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Wd0502,
You asked about Rear Brake Drums two weeks ago, I happened to respond to you almost immediately..... And I have never heard from you....
Did you abandon the project ????
Craig.....
Some people post and forget to look back for a response. Some might not look back for weeks. (BTW I am the former customer of your grandma's parts store in Valley Stream)
Hey sysmg,
That is Awesome !!!!! Studnick Auto Parts W A S the shrine.... Our customers gave us the moniker "If Studnick's doesn't have it, Nobody does" !!!!!!
Take care, stay warm, and stay healthy .... And thanks again for the shout out....
Yours, Craig....
Craig. No have not abandoned the project. It was a question of curiosity, at least until I get into her and figure out what is what with her for now. You will be the one I call. Yes.... we do have phones here in York county........ My starting point.
Last edited by Wd0502; March 4th, 2021 at 11:54 AM.
BTW. Just so we have a complete record in this thread. Someone on Facebook claimed 70 Pontiac Bonneville rotors would work. Can someone confirm whether those are an option or not?
BTW. Just so we have a complete record in this thread. Someone on Facebook claimed 70 Pontiac Bonneville rotors would work. Can someone confirm whether those are an option or not?
Well, surprise. Someone posted incorrect technical info on FB. I know, you're shocked.
The Pontiac rotors use different outer wheel bearings - A2 for he Poncho, A3 for the Olds. They won't fit the Olds spindles.
I should add that while the Olds rotors are two-piece, the available Pontiac rotors are one piece with integral hubs, so you can't just swap the hubs. And no, you can't put Pontiac spindles on the Olds either. Different suspension, different steering, different ball joints, different tie rods. Common sense should tell you that if it were this easy, it would already be well known.
I knew that was the answer, although I didn't know the details. But just figured this is such a great post that we might as well have everything documented here.
Just found out my ‘66 Starfire with ‘70 front disks have min-spec warped rotors. It’s not fatal since it’s just causing pulsing in the brakes, but it’s not right either.
I have a take-off set from my 98 that are probably in the same condition. I might just squeak by if they’re not warped too, but I’m not too confident of the spare set I have.
Am I off to get Cadillac rotors machined and adapted? Or does anyone have an 69-70 Olds big car set?
Looks like the Wilwood calipers may be a smart move to make at the same time to increase the brake area 10%. Am I reading this right?
Not sure there’s any new news here, I just wanted to capture the 2021 thinking as I go down the path of making the Starfire just right.
Added Redrilled / Machined Caddy Rotors to my '66 Starfire
Resurrecting an old (valuable) thread.
As the title says. Over the early Winter, I had my brake shop send out the Cadillac CTS rotors out to a machinist (who now has the redrilled pattern programmed) and mounted them on my '66 Starfire with '70 big olds front disk brakes.
Using GM factory calipers. It's early days of testing/driving, but it's working. Here and there I'm getting some wheel speed noise which we're chasing down, but overall I'm happy to have nice thick new rotors under foot.
Just wanted to add confirmation that this combination can be done and it's working.
As the title says. Over the early Winter, I had my brake shop send out the Cadillac CTS rotors out to a machinist (who now has the redrilled pattern programmed) and mounted them on my '66 Starfire with '70 big olds front disk brakes.
Using GM factory calipers. It's early days of testing/driving, but it's working. Here and there I'm getting some wheel speed noise which we're chasing down, but overall I'm happy to have nice thick new rotors under foot.
Just wanted to add confirmation that this combination can be done and it's working.
A question about the Cadillac rotors. Are you guys doing anything to the original bolt holes such as filling them once the new holes are drilled? Or is the thought that there's enough metal being tightly held between the wheel and hub that its not likely to crack or fail under pressure? Can you post a picture of a finished rotor setup for our cars?
John
I don’t believe my shop did anything to fill the old holes. I would think of that as a safety risk — the “filler” material might heat/cool differently from the rotor, get loose and make noise or fall out.
Also, it’s been a few miles on my replacement rotors with factory calipers.
They’re working fine, but my brake guy is chasing a persistent loose pad condition. This is not a safety problem but wheel speed noise is annoying.
We’re in custom-land so I’m not at all unhappy or unsurprised there are some teething pains, but wanted to let you all know this can be a problem.
If we can’t fix it with factory calipers, I’ll switch over to Wilwood with any advice Joe has to give.
Joe,
In case you’re still watching, I’m getting a persistent wheel speed squeak on the right side which goes away when I apply light brake pressure. This is the second or third time around with a wheel speed squeak, so it’s beginning to bug me. But I don’t want to overreact. We _are_ in custom-parts & solutions land, so I want to be patient and work the problem with factory parts as a start.
Last time around apparently the squeak / noise was a cracked brand new pad. My brake guy covered it under warranty and replaced ‘em. I kind of don’t want to bother him, just in case this new squeak is something simple I can repair at home, but I’m very wary of working on brakes / suspension since if I get it wrong, something really bad could happen.
If I pull the wheel off, any suggestions about what I shoudl look for? I’m not dying to get into bleeding hydraulics, but if its greasing up the calipers or sanding a pad, I think I can handle that.
Next up, have you been happy with the wilwood aftermarket calipers? If the factory ones won’t settle down and I can get more braking area from wilwood, I’m inclined to go that route. If so, do the wilwood calipers just mount right up to the factory brackets, or is there some more custom work hat needs to be done?
Thanks in advance for any time you can devote here.
Chris
PS: For anyone watching, this solution should work well for 65-70 88’s/ 98’s / Starfires, excepting the Jetstar series.
What is the solution for full front disc brake conversion from drums? I have no disc brake parts at all. Scarebird is not an option. The have sold their business to a company that has yet to make parts available
What is the solution for full front disc brake conversion from drums? I have no disc brake parts at all. Scarebird is not an option. The have sold their business to a company that has yet to make parts available
Find a disc brake setup from a 1969-70 Olds full size. FYI, disc brakes were standard equipment on every 1970 Olds full size. The spindles fit 1965-70 cars. Calipers are readily available. Scroll up for info on the rotors.
February 12th, 2021, 09:46 PM
