looking into the 750 double pumper or fuel injection to fit under a stock hood. Someone might have fit a higher rise intake then what I got with something similar.
Bigger stall will be next on the list
Last edited by Letsrunum; February 16th, 2020 at 03:42 PM.
Anything you want to add going through my experience with getting things to fit without maybe some unforeseen experience I'm not aware of would be nice(didn't do this for a living).
Cam specs Rollor setup was around $1000 at a lower power band than my cam at the time(might still be the same). I did install roller rockers(machine work on block and guide plates) with solid Ford pushrods(to specs) and not the weld on ***** at the end. I remembered a rope seal(replaced) and stock standard oil pump(replaced)Summit offered in their forged rebuild kits. I bought what ARP bolts or studs that I could use going back.
So your saying I can fit any combination under the stock hood?
What I got is the aluminum rpm performer with an undersized 600 carburetor...looking into the 750 double pumper or fuel injection to fit under a stock hood. Someone might have fit a higher rise intake then what I got with something similar.
Bigger stall will be next on the list
Would there be any power gains going any bigger on the intake than my what my cam is rated?
My American Racing torque thruster II with 15x7(215/65/R15) and 15x10(275/60/R15) rubbing in the rear just a bit(thinking mini tub or 15x8). I don't want air shocks again.
If you have rubbing issues with 275-60-15s on a 1970 Cutlass then your wheels have incorrect backspacing. 275-60s should fit with plenty of clearance, and even 295-50s fit with room to spare as long as the wheel backspacing is correct.
If you have rubbing issues with 275-60-15s on a 1970 Cutlass then your wheels have incorrect backspacing. 275-60s should fit with plenty of clearance, and even 295-50s fit with room to spare as long as the wheel backspacing is correct.
Spacing where it mounts on the rim for inside spacing or outside spacing to fit inside the fender well?
I do know the rear end in my 70 is 12bolt vs 10bolt on my 72. Sounds like someone upgraded the rear end(changed oil).
Spacing where it mounts to the axle hub. A 15x10 wheel should have 5" backspacing to center the wheel in the wheel well.
That "12 bolt rear" is likely original to your car. 1970 was the last year that the O-Type rear was used on the Cutlass (the O-Type was used from 1967-1970). It has a 12 bolt cover but a 10 bolt ring gear. Starting in 1971 the 8.5" 10 bolt rear was used.
Spacing where it mounts to the axle hub. A 15x10 wheel should have 5" backspacing to center the wheel in the wheel well.
That "12 bolt rear" is likely original to your car. 1970 was the last year that the O-Type rear was used on the Cutlass (the O-Type was used from 1967-1970). It has a 12 bolt cover but a 10 bolt ring gear. Starting in 1971 the 8.5" 10 bolt rear was used.
Looking for a set used or new to match my driver's door hard cover rally style side mirror(not for sure but it matches my hard top(awesome set). Lost my passenger's door side mirror to the set. Not a place on the driver's door panel for adjustment stick on the 70 model.
Anyone tried fitting the mega shifter or star shifter from B&M into the stock floor console? I have both
I originally tried the aluminum thermostat housing(one from Napa and O'Reilly) but it wouldn't match up(tube was way off from my water pump). Tried bending one without breaking the housing(no luck). You can see I painted the original gold.
For your wheels, you need correct backspacing/offset. Ideal backspacing for 15x10 is 5.5" then you can fit 295 or wider tire without issues, front you can do 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing.
For pulley set up check out CVF racing, good quality and Made in USA. If you want some bling you can do what I did for about $350, not serpentine but looks much better.
Hell anything is better looking than super ugly overkill brackets that Olds put in.
For your wheels, you need correct backspacing/offset. Ideal backspacing for 15x10 is 5.5" then you can fit 295 or wider tire without issues, front you can do 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing.
For pulley set up check out CVF racing, good quality and Made in USA. If you want some bling you can do what I did for about $350, not serpentine but looks much better.
Hell anything is better looking than super ugly overkill brackets that Olds put in.
I meant to say 295/50/R15 was the original size for the Firestone tires.
That is the clean look I'm going for in the future that would be worthy for the car show. Keep posting those pics!
All rpm ranges given for a product take into account the entire engine group. So, a 330 will have a higher power band than a 403 would with the same equipment. That's really not a good way to gauge your power level and where it will occur, too many variables.
Hope this helps.
All rpm ranges given for a product take into account the entire engine group. So, a 330 will have a higher power band than a 403 would with the same equipment. That's really not a good way to gauge your power level and where it will occur, too many variables.
Hope this helps.
like me talking about oversizing the intake manifold(any increases)and sizing a proper carb or fuel injection system to match?
All rpm ranges given for a product take into account the entire engine group. So, a 330 will have a higher power band than a 403 would with the same equipment. That's really not a good way to gauge your power level and where it will occur, too many variables.
Hope this helps.
Could I not test this on a test run from a dead stop(flat on it's face before the power range kicks in)?
I haven't tried putting on the power brake booster on my master cylinder with my bigger specs to see if it's going to work properly with my drum brakes.
Enjoyed it with the same motor in my 1972 Cutlass Supreme(parts car) before the rebuild. Long story cut short to me swapping everything over. I was already in the process of what I doing now back in 06-07 with a car that was in better shape.
I know carburetors(undersized edelbrock 600cfm on it now) and fuel injection have been upgraded to work with an electronic overdrive(4L60E transmission with removable bell housing to swap one with a BOP bolt pattern without using a plate and changing shaft depth). Running with the 350turbo and shift kit for right now.
Purpose was to fit some gears and still drive on the highway without a trailer(true street racing)to get where I'm going. I guess transmission section and rear end gear section for combinations. Dead stops and top end for whatever race you might yourself in, on the streets.
I don't remember who it was talking about hi volume oil pumps causing problems at high rpms when I browsing the forum.
72 Cutlass Supreme was given to my older brother in 93(16yrs old) when it was overhauled with this crane cam and hi volume oil pump(stock 5qt oil pan) that was still running after being rolled 2-3times(I rolled it once) with alot of racing between the both of us by the time I got the car.
Family car history goes back to the early 80's on the 72 when my parents bought the car. Nobody was willing to fix the Vrod(big cottonwood tree cut down by landlord & twin brother where it dropped from the back to the front right down the middle of the car). Probably cost to much in labor
Alot of sentimental value to me
Took me alot of years to get back to this point and nothing is going to stop me from finishing it either. Most would've given up by now!
I kept everything inside motor to look at later
Last edited by Letsrunum; February 24th, 2020 at 09:50 PM.
Looking for a set used or new to match my driver's door hard cover rally style side mirror(not for sure but it matches my hard top(awesome set). Lost my passenger's door side mirror to the set. Not a place on the driver's door panel for adjustment stick on the 70 model.
Anyone tried fitting the mega shifter or star shifter from B&M into the stock floor console? I have both
I don't remember who it was talking about hi volume oil pumps causing problems at high rpms when I browsing the forum.
72 Cutlass Supreme was given to my older brother in 93(16yrs old) when it was overhauled with this crane cam and hi volume oil pump(stock 5qt oil pan) that was still running after being rolled 2-3times(I rolled it once) with alot of racing between the both of us by the time I got the car.
Family car history goes back to the early 80's on the 72 when my parents bought the car. Nobody was willing to fix the Vrod(big cottonwood tree cut down by landlord & twin brother where it dropped from the back to the front right down the middle of the car). Probably cost to much in labor
Alot of sentimental value to me
Took me alot of years to get back to this point and nothing is going to stop me from finishing it either. Most would've given up by now!
I kept everything inside motor to look at later
I got original pictures when it happened put away. Had one guy back out in Oklahoma city when I started breaking it down. I still have everything for the car.
That's a pretty serious camshaft in a 350 Olds. I'd recommend a minimum of a 2800 stall converter and a minimum of a 3.55 rear gear (3.73 preferred) for that cam.
We already knew about the 455 beating out the competition in torque in 1970. How many knew about what was next to take out the competition once in for all with three different packages. (Turbocharged,supercharged, and with no addons).
Published on Jan 21, 2016John Beltz was Oldsmobile's chief engineer in 1964 and one of the prime movers of the Toronado and 442 project. Beltz was promoted to Oldsmobile general manager at age 43 in 1969 when Harold N. Metzel retired. Beltz passed away in May of 1972 from cancer at the age of 46. John Beltz is leaning on a dual fan 455 Olds and posing with other experimental Olds engines that never saw production. Here are descriptions of these engines: 1. The 0W-43 all aluminum 455 with 4 valve per cylinders, four overhead cam Weber engine. With a redline of just under 8,500rpm it was originally conceived for CAN AM racing. At 3,000rpm it put out 300hp and at 6,000rpm registered over 600hp. The top output recorded for this engine in the Lansing dyno facility was 700 real hp at 6,800rpm. Tests were run with both carbueration and fuel injection. The block was cast from Reynolds 356 alloy and fitted with pressed-in dry steel cylinder liners for the Forged-True 12.20to 1 pistons. Billet steel connecting rods by Carillo was used along with a forged steel crank. The engine weighed in at 50 pounds lighter than the production 455 motor! It was developed at the same time as the ZL-1 Chevy 427 motor.
2. The W-43 4 valve per cylinder 455 developed by JOHN BELTZ , LLOYD GILL , JOE JONES AND FRANK BALL. Rated at 500-550hp with a single Rochester Quadrajet on an aluminum manifold. Constructed with both cast iron heads and block and with aluminum-alloy block and heads 75 pounds lighter than the conventional 455 production engine. Engine featured four valves per cylinder with narrowed angles for a super efficient combustion chamber design, central spark plugs and could easily be adapted for chain for gear driven overhead camshafts. 455 engine had 4.625inch cylinder centers, a 4.125 bore and 4.250 stroke. Making use of the 3inch main bearings and 2.50 inch rod journals, the engine was fitted with a specially prepared cast crank fitted with SAE-1140 forged steel rods, forged 10.20-to-1 pistons which rode on Morraine 400 bearings. Four bolt main block boasted 2 additional 5/8inch drain holes. Four valve heads featured 1.750inch intake valves (SAE-8640 steel) with 22 degree stems and 1.375 exhaust (214-N stainless steel) with 15 degree stems, special Stellite seats, bronze alloy guides, o ring plug tubes, 14mm spark plugs, 3/8 inch pushrods and aluminum rocker arms. (Of all the experimental Olds engines, this one came the closest to production and there are photos of this engine in street gear. MAY 71 HOT ROD MAGAZINE features some of these engines and the sadness of the Olds engineers of that time of how they would never be released.)
Last edited by Letsrunum; March 4th, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
February 16th, 2020, 11:57 AM
