rket56

I was on a trip running smoothly, all gauges normal when the engine quit. The temp gage was at 160 degrees, normal for this setup so it was not overheating. I was on a busy Interstate but managed to coast to the side of the road. The shoulder was very steep so I could not pull over more than the pavement would allow. With only about 4 feet from the side of the car to the traffic, I was not inclined to try and diagnose the problem and I was sure it was probably a fuel problem. I didn't try to restart the car since a) I was sure it was the electric fuel pump that has been the source of past problems, b) why bother since even if it started it might have died again in an even worse place. So, got it on a flatbed, home and in the garage via a towing service provided by my insurance carrier. Ran some tests this afternoon and found the fuse and the pump were working just fine. While checking for spark at one of the plugs, the engine fired. I replaced the plug wire and the engine fired right up. I do have an electronic ignition so could it be the module? I'm currently scratching my head on what to do next. Suggestions appreciated. Thax Chuck

redoldsman

If you have converted to a Pertronix ignition I would take it out and replace it with some good quality points and condenser. Your 56 has external adjustment points so it is easy to work on. I put a 56 distributor in my 54 and it was a great improvement.

RetroRanger

X2 what Glenn said on pertronix....50% of the time, they work every time

oldcutlass

Intermittent issues really suck to cure. You have to basically get it to fail, or start replacing parts. If it died instantly like the key was turned off, it's not fuel related.

redoldsman

You are correct Eric. If it was fuel it would stumble and sputter a little before it completely died.

ignachuck

X3 on that ^^^.

Tri-Carb

Use this one. It Costs more than Pertronix for a reason--it is reliable:

Wiring Conversions and Modifications for Classic & Muscle Cars (lectriclimited.com)

redoldsman

Interesting. I never heard of that company.

Olds64

I converted the points in my 71 98 to an HEI distributor. I mention it only because I keep a spare HEI module in my glovebox. I've had the HEI module in the car fail on the road more than once. When these electronic parts die there's no evidence of failure and your only option is replacement. Like the others said, try some points and see if that gets you on the road. Good luck!

Tri-Carb

It is well known.

Tri-Carb

if you mean a GM HEI like that introduced in 75, it has the big module sitting on top of the cap. They look out place on earlier year model cars. With the Lectric Limited unit, the exterior is the same as stock with no need to bypass the resistor wire. I keep one as a spare. Dwell setting is also eliminated.

joe_padavano

Lectric Limited is well known. Their electronic ignition conversions are not. Given the miniscule number of those currently in use vs. Pertronix, there is no way to know if they are more reliable or not. We only know that there is far less data. Any electronic unit can have workmanship issues that lead to premature failure. Without detailed info on how their module is manufactured and tested, there is no way to know if it is better or worse than any other. The fact that it is less common means that a replacement may take longer to get if it fails on the road.

Tri-Carb

I know a lot of vintage car owners that have used these for 15-20 years, including myself on multiple cars. They are very reliable. I went to this brand after suffering many bad experiences with Pertronix.

joe_padavano

Again, based on a sample size of what?

redoldsman

Neither one of them makes a rats azz to me because I will never run anything but genuine old made in the USA Delco Remy points and condenser.

OLDSter Ralph

x 2

Charlie Jones

x3

Fun71

Technical point: that’s the coil on top of the cap, the module is inside below the rotor and weights.

Tri-Carb

Delco manufactures its ignition parts in China. I assume you are using NOS.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-delco-153028/

Tri-Carb

What is the failure rate per hour of use for points? I will answer this for you. You do not know the answer because no one does. Use points if you like. It is right personal of personal preference. I am just passing on my experience and opinion to the OP.

redoldsman

I actually think the current Delco parts are made in Mexico. I go to ebay and find the original NOS stuff packaged in the orange, black and silver boxes. I carry an extra set in the tool box and also have a uniset. Old points and condenser may not run great but they will not leave you on the side of the road. I have never run the Lectric Limited so I can speak for it. It must be better than Pertronix because it would not take a very big sample size to get some defective Pertronix units.

Tedd Thompson

All of what Glenn said. I like to know what's new and working, but once bit twice smart.... Tedd

therobski

X2 what's wrong with keeping and extra set of points around in the glove box if you are driving the Old Olds somewhat.

Tedd Thompson

Just an afterthought, usually when a module gives it up it is dead never to rise again. You might check all connections from the switch to the module and see if everything is tight, there might be a loose connection or something non-related to the module....Tedd

rket56

I agree that usually when something like a module goes bad, it usually doesn’t fix its self but I found no other cause. I removed the module and put in a new set of points and condenser.

In the process of investigating other causes for the engine quitting I discovered that when I revamped the engine compartment, a change I made could have caused the coil to fail. I remounted the coil to the firewall, but in a horizontal position on the passenger side of the compartment. I believe the original coil was probably epoxy filled and the position wasn’t really an issue. But the new coil that I installed with the electronic ignition module is almost certainly oil filled.

I learned that oil filled coils if mounted horizontally can form a bubble and create a hot spot in the windings, leading to premature failure. So, due to space limitations, I had to move the coil to the opposite side of the engine compartment for vertical mounting. Problem was the wire from the coil to the distributor was now too short. I had to locate and get a new wire from Mallory to make the longer connection, and extend all the other wires to reach the new location.

Another problem was that the existing coil holder, nice looking chrome, ribbed etc. could not be moved. I had installed the a/c unit after the coil holder and the nuts on the other side of the firewall, holding the coil holder were no longer accessible. Solution: Leave the existing coil holder, maybe put the original coil back into it as a spare?

Got a nice chrome clamp for the vertical mounting and hooked everything back up. I ran multi-meter tests on both the old coil and the new oil filled one and both tested nearly the same, both good so I installed the new oil filled one. Engine started immediately, so that’s good.

Think I will put the old coil back in the horizontal holder and put some jumper wires in the trunk long enough to reach from the new coil location, back to the old coil. I’m quite sure there were no loose connections that caused the original engine stoppage. Thanks again for all the input, Chuck

Charlie Jones

The coil originally mounted on the engine between the carb and the RH valve cover .
Perhaps try to find an original bracket and mount the coil there .

rket56

Charlie, thanks for your input. With the custom linkage I have for the 3x2 carb setup the space for the original coil location can no longer be used. That is why I had to move the coil to the firewall in the first place, but again thanks for your effort. Chuck