liquidpower

So I decide I’m going to pamper my baby. After 2 days of buffing polishing waxing it looks supper good. Now it’s time for the really things I head to the auto shop by a new radiator cap, new oil cap, valve cover gaskets, spark plug wires, oil presser switch, new trans filter and gasket, and change the oil too.
Now the problems happen I guess after putting the new radiater cap on it starts to run at its full presser of 16 lb and then the radiator pops a hole, also now the timing seams to jump around, I thought maybe the new wires where the cause because of the suppresser for the radio interference but after putting the old ones back on I see the same thing happing.
Maybe it’s the gears on the disturber wearing down making the timing jump. So I need a new one?
And the stuff you pour in to radiators to stop leeks is crap right. The tight to do is close that parts that leeks or get a new one?

liquidpower

so i take the car out for a quick stop to drop some suff at a frends and wile sitting at a red light i see the oil light come on but its flashing then i start to drive and it gose away checked the oil right up to the full line no leeks. so dose this mean that my oil pump isint doing its job at an idel and probly not pumping as much as it shoud all the time

liquidpower

sorry
1970 olds 98
455 4b
55100 miles

Olds64

If your radiator is leaking you should probably take it to a radiator shop and have it tested. It would probably be cheaper for a shop to refurbish your old radiator than to buy a new one. Then again, O'Reillys and other parts stores are pretty cheap now days.

If your oil light came on and then shut off you should check the oil pressure sensor on your engine. It sits at the front of the engine right behind the water pump. Just make sure you keep an eye on your oil level until you figure it out.

You mentioned your timing is jumping around. Did you set the dwell before setting the timing?

citcapp

I recomend that you add an oil guage. the name idiot light says it all. That being said do as Olds64 advises. These sensors have failed in the past

liquidpower

ya i just replaced the oil pressure switch the old one was leeking some out the top so it might be that the new onne is a bit defective. and i did not set the dwels i did about 5 days ago

liquidpower

so I’m going to set the dwells tomato see if that stops it I’ll let you all know but i got a Haynes repair manual and there isn’t a engine vacuum diagram and I know mine isn’t right because i have one plugged up and I can’t find where it go so if you guys can take a pic of your cars vac

J-(Chicago)

liquidpower

i think its for the most part right d,c,and e go in that order down the vac switch
no clue where the ? goes just have it plugged up now
f goes to this caster on the passenger side of the fire wall d is distributor vac adv
and its a 1970 455 with ac
that dam Haynes manual didn't help with this a bit
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f.jpg

Yellowstatue

The F hose to the canister is for your vacuum accesories such as pwr trunk and door locks and cruise and if you have air it operates some A/C doors. the question mark plug is the feed for air cleaner heat door...

jaysun

Sounds like it's time for a new timming set. the orginal one on the cam was nylon coated alumium and falls off. this would cause your timming issues and your oil pressure problem. the nylon off the gear falls off into the oil pan and clogs the oil pump pickup. A little more info here https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...recaution.html

liquidpower

cool so the rest of the vacuum hoses are right? and i bought a new 4 core radiator today ill put that in this week. and is there any way to check and tell if it is my timing set besides going in and tearing every thing up? maybe the disturber gears are wearing out.
if not i guess ill just have to do it.

Olds64

When you set your timing you used a timing light correct? That is the only way to check timing unless you have a spark analyzer (most shops don't even have them today). When you set your dwell make sure you use a dwell meter. These things can't be "guessed" at. You should also set your idle speed with a tachometer and your idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge.

liquidpower

yep have a timing light. that's how i see the line jump around form 8 to 9 and 10 then back around to 8. and i use this old school big box for the dwell and the tachometer i don't have a vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture screw i just turned slowly and listened to the engine rev and then once stoped increscing i turned it done a 1/8 of a turn

jaysun

I STRONGLY recommend finding out why the oil pressure idiot light is on first. buy beg borrow or steal a gauge. Is idle speed correct? If idle speed is to low the idiot light will flicker.

I HIGHLY Recommend replacing the stock timing set too, the nylon on the stock timing gear can and will flake off and get stuck in the oil pump pickup. causing a spun bearing. At a minimum take the cover off and have a look to see how much is missing.

Since your changing the valve cover gaskets i'd try to have a peek at the valve stem seals. they were nylon too.

liquidpower

so i bought a new timing set "http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Timing-Set---Performance_2273_R|GRP60010___" and a new water pump hate to just for some added peace of mind in there all ready why not. got new timing set gaskets kit. probably finish it all tomorrow. now if i see that the gears on the old timing set have broke off can i just take off the oil pan and wipe off the oil pump pick up screen or do i need to replace stuff. also will there be any problem with fitting the timing set because its a Double Roller.

jaysun

Nice looking timing set. you'll be pleasantly at the difference between the new one and the original. A double roller shouldn't be a problem installing. Mine installed just like the original, just a little tighter.

As for cleaning out junk out of the oil pump sceeen. afaik you should be fine cleaning it out. no parts needed besides gaskets. Not sure on what kind of clearence you have between the front crossmemer and the pan on your car has tho.

A couple tips that popped in to my head that ill share.

1. when i took my timing cover off i removed 3 or 4 of the oil pan bolts from the front and loosened the rest. and put a pair of thick screwdrivers on either side of the pan to let it drop slightly, so i could pull the cover off. when installing I trimmed a little off each end of the bottom seal and lined up the bottom edge of the cover and tapped on the cover sightly till it went in place. put a little sillycone next to the seal and removed screwdrivers and tightened everything down.

2. for installing the lower gear i preheated it at the oven at 200 degrees or so. Slid right on. no hammer needed. If your gear has marks painted or etched on it, you'll want to use a punch to mark them. they'll dissapear when heated.I used 1 Punch mark for straight up 2 punches for 2 degrees retarded. 3 for 2 degrees advance.

3. For the harmonic ballancer, I used a little anti-seize and a block of wood and tapped it in far enough for the bolt to catch.

3a on the back of my harmonic balencer, it had a mark between the outer ring and the inner ring from the factory. to check for slipage. Now would be i good time to check it.

4. seems simple, but, don't forget the oil slinger or the fuel pump eccentric.

5. The fel pro gasket set for the front cover has 3 water pump gaskets. 2 of which are almost identical.

Jason

liquidpower

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no cracks falling off but tons of cracks on it good call making me replace this.

in side the head there was some gray goope asked a speed shop guy he said that it was just some goope and to scoop it out so i did but you can see it in the pic also there was some flakes in there not shure if they came from the old cork gaskit or somthing else you can see one in the pic any ideas
bought an oil pressure gauge. so i shoud defnely pull the oil pan and cleen off that pick up?

liquidpower

should i pull the oil pan with the timing cover off or is it the same


i can post some more pics if you want too

jaysun

Grey goop could be from short trips, misfunctioning pvc system or blown head gasket. a little goop is normal for a 30 + year old car. A finger full i would consider normal. I'm wondering if that goop could of ended up in your oil pickup screen. Since you have the timing cover off, is there any of this goop on the bottom of the pan?

If i'm seeing the flakes your talking about, they're right below the springs for #5 they look whitish and clean (not oil soaked), so i'm guessing gasket.

as long as you got the valve covers off make sure that the oil drainback holes are clear. they are 2 on the bottom, far left and far right, each head use a stiff wire. This will make sure that oil is getting back to the pan.

Since you got a oil pressure gauge, id hold off on puling the pan. Just put it together and do an oil presure test and go from there.

liquidpower

the gray goo was in the oil drain back not a lot tho but enough to freak me out. and the flake that I'm talking about is right around the 4 and 5th spring in between really brittle . but my old cover gaskits where cork and supper bad you can see in the pic the oil leeking on to the headers.

i was just worred about that being the valve stem seals. but my spark plugs dont have an oil build up at lest the last time i changed them they didint

jaysun

I'd pick it up and clean it, if it's nylon it'll should the same color as your timing gear maybe a little redder. I'll see if i kept my old ones an post a pic tommrow if i did. Yes. a valve stem seal can have bits broke off it and still seal. I think of it as an umbrella preventing the valve stem from getting too wet. It's only half of the equation, the other half is the clearance between the valve stem and the valve stem guide. so in theory you could have part of the seal missing and not burn (much) oil

if you decide to remove your oil pan, you might want to post a thread. I'm almost positive that wolfman98 (on this board) has removed his recently his is a 69, but, im pretty sure that a 69 and a 70 are in the same generation and have the same crossmember. might not be as bad as I thought it looked. I havent tried to drop the pan in my car, a 76 delta, with the engine in yet. mine looks tight, but, on pics he posted it looks like there is much more clearance than mine.

liquidpower

ya that's what the flakes where
crud.jpg
that what was in the left head back oil return any ideas what it is

got most if it all back to in one thing had to take the water pump and timing cover off 3 times forgot to set the proper torque on the fuel pump cam and had problems installing the fuel pump and then the last time after putting the harmonic balancer back on I forgot to put the oil slinger on. God i hope i don’t find any thing else i for got but i think i got it all right just need to put the compressor back on alternator and power steering fill the radiator.
ill change the oil once more after i see what the presser is since some anti freeze got in the pan



newchang.jpg

jaysun

Nearly everyone forgets the oil slinger one time of the other. nope i got no idea what it that is. theres a lot of it thought, alot more than i'd expect. I would change the oil first to get any of the containments out that my have droped down into the engine, before you do your pressure test. I'd also run a half quart of fresh oil down the oil fill tube and the remander over the valve springs litting the drip down the oil return hole, before draining the pan. this will get any junk still sitting to be washed down into the pan.
i'm not an expert on what the pressure should be (maybe you could start a thread), but , anything less than 20 psi id kill the engine. Also make sure your hot idle speed is correct. A low idle speed will cause low oil pressure. If you dont know the hot idle i'd shoot for about 800 to 900 rpm on a automatic trans car.

good luck. im pretty busy on week days but i'll try to answer if i get a free minuite.

Jason

Lady72nRob71

Remains of old gasket material or from decayed, petrified valve stem seals?

Do they still sell plastic timing gears or all they mostly metal now?
My timing set was supposibly changed at a shop by the PO before I bought the car and do not know what type of gears were installed. Most likely the "cheapest thing"...

liquidpower

when i looked i didn't see any plastic gears for sale. and ill do that oil thing sounds like a good idea i know my idle is low i have it set for 600 when i think it should be 750 i was going to drop the pan and look at the pickup but god dam it was hard to get that cross exhaust off so i just gave up lol the timing still jumps aroudn so i going to buy a new dis now im just trying to justafil geting the 230 magnetic pic up one or the 33 points one

Lady72nRob71

Magnetic pickup is the way to go. If budget is an issue, get the 33 dollar points one and convert it over to electronic later for another 150 bucks. There is a one-wire stock-type conversion kit at year one that is easy as pie to install. I am gonna go that route soon.

liquidpower

oil pressure really low at idle making new thread about doping oil pan.
and ya i think im just going to get the mag pickup id just hate to spend that and it not be the problem but what else cloud it be i changed the timing set.

all in all its kind of fun im spending too much money but what is money if you don't spend it