Dan Wirth

I have been considering some lifting options for my car(s).

The best option (if there's room) and IMO is a decent rack lift. I'm told they are about $3000 installed. But a little out of my space limitations and I would definitely hear about getting one -forever - from you know who.

But another possibility is the small steel ramps that you see in the auto stores - which give about 8" more of floor to car clearance. The cost is about $100 for a pair. Probably should also buy rear tire blocks to go with this option, for safety sake.

Then there's the hydraulic racing jack option. Using one of these until you place HD stationary jacks in place while working on the car.

Any other options you can think of, and which one would you choose and why?

Wasted

If you have the space for a 2 post lift look on Craiglists. Alot of car garages are going out of business and trying to sell all the tools cheap. I found a 2 post for $900(I think it cost around $2400 new) just a couple months ago. All I need is some cement poured in my yard and Ill have that sucker installed.

If you dont have the space for a lift,Ive heard about people welding two rims stacked on top of each other and just placing them under all four wheels. This way should give you more room then the ramps. Of course this doesn't look as nice but still gets the job done

mugzilla

I would use four jackstands ...

or two ramps and two jackstands at the rear ...

You will have room and you can lift the 3rd member or other suspended parts, and remove tires ...

Instead of a crawler I like to lay on cardboard and the cardboard sucks up spills ...

I am doing this soon myself ...

Yellowstatue

I am just as happy out on the driveway with a couple of floor jacks in the warmer weather sliding around in the dirt and gravel, but I have a drive on hoist with a belly lift to get the wheels off the lift when the weather is unsuitable for soaking up the suns rays...I only have a nine foot ceiling but three feet of ground clearance is enough to do a grease, oil and filter...I paid about $1100. and $300. for installation...used of course...this thing came out of a F--d dealership and had extensions on it to do limosines, which I took off because my garage is too short....the new '57 with a connie kit just barely fits in and I have to squeeze my ankles through the space between the bumper and the door to get past...

Oldsguy

I had some ramps when I was younger. If you can get over the apprehension of driving almost blind up them, even with a spotter they hold a car well but the drawback was the space they occupied compared to jackstands. Just try working near the transmission with those things in the way....

Nilsson

Been considering one of these, anybody used one or seen one in action?



http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm

Dan Wirth

Creative.

Also creative.


I think you got a good deal here with your lift. Wish I had the inside room for one, they are ideal.

I've given some thought to space limitations with the ramps - but I like the convenience. Would certainly have to get used to driving up on them - but would hate to drive up too far - unless there is some kind of a safety "net" at the end. Using a spotter would be necessary IMO.

This is a great option - although not cheap. Lots of manual labor associated, but parts can be moved around until needed - good for space constraints. I like that you can keep the ramp in tact on the floor and simply drive up on it to park - also may be good for quick work underneath with just the ramps. Their price for a hydraulic jack is way too high - can get a 3 ton for about $100 at the local auto store.


Thanks for all your replies.

jeffreyalman

put the ramps up toward the wall at the front, hang a pillow, and stop before you hear glass break, dryfitting it before using will help with fore and aft placement, also, a mirror on the floor along the left wall would help:

citcapp

I am considering this because on my low garage ceiling. 4' is better the nothing and you can use a rolling stool. price isn't bad either. http://www.maxjaxusa.com/ You can find them on the internet for 1950.00 with shopping around maybe even less

dan2286

I have always used these ramps my grandpa made who knows how long ago. He pretty much just stacked a bunch of 2x10s that were a few inches shorter than the last one to make a ramp. I don't know if they are better than steel ramps, but I can say they probably have no limit to how much weight they can hold. I also use a jack and jack stands depending on what I am doing. If I had the money and my own place, there would be a two post lift in the driveway, or garage if it was tall enough.

gearheads78

If I did not have space for a lift I would have one of these. I would like to have one anyway for the other side of my shop. I had a chance to buy one for $600.00 a few months back. It was real hard not to dig deep and go pick it up.

Dan Wirth

I like the mirror idea on the floor - could save you in a pinch with no spotter around.

Another option that I like, but it's getting closer to the space constraints of the larger lifts. Definitely a decent price.

BOOWAH

I always used the ramps to change my oil until 4 years ago when disaster struck. I was driving my 72 up on them next to the curb in the street when the one nearest the curb collapsed. With the road being crowned, the left side ramp had lifted off on the outside putting all the weight on the inside edge, causing it to fail. It wound up jammed beneath the control arm while the opposite ramp kicked out sideways denting the rocker panel moulding. Never again! Now I jack it up with the hydraulic and slip jackstands beneath the frame.

mondi1962

I did allot of research on this and I came up with this portable lift.
I like it because it leaves most of the underside open so you can do tranny work. Plus you can do tire work without using other jacks.
Heres some videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-e0gbT-RF8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E6dIPaNWUM

This is where I bought it:
http://www.pacetools.com/Products/VMR-6SP

Jamesbo

Will it stop half the way up and LOCK or does it have to be fully extended?

mondi1962

Yes. I believe it has 3-4 saftey latch points. (clicks when going up)
It has an air lock release that needs to be hooked up to a small compressor or air tank.

Jamesbo

Sorry ole buddy,

I like mondi1962 system more better. I'd be driving over those "permanent" anchor bolts all the time and getting flats.

Olds64

Those are alot of good options. I need to get myself one of those low rise systems. I have a big garage but not big enough for a full sized lift.

citcapp

You don't have bolts sticking up if you use concrete inserts and grade 8 bolts. the inserts are flush with the floor

Jamesbo

Re read the article and I now [finally] think I get it. But I still like his system more better. There's one fer sale on Craig's list for $1000 only 35 miles away. Send me a check and I'll pick it up fer ya and hold it til you leave the flooding and come to the sunny south.

I really did see some fat dude weather guy say, It's com'in up a cloud out thar and ya'll are fix'in to get hit directly.

[Translation; You area of the country is soon going to get pounded with rain/storms]

Be safe and stay dry.

stlbluesbrother

My brother is seeking a storage lift for his home garage and is considering this company. http://www.rhilifts.com/products/parking/ You'd have to have high clearance from the ceiling. I'm not sure if this lift is ideal for working on a car, but it offers an option for comparison.

mondi1962

This is true. But you have to make sure that they are installed correctly and that your concrete is a certain thickness.
And not easily moved unless you drill more holes.

The scissor lift is not really easy to move but I have done it myself.
You can roll it outside if you need more room to work if you have a concrete driveway.

I have noticed that if the floor its on is not perfectly level it can become slightly unstable and one lower side can lower a little faster.
Also you have to watch not too crush exhausts, fuel lines, gas tanks if its not centered on some cars. It does come with 4 thin and 4 thicker rubber blocks to help make contact with lift points.

It's not perfect but works very well for me.

citcapp

All things being equal I prefer the two post lift over all others because of the total access to everthing. Changing tires, brake and axle work transmission work, driveline, etc. I do not need it for storage. In a perfect world I would like both a two and four post for different reasons.

68conv455

I've been using what I call a poor mans lift on and off for years (for significant projects).
Using my large craftsman jack, I jack a wheel (or wheels on rear) and go to the end of the jacks travel, then insert blocks of wood under the tire (or tires on rear). After I re-set the jack and place a block of wood on it, I continue to raise the car until the wheel (wheels) are high enough to slip a car ramp under them. I make sure to oppose the ramps so the stops will never allow the car to roll off. Obviously, you need two sets of ramps to accomplish this. Both my sets are heavy duty, and the ramp section detaches so I only use the under wheel portion. Very effective, provides good access, and I believe very safe. At first, I was a little apprehensive about raising a car so high with a floor jack. It passed after a few times. If the wheels need to be off, I go with four jackstands. I also prefer the cardboard method to my creeper. It is smooth, it insulates me from floor dust and cold, and of course, sucks up any leaks if they should happen.
If I'm only doing an oil change, I drive the car onto a small home-made wood ramp (only about 3+" high) It is just enough to reach under and get the job done quickly.
My dream garage, will be three bays, a bend pack 4 post in one, a bend pack 2 post in one, and the third bay will have a loft overhead.

442garage

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=35433

Check this out!

Les

Jamesbo

Les,

I hate that site. It makes me pea green with envy

citcapp

I am struggling with the lift issue because of my tiny garage. I want one but then I lose a lot of room if I install it. Damn if you do damn if you don't is the old saying.

PS I hate that site as well.

mugzilla

Sometimes I look around for a curb the right height and drive one side of the car up on the curb ...

Dan Wirth

Quite frankly, the thought of working under a 5000+ lb car scares the hell out of me. But it simply needs to be done at some point in time, unless you plan on using a mechanic for every little thing. So it's belly up to the bar for me, cause I ain't gonna do that.

I liked the small metal ramp idea best until BOOWAH's reply. Yikes...I hope he wasn't under his car when that happened. It make sense to keep your car on very flat surfaces when using any lifting device.

Yellowstatue

I haven't used small metal ramps for a while, but when I did they used to slide forward on me when I was trying to drive up on them on smooth concrete...

wolfman98

Yeah they really suck on concrete unless you have predrilled holes that you can bolt them in place. I have 4 hydraulic car jacks and 6 jackstands , partly cause I used to have 2 old cars that I was working on but now that my brothers car is sold and out of my hair everything is devoted to the Olds.

Dan Wirth

Yep, I can see that happening - just another aggrevation.

There's a 3 ton hydraulic jack for sale at Harbor Freight Tools, with lights that beam upwards from the round flat piece on the extension arm. Cost is only $89. That, along with two jack stands should do it.

But I sure like those lifts examples in the previous replies!