1963 dynamic 88 body mount bushings
#1
1963 dynamic 88 body mount bushings
Does anyone know where I am able to find body mount bushings for my 63 olds? I have done quite a bit of research with no luck. Is there another vehicle with similar mounts that would work such as buick or pontiac?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
There are body mounts available , but you have to go outside the box .
Positions 1 & 8 can use a 1966 Toronado mount . You will need six . They are available from Steele Rubber ;
Steele Rubber Products - Body Mounting Pad | Classic Restoration | Steele Rubber Products
The rest of the mounts can be obtained from Ames Performance Engineering , a Pontiac company .They list mounts by dimension .
On page 270 .
8.125X10.5 (amesperf.com)
I've got to look at the car again to tell you for sure which ones go where .
I'm going to the shop tomorrow and I will let you know which ones go where .
Positions 1 & 8 can use a 1966 Toronado mount . You will need six . They are available from Steele Rubber ;
Steele Rubber Products - Body Mounting Pad | Classic Restoration | Steele Rubber Products
The rest of the mounts can be obtained from Ames Performance Engineering , a Pontiac company .They list mounts by dimension .
On page 270 .
8.125X10.5 (amesperf.com)
I've got to look at the car again to tell you for sure which ones go where .
I'm going to the shop tomorrow and I will let you know which ones go where .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; March 14th, 2021 at 02:04 PM.
#3
OK , I had a look at what I had , and I can tell you this ;
You will need to order the following from Ames Performance ;
Four #PS413 mounts for positions #4 & #9 .
Two # PS412 mounts for position #7 .
Two # PS411 mounts for the radiator support . You will need a shorter bolt with this mount .
I've got the body back on the frame and everything fits .
You will need to order the following from Ames Performance ;
Four #PS413 mounts for positions #4 & #9 .
Two # PS412 mounts for position #7 .
Two # PS411 mounts for the radiator support . You will need a shorter bolt with this mount .
I've got the body back on the frame and everything fits .
#6
Here is my project. I recently finished up the chassis. Its lowered 3 inches with all new bushings,brakes, etc. Motor was fully rebuilt a few months ago. I am currently working on painting the underside of the body to get it back on the frame.
#9
It will be red with a white top but I havent started on it. That is the old paint. Once I have the body back on im going to take the car to get blasted. Overall pretty solid body couple dents and 2 quarter sized rust spots inside the wheel wells.
#12
That really is looking nice. And Charlie, aren't convertibles different? (Not to mention mine is a '64, but I'm guessing '63 & '64 would be the same, all other things being the same.)
Some of these cushions I see online say "Except Conv."
Also, is the one that needs a shorter bolt thinner than the factory one?
Thanks.....
Some of these cushions I see online say "Except Conv."
Also, is the one that needs a shorter bolt thinner than the factory one?
Thanks.....
#13
Yes , convertibles are different .
They have several extra mounts in the middle of the car . ( positions 2 and 5 in the diagram above )
You would need to measure them and compare with the dimensions in the Ames catalog .
Seems as though 63 and 64 full size cars are the same .
Yes , the radiator mount is slightly shorter on the top cushion . Hence the shorter bolt .
They have several extra mounts in the middle of the car . ( positions 2 and 5 in the diagram above )
You would need to measure them and compare with the dimensions in the Ames catalog .
Seems as though 63 and 64 full size cars are the same .
Yes , the radiator mount is slightly shorter on the top cushion . Hence the shorter bolt .
#14
Thanks, Charlie. I'm on the cusp of whether to actually lift the body and R&R the mounts & fuel line. Not that this is a reason by itself to lift the body, but it seems to properly R&R the fuel line (no A/C, so no return line), the body has to clear the chassis. And those clips are sure a PITA. Car is on my lift now, and my plan would be to buy 2 more Harbor Freight lift stands (I have 2 already), lower the chassis, and clean everything up & replace the mounts, then raise chassis back up. It's all undercoated (appears from factory), and I'm not going to mess with the undercoating -- just clean thoroughly. I'll measure the pads, etc., when I get 'em off and try to get replacements. I can already see that some are dry-rotted -- which is not surprising after 57 yrs.
#15
My old mounts were squished out about 3/16 inch .
New ones put the body back where it should be
You will probably have to disconnect the steering column and the parking brake cable too .
The radiator mounts will have to be disconnected as well .
New ones put the body back where it should be
You will probably have to disconnect the steering column and the parking brake cable too .
The radiator mounts will have to be disconnected as well .
#16
Everything is already disconnected, off, or out underneath; so it's just a matter of removing the mounts themselves and lowering the chassis. That will allow me to clean things up real good, rather than just cleaning the underside as a whole. Won't be as nice as yours or 12dwilson92's, but it'll have to do....! The good thing about the undercoat is if it's still intact & doesn't have rust underneath, it's easier to clean up than an old painted surface or bare metal.
Since the tranny is out too, I should also lift the motor a bit as well. Only thing holding it in right now is the front mount.
BTW, anybody think it's possible to R&R fuel line without destroying it, while body-frame is assembled on a convertible? Doesn't appear possible to me. A previous owner (no idea how many of those there are) added a second fuel line inboard of the chassis, and left the original in place. I'm guessing a leak developed at some point; but I did a simple vacuum test on original and I found no leaks. Would like to go back with original -- or at least a repro.
Since the tranny is out too, I should also lift the motor a bit as well. Only thing holding it in right now is the front mount.
BTW, anybody think it's possible to R&R fuel line without destroying it, while body-frame is assembled on a convertible? Doesn't appear possible to me. A previous owner (no idea how many of those there are) added a second fuel line inboard of the chassis, and left the original in place. I'm guessing a leak developed at some point; but I did a simple vacuum test on original and I found no leaks. Would like to go back with original -- or at least a repro.
Last edited by Bee-Oh-Pee; May 16th, 2021 at 12:09 PM.
#18
I've good luck with repro lines from Classic Tube .
Classic Tube | Brake, Fuel & Transmission Lines
Fit was good , service excellent .
Classic Tube | Brake, Fuel & Transmission Lines
Fit was good , service excellent .
#19
Thnx 4 recommendation... I had ordered fuel + tranny lines for my Buick frame-off resto almost 20 yrs ago, but can't recall whether it was from Classic or Inline. I remember shopping both places.
#20
Classic Tube doesn't list anything for fuel or brake lines for '64 Oldses any more... I'm hoping if I call them, they retained the patterns and can still make 'em up. No luck emailing them. I guess they're shorthanded -- like practically everybody else these days. Inline doesn't list anything either.
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