Rusty Fuel Tank
July 14th, 2008, 08:21 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ridgcrest, CA
Posts: 16
Rusty Fuel Tank
Gday,
Does anyone know the best way to clean a rusty fuel tank? I have a 56 S88. I am in two minds as to wether I clean the fuel tank or just buy a new one. If I end up buying a new one does anyone know a good web site to buy a tank for an Olds? Thanks for your help in advance!!
Does anyone know the best way to clean a rusty fuel tank? I have a 56 S88. I am in two minds as to wether I clean the fuel tank or just buy a new one. If I end up buying a new one does anyone know a good web site to buy a tank for an Olds? Thanks for your help in advance!!
July 14th, 2008, 04:14 PM
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ditto. I had leaking gas tank (around the filler neck). Learned the same thing as Jamesbo tells you. My service shop took the tank out, sent it to the rad shop for rebrazing. Naturally, they clean out the tank out first so they don`t blow up real good when the light the torch. Didn`t cost much either. Mostly labor.
On a tank that`s 52 years old I would get it cleaned out just on principles. There`s bound to be crud from the years sitting as sludge in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is really rusty, that could also be a real bad sign of deterioration. Don`t sand blast it whatever you do. Saw a neat thing on TV Sunday. Instead of media blasting, you can clean paint, crud, rust etc using a (believe it) baking soda solution under high pressure. You need a good size tank and compressor to keep the pressure up though. It`s eco friendly, leaves a very smooth finish, and doesn`t damage metal. The residue actually acts as an inhibitor until you can clean it off and spray on a sealing agent.
On a tank that`s 52 years old I would get it cleaned out just on principles. There`s bound to be crud from the years sitting as sludge in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is really rusty, that could also be a real bad sign of deterioration. Don`t sand blast it whatever you do. Saw a neat thing on TV Sunday. Instead of media blasting, you can clean paint, crud, rust etc using a (believe it) baking soda solution under high pressure. You need a good size tank and compressor to keep the pressure up though. It`s eco friendly, leaves a very smooth finish, and doesn`t damage metal. The residue actually acts as an inhibitor until you can clean it off and spray on a sealing agent.
July 14th, 2008, 04:36 PM
#4
Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,468
If you're willing to risk it on your own.....
I clean out old rusty motorcycle tanks with Muriatic acid and ball bearings.
Just pour em both in and shake the living crap out of it.
www.por-15.com also has tank repair systems for the do it yourself-er.
I clean out old rusty motorcycle tanks with Muriatic acid and ball bearings.
Just pour em both in and shake the living crap out of it.
www.por-15.com also has tank repair systems for the do it yourself-er.
July 15th, 2008, 07:58 AM
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
J-(Chicago)
The POR site shows some really neat products. Have you used them for anything, and are they as good as they claim? Rust is the nastiest 4 letter word I know in car lingo. If this stuff looks and works as good as they say, I'm impressed, because they claim you don't even have to sand before application. (their picture of the battery tray restoration is neat, but that sure looks like a new tray in the last picture)
The POR site shows some really neat products. Have you used them for anything, and are they as good as they claim? Rust is the nastiest 4 letter word I know in car lingo. If this stuff looks and works as good as they say, I'm impressed, because they claim you don't even have to sand before application. (their picture of the battery tray restoration is neat, but that sure looks like a new tray in the last picture)
July 15th, 2008, 09:24 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Allan,
I have used the POR15 and it seems too be good stuff. I have a few before and after pics in the link in my sig (including battery tray).
Just read the instructions on their site about their different products and follow them well. I did and had good results.
The plain POR15 stuff is not like paint. It is more closely resembles an epoxy that you apply with a brush. After 2-3 coats, it is very thick. It can even replace missing metal in small holes.
It can be applied directly to rust and it penetrates and bonds well. I would get the loose rust and dirt out and wash, but no sanding to bare metal is needed.
It is does not dry as "hard" as they claim, but there has to be some degree of elasticity I suppose. It does bond well though.
It makes a great water barrier after application. I used it in the doors and quarters, as rust was beginning (and now ended!)
I also used the chassiscote black on the cowl and the battery tray areas and lower radiator support. This is more of a top coat. If there is rust, the plain POR15 is used first.
I used the POR Patch in the tube for sealing rust holes (use masking tape backers) and for the trunk weatherstrip channel.
POR15 is much like cancer treatment for cars. Expensive, but worth it.
But if you get any on your skin, you will be wearing it for 2 weeks or more!
I have used the POR15 and it seems too be good stuff. I have a few before and after pics in the link in my sig (including battery tray).
Just read the instructions on their site about their different products and follow them well. I did and had good results.
The plain POR15 stuff is not like paint. It is more closely resembles an epoxy that you apply with a brush. After 2-3 coats, it is very thick. It can even replace missing metal in small holes.
It can be applied directly to rust and it penetrates and bonds well. I would get the loose rust and dirt out and wash, but no sanding to bare metal is needed.
It is does not dry as "hard" as they claim, but there has to be some degree of elasticity I suppose. It does bond well though.
It makes a great water barrier after application. I used it in the doors and quarters, as rust was beginning (and now ended!)
I also used the chassiscote black on the cowl and the battery tray areas and lower radiator support. This is more of a top coat. If there is rust, the plain POR15 is used first.
I used the POR Patch in the tube for sealing rust holes (use masking tape backers) and for the trunk weatherstrip channel.
POR15 is much like cancer treatment for cars. Expensive, but worth it.
But if you get any on your skin, you will be wearing it for 2 weeks or more!
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; July 15th, 2008 at 09:29 AM.
July 15th, 2008, 02:07 PM
#8
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 15,993
Rob! NO WAY! I am going to have silver and blue flecks all over my hands for the next two weeks! 
I just painted my engine with the POR 15 kit this weekend. Very messy (even with gloves and a respirator) but it turned out GREAT! I highly recommend this stuff.
I belive Oldsguy used their fuel tank kit and liked the results. I can't remember if he did it for his 46 or his 69 Delta 88 he sold.
I just painted my engine with the POR 15 kit this weekend. Very messy (even with gloves and a respirator) but it turned out GREAT! I highly recommend this stuff.
I belive Oldsguy used their fuel tank kit and liked the results. I can't remember if he did it for his 46 or his 69 Delta 88 he sold.
July 15th, 2008, 02:22 PM
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
HI Rob! Nice to talk with you again. A few pics??? That's a wonderful collection of detail on your car.
Thanks for the info on POR, I'm glad it worked for you. Hearing success stories like this helps build confidence in the product.
When you installed the U21 rallye pac, did you also get the Fasten seat belt pod that mounts on the dash? Didn't see any pics showing the top of the dash. Really like the attention to details like putting new wiper/top faceplates on. I never would have thought of using the defog on the AC control panel for heated seats. Oh well. But, my car does have the heated rear glass option.
Thanks for the info on POR, I'm glad it worked for you. Hearing success stories like this helps build confidence in the product.
When you installed the U21 rallye pac, did you also get the Fasten seat belt pod that mounts on the dash? Didn't see any pics showing the top of the dash. Really like the attention to details like putting new wiper/top faceplates on. I never would have thought of using the defog on the AC control panel for heated seats. Oh well. But, my car does have the heated rear glass option.
July 31st, 2008, 11:40 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Dang, I missed these posts somehow... -Glad it resurfaced!
Olds64, are your hands still silver and blue?
Not sure if the engine color kit are as permanent on the skin as the regular stuff. Do they have the Olds gold? I need to check on this, as my 350 needs to get repainted next spring when the A/C system is out at Classic Auto Air.
Allan, thanks... I took about a thousand pictures so far, as it is too easy with digital.
I do plan to print the ones on the web and assemble it into a photo diary that I can display with the car at shows. I am working on it now...
I did not get the seat belt light, as I did not have the courage to drill a hole in the (almost) perfect dash pad. If I run across a light, i may get it in case I change my mind.
Yea, details are my thing... I am an imperfect perfectionist in ways.
Everything I did to improve the car made the lesser things more notable.
Those switch plates made a huge difference. These are also items that vary in price widely. Mine came from the Parts Place.
I just bought another A/C fan switch and put it in the defrost switch slot, as I wanted another switch for future use. The guy who will be restoring my seats this fall said the seat heaters would only cost an extra 200, so i may do it. I plan for Lady to be my vacation and retirement car, and I DO love traveling to cooler climates. I also plan to drive a lot with the top down, warm OR cold!
So you say you have a heated backlite in your convertible? I never saw it as an option on the 72 'verts - it was coupe or sedan only... There are provisions in the sheetmetal for the defrost blower, but I did not see that as an option on the Olds either. The body or assy manual does show it though... If I find one off a Buick or Chevy, I may consider getting it, although I may never use it!
Ozzy, glad you got your tank fixed - looks like we know the cure for gas tank cancer, now... Thanks for the testomonies - experience really does prove the product!
Olds64, are your hands still silver and blue?
Not sure if the engine color kit are as permanent on the skin as the regular stuff. Do they have the Olds gold? I need to check on this, as my 350 needs to get repainted next spring when the A/C system is out at Classic Auto Air. Allan, thanks... I took about a thousand pictures so far, as it is too easy with digital.
I do plan to print the ones on the web and assemble it into a photo diary that I can display with the car at shows. I am working on it now...
I did not get the seat belt light, as I did not have the courage to drill a hole in the (almost) perfect dash pad. If I run across a light, i may get it in case I change my mind.
Yea, details are my thing... I am an imperfect perfectionist in ways.
Everything I did to improve the car made the lesser things more notable.
Those switch plates made a huge difference. These are also items that vary in price widely. Mine came from the Parts Place.
I just bought another A/C fan switch and put it in the defrost switch slot, as I wanted another switch for future use. The guy who will be restoring my seats this fall said the seat heaters would only cost an extra 200, so i may do it. I plan for Lady to be my vacation and retirement car, and I DO love traveling to cooler climates. I also plan to drive a lot with the top down, warm OR cold!
So you say you have a heated backlite in your convertible? I never saw it as an option on the 72 'verts - it was coupe or sedan only... There are provisions in the sheetmetal for the defrost blower, but I did not see that as an option on the Olds either. The body or assy manual does show it though... If I find one off a Buick or Chevy, I may consider getting it, although I may never use it!
Ozzy, glad you got your tank fixed - looks like we know the cure for gas tank cancer, now... Thanks for the testomonies - experience really does prove the product!
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; July 31st, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
July 31st, 2008, 02:17 PM
#12
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 15,993
Looking at my hands today I can still see a little silver around my finger nails. That is it.
BTW, POR 15 does have the Olds Gold color. I am not sure how it matches the original, but I would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to paint their engine that color. The spray paint can't compare to the POR 15.
BTW, POR 15 does have the Olds Gold color. I am not sure how it matches the original, but I would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to paint their engine that color. The spray paint can't compare to the POR 15.
July 31st, 2008, 02:34 PM
#13
Past Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,039
Rob! NO WAY! I am going to have silver and blue flecks all over my hands for the next two weeks!
I just painted my engine with the POR 15 kit this weekend. Very messy (even with gloves and a respirator) but it turned out GREAT! I highly recommend this stuff.
I belive Oldsguy used their fuel tank kit and liked the results. I can't remember if he did it for his 46 or his 69 Delta 88 he sold.
I just painted my engine with the POR 15 kit this weekend. Very messy (even with gloves and a respirator) but it turned out GREAT! I highly recommend this stuff.
I belive Oldsguy used their fuel tank kit and liked the results. I can't remember if he did it for his 46 or his 69 Delta 88 he sold.
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