Battery keeps dying
#1
Battery keeps dying
68 Cutlass Convertible. Battery kept dying, so I took the battery in to the shop and it checked good. Put in the car and put a meter in line and it showed no parasitic current draw. Read that it could be the diode in the alternator so I replaced that. Went away for 2 weeks and the battery was completely dead (wouldn't even light the courtesy lights). I'm installing a quick disconnect tomorrow, but hate opening/closing the hood. Any suggestions on what I'm missing?
#2
Best way to check for draw is with amp meter, either disconnect ground cable and put in line or use one that goes around cable. Digital meter will be more accurate. Does car have a newer stereo that remembers stations?
#6
Depends upon the current drain. My Jeep battery goes dead after a couple weeks of sitting, and it has an aftermarket alarm. A while back I calculated the amount of energy drained from the battery over a 2 week period and was surprised to find it was enough to cause the battery to be depleted enough so the engine wouldn't crank.
I also had issues with the battery draining from the console light staying on, the rear view mirror map light left on, and the dash map light inadvertently turned on when I ran the duster across the dash. Couldn't see that the lights were on in daylight, but it was obvious when taking a look at the car in a dark garage.
I also had issues with the battery draining from the console light staying on, the rear view mirror map light left on, and the dash map light inadvertently turned on when I ran the duster across the dash. Couldn't see that the lights were on in daylight, but it was obvious when taking a look at the car in a dark garage.
Last edited by Fun71; July 9th, 2019 at 07:04 PM.
#7
#10
#11
Don't leave the battery connected in my old cars, use the battery disconnect on negative battery terminal. This type of battery drain is hard to pin down. Do you have light package with under hood/trunk lights?
#12
Whose shop? I'm still suspecting the battery.
How old is the battery? What is the date stamp on the battery?
I do this the old fashioned way.
Do you have a battery acid gauge bulb tester? You can charge a battery to capacity and test a battery fully charged, but if the electrolyte isn't of sufficient ions, or your plates are falling apart, the battery is toast and will slowly lose it's ability to maintain the charge.
You can take a battery to some shops and they'll test the battery (if the person running the test knows how to run the test under load) and they'll say the battery is holding a load. Again, I've had automotive parts store employees not know how to test a battery under load because they simply didn't know how to set the tester up.
I test the battery at full charge. Charge the battery to maximum capacity. Check the battery at full charge - it should read ~13.6V.
Take the car on several rides. Test the battery again. If the alt is working correctly, you should still be ~13.6V. Obviously, if you're far below this in the 11.9 - 12.1 range, the alternator isn't recharging the battery.
Then, test the battery while the engine is running. The alternator should be supplying well above 13.6V to the battery (closer to 14V - 20V).
Then, remove both the + & - battery terminal wires & test the battery daily as it just sits there. Is it holding a full charge over an extended say 48 hour period? If not, the battery is toast.
How old is the battery? What is the date stamp on the battery?
I do this the old fashioned way.
Do you have a battery acid gauge bulb tester? You can charge a battery to capacity and test a battery fully charged, but if the electrolyte isn't of sufficient ions, or your plates are falling apart, the battery is toast and will slowly lose it's ability to maintain the charge.
You can take a battery to some shops and they'll test the battery (if the person running the test knows how to run the test under load) and they'll say the battery is holding a load. Again, I've had automotive parts store employees not know how to test a battery under load because they simply didn't know how to set the tester up.
I test the battery at full charge. Charge the battery to maximum capacity. Check the battery at full charge - it should read ~13.6V.
Take the car on several rides. Test the battery again. If the alt is working correctly, you should still be ~13.6V. Obviously, if you're far below this in the 11.9 - 12.1 range, the alternator isn't recharging the battery.
Then, test the battery while the engine is running. The alternator should be supplying well above 13.6V to the battery (closer to 14V - 20V).
Then, remove both the + & - battery terminal wires & test the battery daily as it just sits there. Is it holding a full charge over an extended say 48 hour period? If not, the battery is toast.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; July 9th, 2019 at 07:45 PM.
#13
#14
a while back i was diagnosing a batt going bad and couldnt get a reading on my meter after much futzing about i found the 2 aforementioned fuses, replaced them and found my current draw....
#15
If the car really has no parasitic draw (which I doubt, the radio memory will pull a few milliamperes, and that would show up on the meter) then unhook the battery. See if the battery goes dead after a week or 2. If it dies with nothing connected, you know the trouble is with the battery.
#17
Thanks all for the inputs.I checked it with a hand held tester that said it was good and then took to PEP Boys to put it on their test machine and the readout said good. Battery is disconnected and showing 12.91v. Will check daily.
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