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March 12th, 2009, 01:15 PM
#1
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New to the forum
Hello all, my name is C.J. I'm 17 and recently got a 1970 Cutlass supreme holiday. Could someone link me to a guide to replacing the rear main seal on a 350? Or tell me an easy way to go about it.
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March 12th, 2009, 02:57 PM
#5
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Welcome to the site. It's nice to see not every young man getting into the hobby likes rice
. The seal is not going to be easy to get to. I believe you will need to remove the engine to change it out.
. The seal is not going to be easy to get to. I believe you will need to remove the engine to change it out.
March 12th, 2009, 06:42 PM
#6
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I figured it would be too much trouble to do with out lifting the engine up, I'll probably tackle the rings and bearings at the same time (the previous owner claims he did everything but those) but I can't be sure.
March 12th, 2009, 07:25 PM
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Thank you, I'll most likely go with the factory color due to the interior, it has paint over the original there were receipts from 2002 for paint stuffed in the original owner's manual, but the paint job look extremely rough and weathered to only be 7 years old
March 13th, 2009, 05:54 AM
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March 13th, 2009, 08:43 AM
#13
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I know someone will enjoy this
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[/IMG]He cut the tranny lines to fit headers and instead of spending 20 minutes to put the replacement lines in, he used fuel injection hose as patch.
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[/IMG]I fixed that, now i have to see if I can get the broken off manifold bolt out (circled in red)
March 13th, 2009, 10:14 AM
#14
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Welcome! - I assumed from the discussion you meant the rear seal in the 350 engine and not the rear seal in the 350 transmission - As a veteran beater Oldsmobile driver, of cars your vintage, may I suggest you put some light oil in it, like 10W-30 or 20W straight viscosity when the weather gets warm, drive it a bit, and see if the rear main settles down - When the engine bearings become worn, and the cars sits for long periods, with gravity working against you, the weight of the crankshaft and rods assembly and full torque convertor tends to elongate the rear main seal, the front seal of transmission, and sometimes the front engine cover seal - With some use and some hot-cold cycles, it may become pliable enough to seal - This assuming the engine doesnt have a 100psi oiling system from a previous re-do, thats bad news in cold weather with any oil grade - I have folded some of those fibrous floor oil absorbsion mats in to a small 6"X 6" square, and jammed them up between oil pan and front of inspection cover, to keep the underside of the car from becoming a huge oily dirty mess during the test - Anyway it's worth a try, I had a bad leaking '75 Supreme which came right back in to shape, with a little use and patience - Best ~ CW
March 14th, 2009, 08:45 PM
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Decided today to start sanding, luckily I got all the chrome off the top with out bending any, and I took a grinder to the studs that held the trim for the vinyl, I decided I didn't want a vinyl top.
So I'm going to sand and then shoot it with primer.
So I'm going to sand and then shoot it with primer.
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March 17th, 2009, 09:29 AM
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Saw a Craigslist Ad.on March 2nd for the Cutlass Supreme asked the guy if he'd take a 4wheeler as trade. He came and looked at the quad, then I looked at the car. Then took her home/
March 19th, 2009, 08:41 AM
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Thanks to everyone for their support, too many teens are into Riceburners when they try to pass all I smell is Silly Sauce.
Now I have A question, I have a 1976 455 is this engine worth keeping. I've tried finding details (horse power and such) but no luck. I know the "J" heads ( i believe) are crap.
Now I have A question, I have a 1976 455 is this engine worth keeping. I've tried finding details (horse power and such) but no luck. I know the "J" heads ( i believe) are crap.
March 19th, 2009, 09:40 AM
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Primer Surfacer....what about etch?
What primer surfacer are you using? I hate to see you go through all the work and trouble and apply primers and surfacers incorrectly. If you are taking to bare metal, you need to use an etch "primer" before applying "surfacer". It is one more step that will make the difference between a paint job that looks good for a couple of years and one that can look good forever!
March 19th, 2009, 09:51 AM
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What primer surfacer are you using? I hate to see you go through all the work and trouble and apply primers and surfacers incorrectly. If you are taking to bare metal, you need to use an etch "primer" before applying "surfacer". It is one more step that will make the difference between a paint job that looks good for a couple of years and one that can look good forever!
My dad told me as long as the metal had been "roughed up" that the primer would hold fine without first doing an etch primer. I also consulted the paint guru at a local autoparts store where I bought my primer and thinner ( he recommended the Evercoat because it was more cost efficient).
I'll double check though, thanks.!
March 19th, 2009, 10:04 AM
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What type of paint do you plan on using? This evercoat is a 1k primer (basically a lacquer) that will give you very little protection from rust. Remember, a good paint job is like building a house. If the foundation is no good, the house will fall down. This step in your process is probably the most important. It looks like too nice a car to cut corners on. I'm not trying to frustrate you, just don't want you to be disappointed later.
March 19th, 2009, 10:13 AM
#27
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What type of paint do you plan on using? This evercoat is a 1k primer (basically a lacquer) that will give you very little protection from rust. Remember, a good paint job is like building a house. If the foundation is no good, the house will fall down. This step in your process is probably the most important. It looks like too nice a car to cut corners on. I'm not trying to frustrate you, just don't want you to be disappointed later.
Since you seem to know paints, what do you recommend?
March 19th, 2009, 10:23 AM
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As far as ease of use and quality, Spies Hecker or Standox bc/cc. Plenty of technical support also. Dupont products are probably next. BASF is not bad either. Keep an eye on my thread in the vista cruiser section '70 Vista Cruiser Project....it might be of some help to you body wise!
March 19th, 2009, 06:54 PM
#30
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C.J. , I was told once "a 455 is a 455". They don't make them anymore and unless it is totally trashed, it's worth saving. It just takes up space.
Lot of people diss the J heads. They require a lot of work for a true performance engine, but work fine in most stock and street apps. If you can find a pair of C's, those are fairly common (used 67-69) and probably overall the best Olds factory head out there. Just be aware there are big and small valve versions.
How many miles showing on the car, and is it original engine? and what exactly did PO claim was done to it? I've seen Olds engines go hundreds of thousands of miles with no cylinder or ring wear, but I'm not following doing top end work and not going thru the bottom at the same time. False economy to me, but...
Lot of people diss the J heads. They require a lot of work for a true performance engine, but work fine in most stock and street apps. If you can find a pair of C's, those are fairly common (used 67-69) and probably overall the best Olds factory head out there. Just be aware there are big and small valve versions.
How many miles showing on the car, and is it original engine? and what exactly did PO claim was done to it? I've seen Olds engines go hundreds of thousands of miles with no cylinder or ring wear, but I'm not following doing top end work and not going thru the bottom at the same time. False economy to me, but...
March 19th, 2009, 07:12 PM
#31
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C.J. , I was told once "a 455 is a 455". They don't make them anymore and unless it is totally trashed, it's worth saving. It just takes up space.
Lot of people diss the J heads. They require a lot of work for a true performance engine, but work fine in most stock and street apps. If you can find a pair of C's, those are fairly common (used 67-69) and probably overall the best Olds factory head out there. Just be aware there are big and small valve versions.
How many miles showing on the car, and is it original engine? and what exactly did PO claim was done to it? I've seen Olds engines go hundreds of thousands of miles with no cylinder or ring wear, but I'm not following doing top end work and not going thru the bottom at the same time. False economy to me, but...
Lot of people diss the J heads. They require a lot of work for a true performance engine, but work fine in most stock and street apps. If you can find a pair of C's, those are fairly common (used 67-69) and probably overall the best Olds factory head out there. Just be aware there are big and small valve versions.
How many miles showing on the car, and is it original engine? and what exactly did PO claim was done to it? I've seen Olds engines go hundreds of thousands of miles with no cylinder or ring wear, but I'm not following doing top end work and not going thru the bottom at the same time. False economy to me, but...
PO claimed he put in A cam,lifters, pushrods and put a new timing set on it (he gave me the old pushrods and timing chain, he had them in a bin). He also did MSD ignition, a Jeg's Prostart Starter,Performer RPM intake, Holley Street Avenger Carb 670 CFM, a TCI torque Converter, and a new water pump. fuel pump and fuel filter.
I have no idea on the condition of the 455 Im guessing it was cut from a car in a junkyard due to the fact that it has an exhaust manifold hanging on one side that is sawed off.
Last edited by '70CutlassHoliday; March 19th, 2009 at 07:59 PM.
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