Cutlass bogs down
#1
Cutlass bogs down
I have a 455 cutlass. Before it had a small misfire if I held it at a steady rpm. The timing was set really high. So I set it to 40 overall, it runs great. But now the throttle is not responsive at all and when it tries to go it bogs like it isn't getting gas, anyone know what it could be?
#3
Yes, so I drove my car awhile before changing anything, when I would hold it at a steady rpm you could hear and feel a small misfire. But the throttle was very responsive and it has power right away. So I checked all over the Internet at what timing people out there car at. So I set the timing to 40 with vacuum advance. It runs amazing, sounds great at idle. But now when I put the pedal to the floor, it gets about halfway down before the car even wants to go, and when it does go, it bogs down like it's not getting gas or something.
#4
So am I understanding that you set the timing to 40º with the vacuum advance still connected? If so, your base timing could be WAY too low.
More questions:
What kind of distributor do you have?
Does it have the factory weights/center bar?
Does it have the factory vacuum canister?
I ask these questions because the timing parameters differ between points and HEI, and there are a variety of vacuum advance canisters that provide various amounts of vacuum advance.
A typical setup should be total timing (initial + mechanical) around 32-36 at ~3000-3500 RPM with the vacuum advance DISCONNECTED, then a vacuum canister that gives ~10º advance.
More questions:
What kind of distributor do you have?
Does it have the factory weights/center bar?
Does it have the factory vacuum canister?
I ask these questions because the timing parameters differ between points and HEI, and there are a variety of vacuum advance canisters that provide various amounts of vacuum advance.
A typical setup should be total timing (initial + mechanical) around 32-36 at ~3000-3500 RPM with the vacuum advance DISCONNECTED, then a vacuum canister that gives ~10º advance.
#5
So am I understanding that you set the timing to 40º with the vacuum advance still connected? If so, your base timing could be WAY too low.
More questions:
What kind of distributor do you have?
Does it have the factory weights/center bar?
Does it have the factory vacuum canister?
I ask these questions because the timing parameters differ between points and HEI, and there are a variety of vacuum advance canisters that provide various amounts of vacuum advance.
A typical setup should be total timing (initial + mechanical) around 32-36 at ~3000-3500 RPM with the vacuum advance DISCONNECTED, then a vacuum
canister that gives ~10º advance.
More questions:
What kind of distributor do you have?
Does it have the factory weights/center bar?
Does it have the factory vacuum canister?
I ask these questions because the timing parameters differ between points and HEI, and there are a variety of vacuum advance canisters that provide various amounts of vacuum advance.
A typical setup should be total timing (initial + mechanical) around 32-36 at ~3000-3500 RPM with the vacuum advance DISCONNECTED, then a vacuum
canister that gives ~10º advance.
I'm pretty sure it's an mad distributor, and the other questions I'm not really sure, I haven't taken it apart. And I'm confused because it is a very big difference from before. Without vacuum advance I think it's between 18-22
#7
#8
Ok, the timing is set to 32 with the vacuum advanced disconnected! Which makes it 60 something total. Now that I did that, it is really responsive and powerful. But there is still a small surge or misfire when I hold it at a steady rpm. I have brand new plugs and 8mm wires that I put in today. So I'm confused on why it has a small misfire still. I adjusted the carb, checked the choke and everything I could think of. Now I'm stumped on why it has such a small misfire.
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July 1st, 2012 02:00 PM