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Break in- Do's and Don't's/Radiator

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Old July 16th, 2015, 08:42 AM
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Break in- Do's and Don't's/Radiator

Just wanna clear some things up and get some advice.

The install shop is breaking in the motor right now and hopefully I'll have it back today (9.4 355 fresh built). I've heard things like putting a magnet on the filter, keeping it below certain RPMS, changing to 10w-30 @ 500 miles so on so forth.

Also, this radiator I purchased does not fit as it is a few inches too wide. I'll have more details when I get it home and measured but I was surprised to get that phone call.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gr...cutlass-calais

Any advice would be great. Thanks
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Old July 16th, 2015, 09:27 AM
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so, they did what for a radiator during break-in?

Can you re-core the car's original radiator? It would fit right.
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Old July 16th, 2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
so, they did what for a radiator during break-in?

Can you re-core the car's original radiator? It would fit right.
I had them put the old radiator back in. It's nothing special reproduction model that kept the 307 cool no problem.
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Old July 16th, 2015, 10:37 AM
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So why not keep the repro radiator, it would probably work fine. Opinions on a magnate vary, bearing material is none magnetic, the only magnetic particles would be some that were not cleaned out during assembly and generally collect in the filter antway
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Old July 16th, 2015, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
So why not keep the repro radiator, it would probably work fine.
The plan is to have a trans cooler on the car and also have the AC put back on at some point. I figured; larger higher compression motor, 90 * summers, AC, black car etc warranted something more substantial and high performed radiator is a marginal price in comparison.
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Old July 16th, 2015, 10:47 AM
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I've always found that I would rather see if the part works prior to buying a new one, than just changing things. Does this radiator have the trans cooler ports in it? An external trans cooler needs to flow through the radiator anyway as it works to maintain minimum trans temps on cooler days also.
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Old July 16th, 2015, 11:30 AM
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I'm very skeptical of the term "direct fit"-the count is 0 for 2 here. The auto trans passenger side tank is larger to allow for the cooler which changes the saddles.
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Old July 16th, 2015, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BOSS83
The plan is to have a trans cooler on the car and also have the AC put back on at some point. I figured; larger higher compression motor, 90 * summers, AC, black car etc warranted something more substantial and high performed radiator is a marginal price in comparison.
It seems to me that sometimes people overthink the cooling thing, in favor of "tricks", which in turn compromise an otherwise fine factory system. Trans cooler why? The in-radiator one will be sufficient unless you're towing a massive trailer in the mountains. 9.4:1 isn't really high CR. 90 degree+ summers are typical in most of the CONUS. Black car? I'll leave that one alone. A factory-style radiator that fits, a 180 degree thermostat, a clutch fan and shroud, a lower hose with a spring in it, and a quality temperature gauge to keep tabs are the only things you should need. FWIW, I run a 60/40 coolant/distilled water mix. I used to run 205-210 degrees consistently with a 307 radiator and a 195 thermostat. This is a 9.8:1 455. Swapped in a 180 thermostat, and now run 190-195 consistently, with occasional ventures up to 205 on the hottest days in bumper-to-bumper traffic.

As for break-in, other than the common wisdom, some have said that some short bursts followed by coasting are helpful. I doubt this does much, but probably doesn't hurt. You'll run hotter initially, this is expected. Don't run too hot for too long, but 220 degrees shouldn't be terrifying. If you start to trend higher, maybe take a break and let it cool down. And make sure you're using the oils recommended by the shop, with sufficient zinc.
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Old July 17th, 2015, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Intragration
It seems to me that sometimes people overthink the cooling thing, in favor of "tricks", which in turn compromise an otherwise fine factory system. Trans cooler why? The in-radiator one will be sufficient unless you're towing a massive trailer in the mountains. 9.4:1 isn't really high CR. 90 degree+ summers are typical in most of the CONUS. Black car? I'll leave that one alone.

.

All fair points. I guess I figured cooler is always better when you're sitting at a stop light and basic economics suggest that a $248.00 hedge to protect a 4,500 dollar investment makes sense. I'm not saying that is right or wrong, just my position at the time and I was incorrect. Live and learn.

Also.
A black object absorbs all wavelengths of light and reflects none. Objects that are white, on the other hand, reflect all wavelengths of light and therefore absorb the least heat. I'm not going get into a science debate because there isn't one black=more heat regardless of the impact on internal motor temperature the engine bay will retain more heat.
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Old July 17th, 2015, 08:33 AM
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Didn't Myth Busters have an espisode where they did the whole white car and black car bit?
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Old July 17th, 2015, 02:27 PM
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"SPINOFF: A black car heats up faster than an identical white car. (From Pilot 2)
CONFIRMED
A fan wrote in and asked a follow up question: "Does the color of a car affect the way it heats up?". The MythBusters used two identical cars, one black the other white and left them both out in the summer heat with thermometers in both. By mid-afternoon the black car had heated up to a temperature of 135 °F while the white car topped off at 126 °F, almost 10 degrees cooler."


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...98197061,d.aWw

also

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...98197061,d.aWw
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