1yesfan

When I got my car last fall, over the winter, just like 4 or 5 times what I assume is the weep hole on the top right of the WP would pee a little rad fluid or other times I would see some fluid sitting in the hole. It has not done it in about 2 months now. I figure that it is driven now perhaps the seals are holding up now?
Should I mess with it at this point or let it go? I drive the car 3-5x a week (over 7 days). I was planning on sending it out to be rebuilt so I can keep it on the car since it appears to be orig.

oldcutlass

It's needing a water pump. Now would also be a good time to address the timing set if it has never been changed at the same time.

1yesfan

change the timing chain? Why? Never heard of this on a older car with a timing chain. At 69k, does it really need it?

oldcutlass

Because there is a plastic lining on the gear and its 41 years old. Your half way there at this point when you remove the water pump.

MDchanic

This is the first "word to the wise" warning sign.

Easier to change it in the driveway than on the side of the road.

- Eric

MDchanic

At 69,000 miles it probably doesn't need a timing gear yet, but by 80,000 miles they often do, and definitely by 100,000.

If you've got all of that stuff off already, it's just a matter of pulling the balancer and the front plate, and you can install a new (good quality) chain with steel gears, and never have to worry about it again.

- Eric

1yesfan

I assume it is a straightforward pull and replace job? Is it worth having rebuilt vrs getting a reman unit? I would like to keep it orig if having it rebuilt is good as a reman unit.

1yesfan

hum, never done that type of repair before. I don't really have anything to pull the balancer with, then do not know how to set timing.

1yesfan

been driving the car all summer here in Cincy, 3-5 times a week and the WP has not seeped one time. Keeping an eye on it but at this point, aint broke, why fix it!?!?!!?

joe_padavano

Because it WILL break, likely late at night on an interstate, during a thunderstorm. Add the personal danger of being hit by a distracted driver to the large towing bill and then ask yourself the same question.

Water pump seals usually leak because the bearings are going bad. This will not end well.

As for the timing chain, Olds used a cam gear with nylon teeth for quieter running. These teeth wear and by 80,000 miles, they are usually nubs (with the rest in your oil pan). I've gone up to 120,000 miles on a factory timing set, and fortunately it jumped in my driveway (that NEVER happens ). I wouldn't recommend it, as a jumped timing chain can cause collateral, expensive damage.

1yesfan

I don't drive it at night, and if there is a chance of rain it is not driven because the top SUCKS, ha ha ha. I understand ya, just saying she has been really good to me so far.

MDchanic

Yes, and, like a woman, if you are not good to her in return, you will will quickly discover there are teeth where you had not expected to find them.

- Eric

76olds

Ha ha ha, Oh yes and hope to hell they were false teeth.

These guys are giving you sound advice, you can run it till she breaks. The price always goes up when it breaks. Loose a day or 2 pay, towing charges ha ha even missing out on a date night could leave you shakin' more then your head .

I would get a reman pump from a local parts counter, pick up a chain and gears, rent or lend a harmonic puller and these guys will help you do the rest.

76 Regency

I did the pump and chain w/gears on one of my '76 Ninety Eight's and at about 145K, it was the original timing set. Just like mentioned above, the nylon teeth were worn down to nubs and there were TONS of plastic bits in my oil pump's screen. There was a ton of slack in the chain too. After putting on a new timing set, balancer, clearing out the screen, etc...the car runs 1,000 times better and now I have peace of mind too.

1yesfan

Do you have to reset the timing if you do that chain stuff? Well my car has 70k on it. I was planing on sending out my WP and have it rebuilt to keep the car as orig as possible. I was told that can be done and be as good as getting any over the counter unit?

76 Regency

If you have the service manual, it would be a big help.

In short, once you pull the timing cover off, line up the timing marks, remove the chain and gears and put the new ones back in making sure the marks line up the same way as the original set. This will keep the cam and crank synced correctly. Since you're replacing a 40 yr old chain, you will likely need to adjust the timing at the distributor a bit but that's the easiest part of the process, by far!

The Tin Man

You guy are great.... listen to them they KNOW!!!!! change before it brakes

1yesfan

I do have a shop manual. Ha ha ha. I know I should do the pump. Was not planning on doing a timing chain.

1yesfan

I have the wp pump off now. How hard is it going to be to take off the balancer? Where can I find the new timing chain stuff?

1yesfan

see all types of timing chain things on Ebay. Any suggestions to what is best?

1yesfan

When I pulled the pump there is the plate there now, is there a gasket behind that keeping oil from leaking from behind it? It is moving a little at the top where the WP bolts are out. If I pass on the timing chain repair, is the thing going to leak oil now even once the pump is back on if there is a gasket behind it that I have not disturbed on the top part of the plate?

1yesfan

is this the right part# for the t-stat? 131-73 Should I stay stock? 190 or can I go colder?

1yesfan

well replying to my self jere I finally recalled that I DO have a fact serv manual. So I pulled it out. It says not to put a tstat in the car over 195. Mine had a 180 in it. I suspect 180 is not factory and that I should do back to 195.

1yesfan

Had Water Pump Man do my pump. Installed and car is back on the road. Put 195 stat in it. Nice and warm heat now baby.
One odd note after all put back together the pulley that mounts to water pump is wobbly looking when the car is running. Not sure how that is that way now. I did not drop it when things were apart. I have the non clutch fan (no ac car) perhaps I torqued down a fan bolt to hard? Maybe the rebuilder of the pump dropped it on the pulled monter and it is warped.

1yesfan

No leaks yet. that is a good thing