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First time poster here now that I have taken ownership of my wife's grandfather's 1965 Delta 88. He passed in 1968 and this sat untouched in grandmas garage since then with 17.8k miles on the OD. It was driven and parked last in 1992. Aside from some minor dings and scratches it got in storage (grrrr), it's 100% as it came from the factory. The tires completely rotted flat, so I replaced those to get it rolling.
Since I got it into my garage, I dropped in a fresh battery and have just been geeking out over all the original details. Everything except the clock works. The engine turns over like new and has compression (have not tried to start).
Here is my punch list to startup day.
Drain 25 gallons of 30y/o gas that smells like varnish from a house away
Drop, clean inside and (maybe) line the gas tank.
Rebuild master cylinder (plunger seal deteriorated and leaked onto driver side floor. Thank goodness there's no carpet damage; the original rubber floor mats caught it)
Disassemble and rebuild the 2 barrel Rochester carb (de-gunk insides from varnished gas and use ethanol-proof gaskets/rubber)
Flush all fluids and lines. (However, thanks to Gramp's service records recorded in the owners manual, the oil and trans fluid has 200 miles on it from a few decades ago - it looks, smells and feels new)
Inspect and replace any rubber that shows signs of deterioration or hardness. Amazingly, everything from vacuum hoses to brake lines remain pliant and uncracked. Thank California weather and covered garages, I guess.
Remove and repair radiator - core is seeping from lower left.
I will get more pictures uploaded when I can. Here are a few. Over 30 years here, but nothing heavy was piled on it 425 Ultra High Compression - Rochester 2 barrel Engine will clean up nice with mild soap and TLC Leaving grandma's garage About to enter its new garage Dash and OD (17,850) Fawn interior
Souns like a good plan of attack. I suggest having the OE radiator re-cored, or replace it with a 100% aluminum aftermarket radiator. I recently had trouble with a plastic/aluminum parts store cheapie radiator.
Recore the original if a rad shop can't stop the leak. An aftermarket aluminum radiator has NO business on a car that original. Hard for me to believe anyone even suggested it.
You have a good plan. Rebuild the wheel cylinders while you're about it. I'd also be inclined to replace the brake hoses.
There are Oldsmobile Club of America chapters in both Northern and Southern California as well as several AACA groups. Any of them will welcome you and your time capsule Delta.
Last edited by rocketraider; January 24th, 2023 at 12:31 PM.
Recore the original if a rad shop can't stop the leak. An aftermarket aluminum radiator has NO business on a car that original. Hard for me to believe anyone even suggested it.
@rocketraider Brake lines were a definite "yes, no brainer" - until I saw how perfect they are. I will deeply inspect them again along with all brake hardware and cylinders as well before hitting the road at all. With the single-circuit master cylinder, there's no backup for a burst line or cylinder.
Thanks- I will def will look at a local chapter of OCA!
Wow! That's just gorgeous.
And SOOOOoooooo original.
It should be fun cleaning that up a step at a time.
Get it driving and fall in love with it...then start the other projects.
Good luck!
Very nice! You are very fortunate to have it in the family yet. Your wife’s Grampa would be very proud of you. You are on the right path to keep it as original as possible. A set of the optional wire wheel hub caps would really set it off too!
What a beautiful car and true time capsule! My only suggestion is to only replace the parts that are needed to make it safe and road worthy. Anything that does need replaced I'd try and get NOS parts for the replacement. Then I'd drive it and promote it as a "True Survivor". Best of luck and please send us updated pics as you move forward.
Thank you for sharing with the group and keep the updates coming. Congrats being Grandma and Grandpa's Old Olds new caretaker what an honor, actually a bit rare, lucky their granddaughter found ya. Good for something anyway... Many more smiles left in that car. Enjoy them all
Many here willing to share what they have learned over the years and help out.
My only suggestion is to only replace the parts that are needed to make it safe and road worthy. Anything that does need replaced I'd try and get NOS parts for the replacement. Then I'd drive it and promote it as a "True Survivor".
Thank you - Exactly the plan. Only light cleaning/detailing of the engine compartment and I will polish the lacquer paint because I know it will come back to life amazingly well.
Consider installing a fuel filter before the fuel pump temporarily after rebuilding the carb and cleaning things up. The filters in the carb are small and can clog quickly, plus the less the fuel inlet nut is disturbed the better.
Thank you - Exactly the plan. Only light cleaning/detailing of the engine compartment and I will polish the lacquer paint because I know it will come back to life amazingly well.
That's great! 👍 One final suggestion, I know you said the oil and tranny fluids looked/smelled/felt alright. However, you have a pretty special car there, and if it were mine, I wouldn't take a chance that either the oil or the tranny fluid hasn't degraded some after all that time. For the price of the fluids, filters, and a little labor, I think it would be very prudent to change them both before start-up. Just my 2-cents.
That's great! 👍 One final suggestion, I know you said the oil and tranny fluids looked/smelled/felt alright. However, you have a pretty special car there, and if it were mine, I wouldn't take a chance that either the oil or the tranny fluid hasn't degraded some after all that time. For the price of the fluids, filters, and a little labor, I think it would be very prudent to change them both before start-up. Just my 2-cents.
I agree --- all fluids and filters is low cost insurance at this point. Thanks.
This is truly my happy place.
Carb disassembled and soaked in a mild (eco) diluted degreaser / dish soap mixture. It keeps all the original gold(ish) patina that harsh carb cleaners can remove. For the tag, soap and water only, as its gold coating is easily washed off. A good rebuild kit is on it's way from Mikes Carburetor Parts (nice resource for proper carb parts). Master cyl kit from Summit is behind that.
carb and master mildly cleaned and prepped for rebuild Gold carb tag...still gold....
You may already know this...it will have a THM 400 transmission with a "switch pitch" variable vane torque converter. It's a nice feature, like having two different torque converters built into one.
@Sugar Bear You got me digging and look what I found...
"In the May 1963 CAR LIFE test of a ’64 Starfire with a 394 rated 345hp at 4800rpm and running a 3.42 axle, the old Hydramatic sprinted the quarter mile at 17.2 seconds at 89mph. Gas mileage range was 11-14mpg. An April ‘65 CAR LIFE ’65 Delta 88 with THM 400 variable vane only used a 2bbl carb and single exhaust and was rated 310hp at just 4400rpm. It had about 180lb lower curb weight than the Starfire, but used a far milder 3.08 ratio axle and carried air conditioning, another major disadvantage. Still, it was actually quicker in the quarter with a 17.1 et at 82mph yet MPG range jumped markedly to 13mpg - 16mpg."
I would replace all three rubber brake hoses whether they look good or not, replace or rebuild/sleeve all four brake cylinders. Even with great storage conditions, brake fluid absorbs water and rusts whatever it touches.
Once you start it check the oil and level carefully and often. Sometimes a fuel pump diaphragm leaks and adds fuel to the oil (so the oil level will rise and feel thinner). If that happens you'll have to replace the fuel pump too.
Beautiful car. It's amazing it's so original I've owned three 1966s and worked on several others since 1966. 1965s are mechanically very similar. Glad to answer any questions.
Consider installing a fuel filter before the fuel pump temporarily after rebuilding the carb and cleaning things up. The filters in the carb are small and can clog quickly, plus the less the fuel inlet nut is disturbed the better.
Good luck!!!
Yes , have a filter before the carb on my 425 engines , have seen the tiny threads at the fuel inlet
A filter before the carb can/will help but I'm only comfortable with it before the fuel pump. FWIW, on the pressure side of the pump I'll only use a rigid bent and flared tube.
A filter before the carb can/will help but I'm only comfortable with it before the fuel pump. FWIW, on the pressure side of the pump I'll only use a rigid bent and flared tube.
What great help! Exactly what good forums are all about!
Added to the punch list thanks to y'all's advice:
8, Replace all (3) brake hoses even though they all look great (save the originals) - I found great OE type replacements at Inline Tube.
9. Replace all fluids even though they look new (don't save )
10. Install in-line fuel filter upstream of fuel pump (temporary, or permanent TBD)
11. Forgot to add - remove wheels and drums, inspect brakes and wheel cylinders/rubber (likely replace or rebuild wheel cyls.)
... more to come, and bring 'em on!
When inspecting the brake shoes if they are riveted and have plenty of lining I'd leave them. If they are bonded/glued I'd be concerned about the glue not being any good causing the lining to separate from the shoe, in short I'd replace fifty year old bonded shoes sooner than later.
Brakes of that age may contain asbestos. Protect yourself from airborne particles.
When inspecting the brake shoes if they are riveted and have plenty of lining I'd leave them. If they are bonded/glued I'd be concerned about the glue not being any good causing the lining to separate from the shoe, in short I'd replace fifty year old bonded shoes sooner than later.
Brakes of that age may contain asbestos. Protect yourself from airborne particles.
Good luck!!!
Thanks and I fully agree - I had a bad / dangerous experience with bonded on another vehicle - never again.
January 24th, 2023, 11:29 AM
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