seventy2cutlass93

i have a 72 cutlass s, 350rocket, i got it to start for the first time yesterday, i started about 5 time and let it run for about 15 minutes, went out ther today it turned over but didnt start, now it wont even turn over, i changed the battery terminals, starter, fuses, got the battery checked and charged and still nothing
just a click, i turned engine by hand to make sure it wasnt seized, when i turn key voltage is at 13 when i try to start, it drops to 8

brddg

If it ran yesterday then turned over but wouldn't start, then wouldn't turn over at all. I'd think it was the battery. Did you change the starter for a new one or one that was laying around?

oldcutlass

I would clean and inspect cable ends, grounds, and wire terminals at the starter. If all the connections are good I would say your starter solenoid is probably no good.

seventy2cutlass93

i thought it was the battery also, got it charged and checked at advance autoparts, starter is brand new, got it checked before i paid for it turn out good. im going to check the grounds soon as this blizzard ends, thanks a lot guys ill keep you guys updated

Kyle's 77 Cutlass

solenoid ????

seventy2cutlass93

what would be the best way to check the solenoid?

oldcutlass

You stated earlier it was a new starter.

Kyle's 77 Cutlass

if you can reach to the starter, cross the positive cable (terminal) on the solenoid to the little terminal. Go here, use third picture for reference
https://www.google.ca/search?q=oldsm...h=571#imgdii=_

Use a screw drive to jump it, if it cranks over you have a poor connection somewhere. Another thing you may want to try, do this first before the solenoid.Tap the starter with a hammer a few times. Would help if you had another person turning the key while you do this.The brushes may have poor contact as well. Make sure you are in park or out of gear before you try jumping the solenoid.

Kyle's 77 Cutlass

Oh new starter, good chance you have a poor connection. Jump the solenoid then first

brddg

I've had bad brand new parts before. I was just going the battery route because you stated that you started it 5 times yesterday and no mention of a problem then. Now, when you say you finally got it started yesterday I wonder what the cars past is? new to you or sitting for years? After I posted it occured to me that it's colder than a well diggers a** up there right now and maybe the plugs got wet with fuel and it's all down hill from there especially if it's still got points in it.

brddg

Or maybe the bendix gear got jammed against the ring gear when you were trying to start it. Give it a couple raps with a hammer and see if it might come loose. This summer my maiden voyage to cruise night in my 442 (with new starter) had me crawling underneath the car with a loaner tire iron because someone wanted to hear it run and I got NOTHING with turning the key. Had to happen with everyone around the car too, embarassing.

Kyle's 77 Cutlass

Yes tap the starter first, hit it a few times. This could work. If not jump the solenoid like I explained, if it cranks poor wiring connection somewhere. If this is the case, you can add another solenoid to up the amps for cranking. Get yourself a 86 ford half ton solenoid, bolt that baby to a good ground and connect in parallel.

Octania

You left off the starter brace when you put on the starter, right?
Either that, or poor connections or cables. Do you know how to use a voltmeter to find out where the voltage is failing to pass thru?

"11/8/03

The strap is commonly left off especially on headers cars, because it's a HUGE PITA to get back in place.

In addition to supporting the starter, which as mentioned is only an issue if you "General Lee" your car... it also serves as a redundant ground path for the starter current. I had one occasion, 350 Olds in a Pontiac car, would not start. Pulled starter, bench tested OK. Back in, no workee. Back out, tests OK, back in no workee. Had wife hold key to START while I smacked starter with hammer. AHA- sparks between nose and starter body. Starter was assembled from parts lying about, dirty connection at body to nose piece prevented electron flow. Bench test used ground at body, not nose piece, so it worked every time.

Fixed it by installing the support/ ground strap. "

brddg

Many replacement starters are not drilled and tapped for the brace.

Octania

Yet another reason to use factory correct parts whenever possible. Fix or rebuild your own part. Starters are usually easy to refurbish, at least to serviceable condition. New brushes, clean up the armature as best you can, and maybe a bushing or 2 while you are in there.

If you get someone to hold the key to START while you test, you can put a voltmeter red lead on the starter case or end plate, while somebody holds the black lead on the battery (-) terminal. If your ground path from starter to battery (-) post is faulty for any reason, there will be more than the 0.1 Volts or so that there should be across this path. These parts are all tied together, in theory, so no voltage drop should appear between those 2 points.

If there is more than a tiny bit of voltage on the starter case with respect to the battery (-) terminal then one of the junctions or the cable itself from block to (-) is faulty.
Ground Cable iteslf
Cable terminals to cable wire
connection at battery between battery (-) actual post/ fitting & cable end
Starter coils to starter case [unlikely but possible]
starter case to engine block [thus the support / GROUND strap]
connection at block to ground cable

Further troubleshooting with the voltmeter will pinpoint the exact location of the problem. Or, since we are down to basically 2 items at this point, fix 'em both- new Gnd cable, and install the ground strap.

OF course, it could be a loose (+) wire into the solenoid, bad solenoid contacts, etc. as well.