new member... looking for a 69 cutlass
February 3rd, 2008, 05:50 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 10
new member... looking for a 69 cutlass
Hi everyone! I just joined in desperate needs to find a good southern 69 cutlass. I had a badly rusted 69 cutlass and it needs new fenders and a lot of other stuff. I am trying to find a southern car that has good panels that I could use. the car doesn't have to run, I don't even care if it doesn't have a motor or trans. Mine runs.... its just rusted! LOW ON CASH but want to do this restore. If I can get a good body for 1,000 or so it would save me a lot instead of having to buy brand new panels. If you have a car you want to sell or know anyone else who does please let me know!
p.s.- Can any parts from a 70-71 cutlass be used to replace parts on a 69 cutlass? Just curious... its a lot easier to find 70s than 69s...
thanks
email is: seancool2@sbcglobal.net
p.s.- Can any parts from a 70-71 cutlass be used to replace parts on a 69 cutlass? Just curious... its a lot easier to find 70s than 69s...
thanks
email is: seancool2@sbcglobal.net
February 4th, 2008, 06:41 AM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,553
Good luck, but don't hold your breath. Rust-free A-body cars are hard to come by and extremely expensive if you find them. Let's just say you're not the only one looking for one, and money talks.
Unless the car in question is extremely rare, it's always cheaper to start with a solid, complete car.
p.s.- Can any parts from a 70-71 cutlass be used to replace parts on a 69 cutlass? Just curious... its a lot easier to find 70s than 69s...
February 4th, 2008, 10:41 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gladstone, OR
Posts: 490
A truly rust free car is more likely to come from the desert, like Arizona. A neglected southern car probably leaked around the windows and has rust in the trunk and floorboards.
I've seen hulls that were parted out in Arizona for sale on ebay. Don't remember what they were going for though. But a rust free straight 69 fender would probably go for $300 to $500. Doors about $300 or so.
So like Joe said; It's cheaper to start with a solid complete car. As a suggestion, you might get your car in the best shape you can, sell it, add the proceeds to what you'd spend on a body and then look for a better car. Jest a thought.
Don
I've seen hulls that were parted out in Arizona for sale on ebay. Don't remember what they were going for though. But a rust free straight 69 fender would probably go for $300 to $500. Doors about $300 or so.
So like Joe said; It's cheaper to start with a solid complete car. As a suggestion, you might get your car in the best shape you can, sell it, add the proceeds to what you'd spend on a body and then look for a better car. Jest a thought.
Don
February 5th, 2008, 04:39 AM
#4
78cutlass
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 134
Hi,
I'm looking for a '69 Oldsmobile 350 engine (long block). Preferably one that hasn't been rebuilt (original). Give me a holler if you got one for sale. Thanks.
Rolando
www.rocnliz03@yahoo.com
I'm looking for a '69 Oldsmobile 350 engine (long block). Preferably one that hasn't been rebuilt (original). Give me a holler if you got one for sale. Thanks.
Rolando
www.rocnliz03@yahoo.com
February 6th, 2008, 09:29 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 10
WHAAAAHAAHAAA!!!!
Good luck, but don't hold your breath. Rust-free A-body cars are hard to come by and extremely expensive if you find them. Let's just say you're not the only one looking for one, and money talks.
Unless the car in question is extremely rare, it's always cheaper to start with a solid, complete car.
If you're talking about sheet metal, nope. Body lines are completely different. 70-72 parts are more readily available because these years are more popular, although this may be a chicken-and-egg thing - they're more popular because parts are more readily available.
Good luck, but don't hold your breath. Rust-free A-body cars are hard to come by and extremely expensive if you find them. Let's just say you're not the only one looking for one, and money talks.
Unless the car in question is extremely rare, it's always cheaper to start with a solid, complete car.
If you're talking about sheet metal, nope. Body lines are completely different. 70-72 parts are more readily available because these years are more popular, although this may be a chicken-and-egg thing - they're more popular because parts are more readily available.
HAHA i know 1,000 seems cheap and impossible for what i am looking for but my cutlass i have i got for 1,000 dollars and it runs and everything so i figure if i can find a cutlass shell ( no motor or trans) i could get it for about 1,000....
February 6th, 2008, 11:04 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gladstone, OR
Posts: 490
You might get lucky!
But in the $1000 range I'd plan on repairing the lower channel on the rear glass, possibly the trunk floor, some rust in the rear quarters (front & back of the wheel wells) and the front fenders behind the wheel wells. Also check the battery area. If the floorboards have rust plan on repairing the lower channel on the front window as well.
Personally I try to stay away from cars that need trunk floor repair or rear inner fender well repairs. I'd also stay away from a car that has rust running all around the rear wheel opening. That will turn into a major headache. The rest isn't too hard if you can weld and fabricate a little. But in this price range you are going to be doing rust repair. Unless you get "Win the Lotto" lucky.
Even if you can't weld now you can get to a point where you can weld good enough get do these repairs. Borrow, rent or buy a Mig welder and practice while you're looking for the car. You could also buy a used welder and resell it when done for about the same price.
You might also make a list of areas to check for rust on the year/model Cutlass. That way even if you are buying only by photos you can evaluate the work needed. And you hopefully, won't miss anything.
I'm just saying, plan on doing some rust repair. Practice welding, if you need to. Then buy a car you feel you can repair. And your project will turn out fine.
Good Luck! And keep us posted.
Don
But in the $1000 range I'd plan on repairing the lower channel on the rear glass, possibly the trunk floor, some rust in the rear quarters (front & back of the wheel wells) and the front fenders behind the wheel wells. Also check the battery area. If the floorboards have rust plan on repairing the lower channel on the front window as well.
Personally I try to stay away from cars that need trunk floor repair or rear inner fender well repairs. I'd also stay away from a car that has rust running all around the rear wheel opening. That will turn into a major headache. The rest isn't too hard if you can weld and fabricate a little. But in this price range you are going to be doing rust repair. Unless you get "Win the Lotto" lucky.
Even if you can't weld now you can get to a point where you can weld good enough get do these repairs. Borrow, rent or buy a Mig welder and practice while you're looking for the car. You could also buy a used welder and resell it when done for about the same price.
You might also make a list of areas to check for rust on the year/model Cutlass. That way even if you are buying only by photos you can evaluate the work needed. And you hopefully, won't miss anything.
I'm just saying, plan on doing some rust repair. Practice welding, if you need to. Then buy a car you feel you can repair. And your project will turn out fine.
Good Luck! And keep us posted.
Don
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