Interior Gutted with questions
#1
Interior Gutted with questions
Well, I got bored and wanted to touch up the interior and dye some parts. I decided to gut the interior, dye all the trim pieces, dash, console, fix all the wiring, paint the floors and all that good stuff and here are a few photos
My question is that the car came as a floor shift with console but at some point the steering column was swapped and a column shift column was used and the shift lever was removed. With the key removed you can shift through the gears so the lock out does not work. My question is what needs to be done to repair it. I have considered buying a new column but that may be overkill.
My question is that the car came as a floor shift with console but at some point the steering column was swapped and a column shift column was used and the shift lever was removed. With the key removed you can shift through the gears so the lock out does not work. My question is what needs to be done to repair it. I have considered buying a new column but that may be overkill.
#3
YellowStatue...I will help with the deck if you help me with the sub floor in my master bath...Maybe bored was not the right word but I would rather work on the car than the house
I have looked at tilt columns and want to but as you see I am getting deeper and all it takes is money and that is not unlimited as have to refoam my seats, blast the frames, new door handles arm rest backing plates and all that other good stuff so I would like to repair this column and save that coin....or leave it and swap it out later
I have looked at tilt columns and want to but as you see I am getting deeper and all it takes is money and that is not unlimited as have to refoam my seats, blast the frames, new door handles arm rest backing plates and all that other good stuff so I would like to repair this column and save that coin....or leave it and swap it out later
#6
I will have to look if it has the linkage or not.Is the linkage the reason te lock out does not work? If so if the linkage was added and the bowl with the shifter nub where the lever mounted was changed would there be any difference?
#9
Bluevista, I am not sure if they work or not. At this point I wold have to assume maybe they dont.
Leadfoot, If the column has to be taken completley apart to change the bowl maybe I am better off just buying a rebuilt floor shift column.
Anybody know anyone selling one I see them on ebay some rebuilt and some not. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyone on the borad here that rebuilds or sells them?
Leadfoot, If the column has to be taken completley apart to change the bowl maybe I am better off just buying a rebuilt floor shift column.
Anybody know anyone selling one I see them on ebay some rebuilt and some not. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyone on the borad here that rebuilds or sells them?
#10
#11
#13
Oooooooooops
203-272-711103 after 6:00 p.m est
Sorry,
I've got a bad case of Dyslexia
He's a nice HONEST parts guy who does what he says. I don't know about columns but ususally you get a choice reconditioned or as is
Givel Paul a call and say "hi" for me.
#14
Also, what year colums work? There is a 68 local for sale but dont think it will fit. I am not sure but heard the 69 and 70 will fit but should use the 71-72. Can someone clarify? Also all GM A bodies of the same years use the same column correct? Any issues when pulling one from another A body car?
Thanks
Thanks
#19
Now I am just waiting to get the front frames primed and painted and then reassembled. the new column will get installed along with the newly accuired rally pac gauge to go with the tic toc tac the car came with...Also adding the power trunk release. Have all the interior parts dyed, reseam seal the floors and paint and get ready to get the car back together...hopefully in less then 4 weeks
#20
Looking like good progress - you went all the way. Dash, too....
I hate painting springs. More goes onthe cardboard than the metal...
Remember where all the screws go and where they are? Nice puzzle.
Four weeks?? Thats what i said about mine. The clock's tickin'!
I hate painting springs. More goes onthe cardboard than the metal...
Remember where all the screws go and where they are? Nice puzzle.
Four weeks?? Thats what i said about mine. The clock's tickin'!
#21
Yea...4 weeks is not a long time but if I dont try to be aggressive it will be 4 months Not sure where all the screws go but I have them Here is the floor the gauges and the back side after soldering in the pin that was not connected
#22
And here are the last that I have and where I am now...the senders that came with the ralley pac are original AC delco and are being cleaned up. Any issues with used senders?
I am also going to replace the stock dash speaker and looking at using 2 round 4" speakers and run them with the 6.5's that I have in the custom kick panels. Still toying with the idea of rear speakers but really do not want to cut the panels...maybe i will find a set already cut
I am also going to replace the stock dash speaker and looking at using 2 round 4" speakers and run them with the 6.5's that I have in the custom kick panels. Still toying with the idea of rear speakers but really do not want to cut the panels...maybe i will find a set already cut
#23
Rear speakers fit in the well behind the seat- factory installed one on pass side but there are a left and a right oval hole for two 6X9 speakers...(10 ohm) there is a rectangular grille that goes over the speaker - the big problem with this set-up is not being able to hear the speakers with the top down...unlike the early 60's cars with the forward facing grille in the top middle of the seat so what we did is have a small speaker box in the back or between the buckets (with no console) for the rear noise
#24
Mine took about 4 months, but I did not hurry. It was a warmer winter anyway. Soldered pin looks like it will hold fine.
Nothing is wrong with used senders as long as they work. If not, then they are not too hard to change. Do you have the brass elbow for the oil sender? Looks like it is on there......
The 2 4" rounds will work, but check for clearance underneith. The defrost tube I think goes under it or something. Also, you will want to make a small thin wood piece to go on top, to keep the sound waves from the back of the speaker cancelling the front's. You do want to hear it.
The dual voice coil 4x10 replacements would work great there.
The back 6x9 speakers will be tough. Even with 50W per side in mine from a hefty amp, they are still hard to hear. Do not expect any bass from them due to the design, so you will need to turn the bass way down on your radio. Otherwise they will just distort and sound bad.
Radios were more of an afterthought in these cars...
My car already had the rear armrests hacked, so i used them. Not original, but they make a huge improvement in sound quality.
Nothing is wrong with used senders as long as they work. If not, then they are not too hard to change. Do you have the brass elbow for the oil sender? Looks like it is on there......
The 2 4" rounds will work, but check for clearance underneith. The defrost tube I think goes under it or something. Also, you will want to make a small thin wood piece to go on top, to keep the sound waves from the back of the speaker cancelling the front's. You do want to hear it.
The dual voice coil 4x10 replacements would work great there.
The back 6x9 speakers will be tough. Even with 50W per side in mine from a hefty amp, they are still hard to hear. Do not expect any bass from them due to the design, so you will need to turn the bass way down on your radio. Otherwise they will just distort and sound bad.
Radios were more of an afterthought in these cars...
My car already had the rear armrests hacked, so i used them. Not original, but they make a huge improvement in sound quality.
#25
Yes, Sound is an issue...and I do alot of driving so we will see what I choose to do. I did have 6x9's in the rear of my old one but there was no top and they did ok being pushed by a big amp and I had a single sub in the trunk to help out. I run component speakers so the crossovers work well to prevent distortion as that is what cause speakers to fail most times. I have seen from USA parts supply a factory dash speaker option that used a custom mounting plate for 2 4" speakers but am not sure of the quality of the speakers. I normaly run infinity speakers because of the clear sound. For me the sound is not just for the music while driving but movies at the drive in as well
Rob, With the sound quality you get out of those speakers would you have cut the panels knowing what the results are?
Rob, With the sound quality you get out of those speakers would you have cut the panels knowing what the results are?
#26
Almost forgot that I still need to pull the windshield to paint the metal dash dash and then play with the windows as they do not seat right when rolled up all the way. Then when the car is all back together the it will get the doors, hood and fenders realligned as the gaps are off and when the paint and body was done it was never detailed as there is rubbing compound everywhere that needs to be cleaned up and then the car will get polished
#27
Almost forgot that I still need to pull the windshield to paint the metal dash dash and then play with the windows as they do not seat right when rolled up all the way. Then when the car is all back together the it will get the doors, hood and fenders realligned as the gaps are off and when the paint and body was done it was never detailed as there is rubbing compound everywhere that needs to be cleaned up and then the car will get polished
Good time to do it all right. 3M has a windshield mounding adhesive sealing strip for WS installing.
The side windows are easy to adjust. The guides probably need new felt pads. Look in my flikr site on what I did to mine. Also the plastic guides may need adjusting. Replace the window felts before adjustment.
#28
I don't follow ya...
MIGHTASWELL!! All in 4 weeks, right?
Good time to do it all right. 3M has a windshield mounding adhesive sealing strip for WS installing.
The side windows are easy to adjust. The guides probably need new felt pads. Look in my flikr site on what I did to mine. Also the plastic guides may need adjusting. Replace the window felts before adjustment.
Good time to do it all right. 3M has a windshield mounding adhesive sealing strip for WS installing.
The side windows are easy to adjust. The guides probably need new felt pads. Look in my flikr site on what I did to mine. Also the plastic guides may need adjusting. Replace the window felts before adjustment.
#29
The soft side of wide 2" velcro (from Ace hardware) also works great. Side by side, they appear to be the same thing! Warm up the parts and pads before installing and make sure they are squeaky clean before hand.
There is only one roller in each of our front doors. It is pressed into the regulator, so it must come out for roller replacement. No, I did not change mine - just lubed it up.
One of my back windows got a new lower center roller and one of the side ones shimmed up. Side rollers are hard to find.
#31
Progress is GOOD
So the car got rolled out into the beautiful sun while I painted the interior parts. Opted for the SEM in a quart and after shooting a few light coats they came out great. the pictures do not do them justice as they look new
Did not paint the panels for the bucket seats as they are gouged and not in great shape so I will either buy new ones if I can get them or a good pair of used ones.
Did not paint the panels for the bucket seats as they are gouged and not in great shape so I will either buy new ones if I can get them or a good pair of used ones.
#36
WOWZ!! I sure like good progress, unlike what I'm doing... Weather here don't stay nice enough for painting - just waiting for spring.
When I come to Seattle, I will drop off some interior parts for painting...
When I come to Seattle, I will drop off some interior parts for painting...
#39