Rebuilding air conditioning system on Cutlass
#1
Rebuilding air conditioning system on Cutlass
Since temps in Atlanta are staying in the 90's and I want to drive my '72 Cutlass (350 ci / 4bbl. Qjet with 191,343 mi.) more often this hot summer, I would appreciate any help on how to go about getting my air conditioning system working again. The car has sat in my garage for most of the last 18 yrs and driven only about 250 mi. since I got it running again 2 1/2 yrs. ago. I have not converted to new refrigerant system and still have 3 cans of old R12 refrigerant sitting in my garage closet all these yrs.-would they still be any good? Am I probably looking at having to replace the compressor and receiver/drier ($235 remanu GM and $56 at Year One) and possibly other parts or is it likely recharging system with my R12 refrigerant might get it going again-wishful thinking on my part, I'm sure. Year One has a lot of these air conditioning parts, but they are really pricey! Is it possible it may be as simple as replacing the compressor clutch ($139 at Year One)and recharging system? I could take it to a garage, but I have found it difficult to find anyone who knows how to work on these old cars. Thanks for any help with my getting started in the right direction toward a cooler ride!
#2
My technician has replaced two A6 compressors w/R12 on the Silver Bullet. Both failed, but not from his installation. Bad NEW compressors. He did everything right. Compressor company will not warranty the second one. The A6 weighs 32 lbs, and will freeze a house. No one makes conversion kit for Sanyko/Sanden compressor (lighter, almost as efficient). R12 is best. R134A is about 85-90% as efficient, and builds higher head pressures. If there were any way, I would go w/the original set up: for looks, originality, and efficiency. Lotsa' luck. Right now we are looking at fabbing bracketry (have purchased a "kit" for a Sanden compressor) to mount to the 350 in the SB. Will advise, if we ever get started on it. Meanwhile, just running with the windows down, and driving fast, here in Texas. Tomorrow is the 1st 100 degree day forecast. Summer, here we come.
#3
I fixed my 65...bought a rebuilt compressor and a new drier...installed no big deal...added the required amount of oil as per the shop manual and then used an R12 subsitute that comes in cans...under numerous brand names...I used Duracool..the kit comes with a guage...works great now...
#4
You are not alone in wishing for working A/C!
I have been contemplating this also.
My 72's previous owner had the system charged (with costly R12) only to have it leak out within a week. I am thinking at this age, the old rubber hoses are leaking and deteriorated, just like everyother piece of rubber in the system... I think my POA valve is clogged also.
I am thinking of two options...
Send all my rebuildable parts to this place for complete rebuild:
http://www.classicautoair.com/
Or buy their <GASP> sanden conversion kit...
http://www.classicautoair.com/GM_San...onversion.html
They do not mention much for Olds, but one is available for the 72 Cutlass. This will be the cheapest way out at 560 bucks + 100 for POA rebuild + ? shipping (still 1/2 the cost of the above full resto). The kit will be prepped for either R134 or R12, my choice and I will go for 134 so if there are any issues in the future i can take care of them myself cheaply.
Bad thing here is looks, non-originality, and the fact I have a jap part on my American car...
I have about 6 cans of R12 in the freezer (to keep them dry and the can pressures lower). If your cans are heavy, then the stuff is in there and should be fine and usable.
I will save my R12 for my 86 Olds...
I have been contemplating this also.
My 72's previous owner had the system charged (with costly R12) only to have it leak out within a week. I am thinking at this age, the old rubber hoses are leaking and deteriorated, just like everyother piece of rubber in the system... I think my POA valve is clogged also.
I am thinking of two options...
Send all my rebuildable parts to this place for complete rebuild:
http://www.classicautoair.com/
Or buy their <GASP> sanden conversion kit...
http://www.classicautoair.com/GM_San...onversion.html
They do not mention much for Olds, but one is available for the 72 Cutlass. This will be the cheapest way out at 560 bucks + 100 for POA rebuild + ? shipping (still 1/2 the cost of the above full resto). The kit will be prepped for either R134 or R12, my choice and I will go for 134 so if there are any issues in the future i can take care of them myself cheaply.
Bad thing here is looks, non-originality, and the fact I have a jap part on my American car...
I have about 6 cans of R12 in the freezer (to keep them dry and the can pressures lower). If your cans are heavy, then the stuff is in there and should be fine and usable.
I will save my R12 for my 86 Olds...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; June 23rd, 2009 at 05:48 AM.
#5
Aron, please tell us all about your conversion process - I am interested to know what you have learned along the way. This A/C stuff is all new to me. In fact, if you need a hand, just holler!
I had 102.7 as a high at my place yesterday, though not for long... I heard next rain chance is October 17th...
Only in TX will your radiator boil over BEFORE you start the engine, and the "fry an egg on the hood" myth has been proven numerous times...
I had 102.7 as a high at my place yesterday, though not for long... I heard next rain chance is October 17th...
Only in TX will your radiator boil over BEFORE you start the engine, and the "fry an egg on the hood" myth has been proven numerous times...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; June 23rd, 2009 at 05:49 AM.
#6
Howdy Neighbor
If you're looking for a good shop in Hotlanta [Roswell actually] call Charlie at Peach State Classics. They can put some dye in the lines and see where the leak[s] are and they're right around the corner from the Delco Dealer in Roswell.[If ya need a new compressor]
Good luck. Where in Hotlanta are you located?
Good luck. Where in Hotlanta are you located?
#7
If you are rebuilding your AC system you MUST replace the hoses. After 30+ years the rubber deteriorates and needs to be replaced. In addition, once you replace all of the parts you need to draw a vacuum on the system before you charge it. If air is left in the lines or compressor then it will compress and cause the AC to run inefficiently.
#8
Fellow Olds Man in Hotlanta
Thanks to all for the feedback on rebuilding the air conditioning system on my Cutlass. Jamesbo, I live in Alpharetta near the Atlanta Athletic Club. Where are you residing? I appreciate your telling me about Peach State Classics - not far from where I live, I'm sure. I plan to look them up this afternoon. There are probably several long-standing issues that Charlie can help me with, such as who can rebuild my Q-jet and helping me determine why there is a misfire in my 350 engine. It has been a long time since the engine ran smoothly. As far as my air conditioning, I guess a good first step would be to get some red dye into system to see where the leak/s are. I really would like to keep the system original if I can. I have had it since new and have not really changed anything, except the usual repairs. It needs a lot of TLC as I have neglected it over the years. Again guys, thank for the help!
#9
Charlie and Randy can help you with anything you need. Some Yahoo put my front coils in and didn't seat them correctly and I had a noise that drove me to drink [It was a short trip] They figgered it out and got things right.
My Wife [a.k.a. She who must be obeyed] calls it "The Perfect Shop" Sometimes, I just go by to see what they've got torn apart. Chubbys, Goats, Granny Sports, That's all they do is work on the good stuff.[and they love them]
Going south from Afaretter on Hwy 9 [Alpharetta hwy. Atlanta Hwy. or what ever it is called there]Turn left at the Ferrari Dealership. Go to the bottom of the hill and take a left on Hembree or upper [or Lower Hembree, I tend to get my Hembrees mixed up] and they are on the left behind Sterling Body works.
I live in the loverly new city of Milton [formerly unincorporate N. Fulton County] where the inmates have taken over the asylum.
p.s. For my friends not from the Meto Atlanta area, I'll bet cha a dollar to a dounut he knows exactly how to get there. Road names don't mean much........... they change daily and there are at least 600 roads named "Peachtree" sum'in.
My Wife [a.k.a. She who must be obeyed] calls it "The Perfect Shop" Sometimes, I just go by to see what they've got torn apart. Chubbys, Goats, Granny Sports, That's all they do is work on the good stuff.[and they love them]
Going south from Afaretter on Hwy 9 [Alpharetta hwy. Atlanta Hwy. or what ever it is called there]Turn left at the Ferrari Dealership. Go to the bottom of the hill and take a left on Hembree or upper [or Lower Hembree, I tend to get my Hembrees mixed up] and they are on the left behind Sterling Body works.
I live in the loverly new city of Milton [formerly unincorporate N. Fulton County] where the inmates have taken over the asylum.
p.s. For my friends not from the Meto Atlanta area, I'll bet cha a dollar to a dounut he knows exactly how to get there. Road names don't mean much........... they change daily and there are at least 600 roads named "Peachtree" sum'in.
#10
plus 1 on the hoses. i went through everything except hoses. replaced filter drier twice, cleaned out screen inline filter several times. went through plenty of r12, but i have a couple of 30# cans of that so i wasn't worried about that.i am an a/c contractor. finally i replaced i replaced the hoses and then you could hang meat in the car it was so cold burrrr! as far as the misfiring check the choke pulloff on the carb. mine was misfiring and it was a vacumm leak in the choke pulloff pot.
john
john
#11
I guess a good first step would be to get some red dye into system to see where the leak/s are.
#12
Old64 and John, thanks for help with rebuild of air conditioning on my Cutlass. What hoses need to be replaced and what vendor/s would you recommend for the parts? Is the air conditioning hose and muffler one of the hoses that I need? There is an NOS on Ebay for $195. I found on Ebay that Airpartstore has remanu compressor, new drier/receiver & expansion valve orifice tube, o-rings and 8oz. of oil for $295. Does anyone have any experience with buying their products? Year One wants $291 for remanu compressor and drier/receiver.
By the way, Jamesbo, I found Peach State Classics and Randy said they can first scope my engine to hopefully determine what is causing misfire and then if necessary do compression and leak down tests. Hopefully it will be something simple like a vacuum leak in choke pulloff, like John suggested, instead of a real serious/expensive problem. They can rebuild the Q-jet for about $325. They specialize in mechanical & interior work on old cars, but do no body work and have been in business for about 17 yrs.
By the way, Jamesbo, I found Peach State Classics and Randy said they can first scope my engine to hopefully determine what is causing misfire and then if necessary do compression and leak down tests. Hopefully it will be something simple like a vacuum leak in choke pulloff, like John suggested, instead of a real serious/expensive problem. They can rebuild the Q-jet for about $325. They specialize in mechanical & interior work on old cars, but do no body work and have been in business for about 17 yrs.
#13
Old64 and John, thanks for help with rebuild of air conditioning on my Cutlass. What hoses need to be replaced and what vendor/s would you recommend for the parts? Is the air conditioning hose and muffler one of the hoses that I need? There is an NOS on Ebay for $195. I found on Ebay that Airpartstore has remanu compressor, new drier/receiver & expansion valve orifice tube, o-rings and 8oz. of oil for $295. Does anyone have any experience with buying their products? Year One wants $291 for remanu compressor and drier/receiver.
By the way, Jamesbo, I found Peach State Classics and Randy said they can first scope my engine to hopefully determine what is causing misfire and then if necessary do compression and leak down tests. Hopefully it will be something simple like a vacuum leak in choke pulloff, like John suggested, instead of a real serious/expensive problem. They can rebuild the Q-jet for about $325. They specialize in mechanical & interior work on old cars, but do no body work and have been in business for about 17 yrs.
By the way, Jamesbo, I found Peach State Classics and Randy said they can first scope my engine to hopefully determine what is causing misfire and then if necessary do compression and leak down tests. Hopefully it will be something simple like a vacuum leak in choke pulloff, like John suggested, instead of a real serious/expensive problem. They can rebuild the Q-jet for about $325. They specialize in mechanical & interior work on old cars, but do no body work and have been in business for about 17 yrs.
#14
They can rebuild the Q-jet for about $325.
You can buy a new Q-jet from Summit for less than that.
There is an NOS on Ebay for $195.
#15
Hey guys, my 71 Cutlass didnt come equipped with factory air. With this heat, I now want some air! Can someone please list where I can find a complete system (salvage yard, yearone, etc) and also what parts are needed. I'm not really a newbie, but I'm also not a car expert. All information is good information.
#16
alot of pieces. all vents and ductwork inside under, in and behind dash. the whole heater core evaporator setup, which should include controls in dash. bracket and compressor for engine, condensing coil in front of radiator with filter drier, hoses and wiring harness. i think that's everything. seems like alot to get air.
john
john
#18
alot of pieces. all vents and ductwork inside under, in and behind dash. the whole heater core evaporator setup, which should include controls in dash. bracket and compressor for engine, condensing coil in front of radiator with filter drier, hoses and wiring harness. i think that's everything. seems like alot to get air.
#19
I was able to mount the sanden style compressor on mine just by reconfiguring the original brackets. (I think I had to drill one hole & trim one piece). I've got a new compressor in, a new condenser, a new drier and a new expansion valve. I'm in the Atlanta area as well and this heat makes me leave the Olds in the garage when I could be out enjoying it. I need to get the plumbing done and go through all the vacuum lines(they are a mess, hanging everywhere because I just got the dash back in) This is a daunting task for me, I don't have any experience with a/c. I might have to make the drive up to the "ettas" to see the guys at Peach State real soon. Is there anything else I should do since everything in there is almost new?
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