When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I changed the standard master cylinder to power brake booster om my 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible. That was fun. Next step, drums to disc on the front. I'm on driver side and so far I have bought 2 different coil spring compressors, and both have failed. Needless to say, I can't get the spindles off. I am in desperate need of quality information. I am not a master mechanic, I am a very decent do it yourself guy at the age of 65. I don't like failing. Please help.
Support the car by the frame on jack stands and let the suspension hang. Put a jack under the lower A-arm and jack it up an inch or so to take the weight off the lower ball joint. Separate the upper ball joint. Separate the lower ball joint and remove the spindle. You don't even have to remove the spring as long as you leave the jack under the lower A-arm. No need for spring compressors unless you are changing them, even then, just let the lower A-arm drop and the spring should pop-out.
When you say "changed the standard master cylinder to power brake booster" Do you mean you replaced the drum twin reservoir master to a disc big n small reservoir master on the same power booster?
I've always used the jack stand hydraulic jack method too. Safety first.
Make sure all the energy is released off the spring. Dont stand in front of it while the jack is lowering... It can kill am man.
Be prepared to do the control arm (CA) bushings and BJs while your in there.
Chances are they need it...at least look...MAW....its apart. Same for the steering linkage.
A pickle fork will ruin the joints and the boots.
If I'm attempting to reuse a BJ or rod end I use an air hammer vertically on the taper shaft...pro move. I don't like the smack the knuckle method to release the taper. But it works.
Mark each upper CA shim and put them right back in the same spot. The alignment shop will appreciate it. Get the updated alignment. Do go with the spec in the book.
The new front soft lines will need the disc brake line frame brackets.
I have tried that to no avail. The upper and lower are the original design but look new. The upper will not budge. I ve tried YouTube videos, but they do t seem to work
When you say "changed the standard master cylinder to power brake booster" Do you mean you replaced the drum twin reservoir master to a disc big n small reservoir master on the same power booster?
I've always used the jack stand hydraulic jack method too. Safety first.
Make sure all the energy is released off the spring. Dont stand in front of it while the jack is lowering... It can kill am man.
Be prepared to do the control arm (CA) bushings and BJs while your in there.
Chances are they need it...at least look...MAW....its apart. Same for the steering linkage.
A pickle fork will ruin the joints and the boots.
If I'm attempting to reuse a BJ or rod end I use an air hammer vertically on the taper shaft...pro move. I don't like the smack the knuckle method to release the taper. But it works.
Mark each upper CA shim and put them right back in the same spot. The alignment shop will appreciate it. Get the updated alignment. Do go with the spec in the book.
The new front soft lines will need the disc brake line frame brackets.
never had a power booster, just a master cylinder.
I've tried the jack raising the the lower control arm up. The upper would not budge. The front end parts do not look old.
never had a power booster, just a master cylinder.
I've tried the jack raising the the lower control arm up. The upper would not budge. The front end parts do not look old.
Put it back together and leave the nuts tightened just enough to be level with the top of the ball joint. Lower the jack slightly until there is no pressure on it. It down 1/8th of an inch or so is okay. Take a brass hammer and smack the ball joint. It will break free and the nut will prevent it from dropping all the way. I did the upper first and then the lowers. The jack is just there as a safety. Then slightly put pressure back onto the control arm and unscrew the ball joints. Lower the jack slowly and it will all come apart. Be careful to pay attention to the lower ball joint catching on the backplate of the drum brakes. It can cause an issue sometimes. My passenger side had that problem at first. The bushings and everything are so cheap that you might as well just replace them while you're in there if you have access to a press. It's mainly just labor and then you know for sure what's under it. I just replaced everything a couple weeks ago. Be careful finding the alignment shop. They will all tell you that they can do it but then you get there and they have no clue what to actually do.
I've never understood the "wail on it with a BFH" redneck approach to repairing cars. Obviously a pickle fork will separate the ball joints, but it will damage the grease boots in the process. If you plan to reuse those parts that "look new" then I'd suggest a ball joint separator the way the factory recommends. Kent-Moore J-8806 is the correct jackscrew-type tool that easily separates the ball joints without trauma or damage. These are available used on ebay, but not all the time. You can also get aftermarket clones of this tool for about $30.
I've never had a ball joint, tie rod end, etc not come out when I would wack the spindle/ball joint mount with a hammer.
If you use the tool Joe referenced above, some bangs on the spindle where the ball joint goes into the spindle will help out also.
May 7th, 2024, 03:07 PM
