What is the trick on dropping the tank?
#2
50 years of gunk? The '63 factory service manual (available for free at wildaboutcars.com, which is free to join) states to simply drain the tank, disconnect the fuel lines, remove the straps, and drop the tank. There is no mention of any other clamps or anything else to be removed.
#5
I would think not. The sending unit and the wire attached to it are attached to the tank so they should come down with the tank. The tank cannot hang from the sending unit wire, and even if were, the wire is certainly not strong enough to prevent a heavy gas tank from falling.
In thinking more about this, I suspect there was some kind of insulation between the top of the tank and the underside of the car when first installed at the factory, and this insulation, over 50 years, may have deteriorated to the point that it is causing the tank to stick to the car. Time for a prybar?
In thinking more about this, I suspect there was some kind of insulation between the top of the tank and the underside of the car when first installed at the factory, and this insulation, over 50 years, may have deteriorated to the point that it is causing the tank to stick to the car. Time for a prybar?
#6
How much does it rock? A quarter of an inch in each direction, or three inches? If the former, I like my idea of the tank being stuck to the car. If the latter, then probably not, and it's hung up on something.
Are you sure it's not the filler neck? When I removed the tank on my '67 Delta, where the filler neck goes rearward and you get at it by lowering the license plate when you want to put gas in the tank, the front end of the tank dropped when I removed the straps, but I then had to slide the tank forward to get the filler neck out and the rear end of the tank to drop.
Are you sure it's not the filler neck? When I removed the tank on my '67 Delta, where the filler neck goes rearward and you get at it by lowering the license plate when you want to put gas in the tank, the front end of the tank dropped when I removed the straps, but I then had to slide the tank forward to get the filler neck out and the rear end of the tank to drop.
#7
Mine goes side to side and I need to slide it to get the filler neck out but it won't slide. My son was under there. 16 years old and not always the most observant. I will put a light on it this morning. I am thinking there is a hook up there to hold it while you are strapping it up.
#10
Be very careful with the rubber piece that goes around the filler neck behind the gas door, it will be seized to the neck and if you rip it you will have gas fumes entering the trunk and then into the car. I learned this the hard way and it took me a long time to fine another one. I sprayed the new one with mooveit and it started moving after a few minutes and would slip right off.
Steve
Steve
#11
Ha! I think you're right. On later cars there was just a second wire coming from the sending unit and attached to the frame. It wouldn't have been enough to prevent the tank from dropping. I kind of wonder why a separate ground strap is needed as you would think the tank itself would be heavily grounded being in contact with and held up by steel straps that are themselves attached to the frame with steel bolts. But whatever. At least you got it down.
#13
sorry about that chief missed you by that much
The blatter as I call it is used on all full size olds and for both 63 and 64 if you can find one in a wrecker that isn't in a hot climate you might luck out.
I found one in an old parts car up here in Canada and haven't seen one since.
You could try an epoxy but I don't know if it would work.
Steve
The blatter as I call it is used on all full size olds and for both 63 and 64 if you can find one in a wrecker that isn't in a hot climate you might luck out.
I found one in an old parts car up here in Canada and haven't seen one since.
You could try an epoxy but I don't know if it would work.
Steve
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May 23rd, 2012 06:00 PM