f-85

No not really. With a built up motor maybe, but this was close to a stocker. Solid mounts are nothing new. We got this all done in a couple days, its really not that big of a deal if you know how to weld. I just made the exhaust with a few different pc to go the way i wanted it to go.

f-85

BTW this project was done 3-4 years ago.

Summerof84

Those pics reinforce what I had already noticed, the oil pan is the lowest point on the car. My pan is already pretty mangled from being in the '65, I am definitely going to put some kind of protection for the oil pan on my crossmember while I'm welding stuff.

Another thing I did not mention, but am very happy with; the 65 425 power steering pump is in the correct place and the factory 62 lines will bolt right up.

Summerof84

Cut and drilled the modified tranny crossmember I got with the car this weekend and snugged it up. Temps finally got back to the low 50's. Forecast for this weekend is 45 max again, so who knows when I'll be able to start sorting out the driveshaft. I didn't get the '62 one with the car, but the '65 one is around here somewhere!
I did get my Jetstar waterpump, so all that's left is to eventually spring for an S left side manifold.
After I figure out the driveshaft, it will be time to blow it all apart and weld some motor mount tabs in there. I wish I had a pic of a 64 Jetstar bay, it would be nice to make the tabs look like factory.

Dean Eechaute

I hope you can make it all fit. I located everything based on exactly were the S manifold needed to sit to clear the steering box and still have the proper angle for the drivetrain. Take it from me there is not much clearance to make this all work especially with the factory heat shield that came with the S manifold. The engine mounting plates are welding on the frame just working on the gusset plates to reinforce everything then TIG them into place. I will send pics with I have it done. Dean

Summerof84

So I found the correct driveshaft for a '62. I removed the slim jim yoke and went to install the T400. Different ujoint size and type.
Combination Ujoints exist to fix this, but there are no charts saying if you have a GM and are switching to T400, buy this Ujoint. Lots of info overload about S3, 1310, spicer, detroit, saginaw, blah blah blah. I have a headache and no ujoint ordered. Sigh.

At least I shoved the driveshaft into the tranny and set my engine/tranny distance. I was within an inch or so, not too shabby.
A pic of firewall distance and another of where the floorboard will be notched. I've decided to use the factory tranny mount, so I need an inch and a half up. The engine needs to rise for exhaust manifold clearance too.

Dean Eechaute

Simply with this combination you just need to bite the bullet and order a custom driveshaft for this setup. With the standard 400 tranny I was looking at about 67 inches for a driveshaft. That puts me in an aluminum 4" diameter. Have a friend that has a long tail 400 out of a Caddy with low miles who gave me that tranny. It is about 11 inches longer and means that now I can go a steel 3" dia custom driveshaft that will be alot cheaper and give less chance of vibrations. Only issue is now I need to fab an adapter plate for this tranny mount since it is different. Also with this installation I would recommend the Spohn.net aftermarket linkage for the rear diff. It is cheaper that putting new bushings in the stock stuff and now is adjustable to make sure you get the proper pinion angle for your ride. Dean

Summerof84

No new driveshaft for me, I want a factory look to this when I blow it back apart for restoration. I gambled on a u joint straight out of the NAPA catalog. It was too narrow, but I was able to switch the new caps onto the old body and I'm in business for now.

Notched the floorpan, set up the tranny mount and voila, looking correct. All that's left is to fabricate some motor mount pads and its on to exhaust.
I found that I want the engine higher, the fan is almost below the lower edge of the radiator right now, so I'm going to experiment with some metal plate. If more tranny tunnel needs to disappear for the motor to be where I want it, so be it.

Summerof84

My, how time flies. By the time I saved enough to order my S manifold, temps were pushing 90 and muggy, so that was that for this summer. Had mucho work to do on the DD's this fall, so I never did get back to it.
Doesn't look like Dean got anywhere either, no updates since May.

Tedd Thompson

Should have just rebuilt the 394 and been driving it for a year...JMHO.....Tedd

Octania

you bolted the engine right to the frame?

really?

wow

Summerof84

One would actually have to had a 394 in the first place.
Secondly, I'm avoiding the slim jim tranny without having to buy an expensive adapter that would cost more than the T400 long shaft did.

Summerof84

I'm guessing this is aimed at F-85, but just to clarify, mine is going on Jetstar motor mounts with welded mounting tabs needing install yet.

Dean Eechaute

Sorry, have not done much on the car lately. Youngest boy is now in private high school. Might as well be college already. The guy I got the long tail tranny from gave it to me for $60 and the rebuild on it was 20K ago. Could not go wrong there. The engine and tranny are completely mocked in. Right now finishing rebuilding a couple of gooseneck trailers that I will put for sale then will start on pulling the body off of the frame and start the rebuild. Dean

Summerof84

Not much happening here lately. I starting putzing with mine again this weekend after working with other projects that I can actually drive. I located my manifolds and mocked them in place. Final placement of the motor mounts and welding is now the last thing to do before wiring the motor up. Won't happen anytime soon though.

Danny Wiseley

Did you ever get a good look at the Jetstar mounts? Back in '68, I blew up the 330 in my J88, so I built a 425 industrial engine for it. Used the 330 mounts, supplemented by a chain from the frame to the driver side head. I used the 330 exhaust manifolds and fabbed a crossover pipe. (Yes, I was 18 and broke!) Since my Jetstar came to me with a Muncie 4-speed, the rear mount was factory. I stuck a set of 4:33 gears in it with gooey-soft recaps on the rear and had my license suspended in a matter of months, but I surprised the hell out of a lot of Mustangs, Chevelles and even a Street Hemi.
I bought it back a few years ago, and am slowly getting it back in shape, teaching myself to weld and do body work. I have a 455, a 425, a Muncie 4 speed and TH400 to decide on. I want the 400, but not the necessary trans tunnel modifications. Then again, there's nothing like a big ol' Olds with a 4-speed!
dw

Summerof84

If you have the factory 4 speed pedals, putting the Muncie in the car will really increase it's value. I still can't see any way of putting the T400 in without cutting the tunnel, with the exceptions of doubling (or tripling) up on the body mount thickness or putting the engine/tranny in on a 20 degree angle. That would also make the front u joint the lowest point on the car (yikes!). Keep in mind if you use the S left side manifold, you have to remove the mechanical shift linkage and use a cable system.

Dean Eechaute

I got the 400 to mount in mine with no issues. Granted I am currently just eyeballing the alignment of the drive shaft to the diff but it looks pretty close. How high are you mounting the engine up front? I can send some pics of what I have to see how it relates to your install. Dean

rr480

lonestarjarhead done a 394 to a 455 swap on a 63 olds 88 e-mail him he might have good tips

mrolds88

I'm doing a 64J88 myself. I put the big rear in so there are no surprises later on, not to mention that I got a steal of a deal on a set of Richmond gears and a couple of posi's. Right now there is a small block and a 400 setting in the car. Tranny is way too tight in the tunnel. Looking at a 200R4 or 700-4R. Think its a better fit. Also trying to go with a set of 69 98 spindles/rotors/calipers and M/c and prop valve. I SHOULD be able to use the 69 MC on the stock booster. The 69 booster should work also, but the one I have is real crusty. As far as steering, and exhaust, that's still up in the air. Also the tranny adaptor that was shown earlier in the post I cannot in any way see it working with this tranny tunnel. As it moves the bellhousing back and I can see a lot more interference. This seems to be a better option for doing a 400 behind a 394 http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/transm...conversion.htm

joe_padavano

Unlike other 1964 full size Oldsmobiles, the J88 used the 330, so any 1964-1990 Olds V8 bolts right in with no problems. The issue is replacing the 394 with a later Olds motor.

The 69 MC will not work with an unmodified 64 booster. The single circuit MC used on the 1966-earlier cars uses a longer pushrod between the booster and MC than the dual-curcuit MC's require. You either need to change the booster or cut down the pushrod.

I do not know if the 65-70 spindles fit on a 64. They are different. Also, replacement rotors for the 65-70 full size cars are virtually unobtainable. Note that the J88 used front brakes compatible with the A-body brakes. It might be a lot easier to simply retain the stock front spindles, since A-body rotors bolt right on. You'll need to modify the A-body caliper bracket to work, but that's pretty straightforward.

mrolds88

Lot of stuff to look at conversion, Joe. Main reason for the 69 parts is the fact of I have them. The spindles are designed the same. They have the bolt on steering arms. I know one of the ball joints is the same part number (forget if its the top or bottom). I know about the long pushrod. But after doing some checking on a few things, in 69 they used 2 different MC's that had a short pushrod design and a long pushrod design. Also about the rotors, you are 110% right. But again I have a good set. As far as the stock J88 spindles, Everything from a 69-72 Cutlass disc setup will bolt on, with the exception of the caliper bracket and dust shield. What needs done on them is to machine the upper mount boss down to proper size and either drill and tap that boss for the larger 69-72 bolt or, as I did, use a grade 8 bolt and made a threaded spacer to take up the slack. It worked well. I'm just changing the front setup to keep the 5x5 bolt pattern all around.

joe_padavano

My complements. You've definitely done your homework. I'll just point out a couple of things, which you may have already considered.

First, if the ball joint part numbers are not the same, be sure the taper on the stud matches the taper in the spindle. GM changed this taper over time (notably in changing from the 1970 full size to the 1971 full size cars, and from the 1972 A-body to the 1973 A-body cars). Use of tapers that don't match can lead to structural failure of the ball joint stud. Unfortunately, I do not know if there was a change from the 63-64 cars to the 65-70 cars on the one ball joint that is not the same P/N.

The other is the steering arms. Do the 64 steering arms bolt up to the 65-70 spindles? Is the attach point for the tie rod end in the same place as with the stock suspension? If not, there's a high probability that bump steer will be affected. Also, if the tie rod ends aren't the same part number for 63-64 and 65-70, again verify that the taper on the stud matches the taper in the steering arm.

Good luck. You've thought this out well.

Dean Eechaute

Joe you are right, there are some big differences between the suspension from the 64 and moving up to the 65 and newer. I agree on the Jetstar 88 the front disc brake conversion from a midsize F85 would be the way to go. Dean

mrolds88

I haven't gotten as far as checking the arms and the upper ball joint taper yet. The boy started a project and my 64 is quietly waiting behind a wall-o-stuff. Might be able to see her again in a month or so. Will start back up then.

lonestarjarhead

I finally finished installing the 455 and th400 in my 63 Dynamic 88 Conv. Lot of work, but, boy is it worth it! My 394 ran ok, but 455 has so much more power, and there is no comparing how much better the TH400 shifts. Basically had to fabricate horizontal tube mounts for side motor mounts. Got them(in stock) from OReillys. Think late 60s big block 88 or 98. Built crossmember for rear of tranny. Had custom driveshaft made. Had to notch and reinforce front crossmember and inset a box in firewall in order to locate motor where I wanted it. Rebuilt front of driveshaft tunnel. Real happy with conversion. Will try to get some pics and pm if anyone interested.

oldcutlass

Pictures?

lonestarjarhead

Like I said in the post, would be happy to text pics to anyone with my cell, but don't have any of the build as it was progressing.

Dean Eechaute

Interesting. I am doing a 425 with a long tail 400 tranny. I have mine positioned where I don't have to do any mods to the tranny tunnel or any firewall mods. Custom fabbed engine mounts and used twin humped cross member for the tranny mount. I have dual exhaust using a S manifold on the driver's side. Sent you a PM. Dean

gbody 442

Dean- if it means anything to you I have a good 394 out of a 64 dynamic that I would trade for one of your 425 engines.

Roy

Dean Eechaute

Sorry, easier and cheaper to build a 425 than a 394, besides the 400 tranny works ten times better than the old slim jim slushbox. Besides, I already got the engine combo mounted in this car. Dean

gbody 442

I kinda figured as much, just saw the thread and thought I'd throw it out there. Best of luck with the project I can't wait to see the pics posted on here when it's complete

boliver72

hey my name is Bryan ,i have a 455 and i need a 394 if you would like to swap.

Dean Eechaute

If I had a running 394 I would consider it. Mine was overheated and locked up. Gave it to a local guy that has a 64 Dynamic. Sorry. D

Killian_Mörder

If you happen to find a used cast aluminum pan from a wreck, you could shorten it and rid of the unnecessary 3 extra quarts, weld on a plate, to shut it, and then modify your pick-up tube accordingly: