Help for my '66 Olds 98 Convert.
#1
Help for my '66 Olds 98 Convert.
Looking for a LH tail lens for my '66 Olds 98 Convert. that I am in the middle of restoring.
Also, if anyone knows how to clean up the grill- best products as it is in good shape just needs to be cleaned up and I don't want to use something wrong and ruin it.
Can anyone direct me to the correct paint for the front headlight pieces (grey and black) as I am re-chroming due to pitting the pieces and want to paint the black back to original and the grey also.
This is an all original garaged car with 32K original mile convertible with factory air (California car).
Thanks much!
Southbayolds
Ross (310) 318-4012 or email rossdbos26@yahoo.com
Also, if anyone knows how to clean up the grill- best products as it is in good shape just needs to be cleaned up and I don't want to use something wrong and ruin it.
Can anyone direct me to the correct paint for the front headlight pieces (grey and black) as I am re-chroming due to pitting the pieces and want to paint the black back to original and the grey also.
This is an all original garaged car with 32K original mile convertible with factory air (California car).
Thanks much!
Southbayolds
Ross (310) 318-4012 or email rossdbos26@yahoo.com
#2
Hey Ross,
Congrats on the '66 convertible. A great year!
On ebay, there's a seller called "jonesvintageparts". They currently have listed an NOS RH taillight lens for a 1966 98 and claim to have thousands of hard-to-find parts. Perhaps they have the LH lens you want. Might be worth sending them an email.
Good luck with your restoration.
John
Congrats on the '66 convertible. A great year!
On ebay, there's a seller called "jonesvintageparts". They currently have listed an NOS RH taillight lens for a 1966 98 and claim to have thousands of hard-to-find parts. Perhaps they have the LH lens you want. Might be worth sending them an email.
Good luck with your restoration.
John
#3
Do you need the whole lens assembly? There are several parts to it - the large clear outer plastic, the red inner plastic, the center chrome bezel and the inner plastic divider. I have some parts and complete units.
Clean the leading edge of the grille with a good chrome cleaner/polish. The rest can be done with any good cleaner/polish that you would use on painted surfaces.
I won't say this is absolutely correct but I paint the headlight doors as follows - Rust-oleum professional semi-gloss black; Seymour Alumi Blast topped with Seymour Hi-Tech clear EN-70. Use the plastic striping tape to get a nice edge.
Bruce
Clean the leading edge of the grille with a good chrome cleaner/polish. The rest can be done with any good cleaner/polish that you would use on painted surfaces.
I won't say this is absolutely correct but I paint the headlight doors as follows - Rust-oleum professional semi-gloss black; Seymour Alumi Blast topped with Seymour Hi-Tech clear EN-70. Use the plastic striping tape to get a nice edge.
Bruce
#5
Taillights are the same for any 1966 Ninety Eight.
If the grille chrome is not pitted, use some 0000 steel wool or, even better, brass wool to clean 45 years of grime off the shiny areas. Then wipe those down with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to clean off any residue. The brass wool is soft and should not damage intact plating unless you really scour it. A light brushing with it should move grunge.
The fun starts then. To refinish the argent areas requires a lot of tedious taping and masking with GOOD quality tape. 3M or equivalent, no cheapy stuff as it will be hell to remove esp on a complicated grille like a 66 Ninety Eight. I'm told you might be able to put a light smear of vaseline on the areas you don't want painted. When the paint is dry, simply wipe off the vaseline and then clean up edges with brass wool.
If the grille chrome is not pitted, use some 0000 steel wool or, even better, brass wool to clean 45 years of grime off the shiny areas. Then wipe those down with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to clean off any residue. The brass wool is soft and should not damage intact plating unless you really scour it. A light brushing with it should move grunge.
The fun starts then. To refinish the argent areas requires a lot of tedious taping and masking with GOOD quality tape. 3M or equivalent, no cheapy stuff as it will be hell to remove esp on a complicated grille like a 66 Ninety Eight. I'm told you might be able to put a light smear of vaseline on the areas you don't want painted. When the paint is dry, simply wipe off the vaseline and then clean up edges with brass wool.
#7
Thank you!
Thanks for all the tips and help. This is my first venture into an Oldsmobile as I just finished a year long frame off on a '63 Impala SS for my father. This one is for me and I'm have a blast mainly because I don't have to do a frame off again. Interior and Trunk were just about pristine. Garaged by the same "little old lady" that bought it new in '66. Her family put a piece of plywood on top hence the deterioration of the top and there were just some minor dings and a crease on the front right fender. Body work is complete and now working on getting the motor and trans fixed and roadworthy then paint and new top. Going to keep it original color- Autumn Bronze with the black top.
#9
A very nice car to start with!! I see it has cornering lights, manual A/C and cruise control. Is the radio AM/FM? Is the engine the standard 365hp or is it the Starfire 375hp with factory dual exhausts?
#12
LH tail light
Hello.
Are you looking for the red center portion or the entire unit with the clear back - up lens surround. I have a good left and right unit. Tell us more about the car, - color , options , interior, top.... Thanks, Nick npd1963@gmail.com
Are you looking for the red center portion or the entire unit with the clear back - up lens surround. I have a good left and right unit. Tell us more about the car, - color , options , interior, top.... Thanks, Nick npd1963@gmail.com
#13
the entire plastic (inner and outer)
I am looking for the entire lens (clear and red). Bruce said he has one, I believe.
Fired the motor today and ran perfect, especially since it has sat since 1982 (when she last drove it). Now comes the fun part. I am either going to take it out and repaint the block/heads and powdercoat the rest of the parts and re-shoot the engine compartment as it is tired and faded and a lot of surface rust on the components (none on the body thankfully). etc.
So either pull the motor/trans and do it correctly and then take it to get painted and new top then it is 90% complete.
Will have pic's shortly of where I am at.
BTW, I got Mother's metal polish for the grille and with a lot of elbow grease it is coming out pretty good. I also have bought brass and steel wool and it takes the hard stuff off. Trying not to damage painted areas on the grill.
BTW, this was a fully loaded car, power everything, a/c, cornering lights, , early version of cruise control, am/fm with power antenea (sp?) which I am going to have to get rebuilt as it siezed up many years ago along with the convertible top motor which I found out today as I suspected that is doesn't work so either rebuild or aftermarket NOS. I bought an original owners manual on ebay and it is a wealth of info on what options this car came with, doesn't look like she missed much when she bought it.
According to the numbers on the timing chain cover it was the 365 hp 425 single exhaust (bummed that it wasn't the HP motor but I guess you can't have everything).
Thanks again you guys have been a wealth of info and I appreciate it.
Ross
Fired the motor today and ran perfect, especially since it has sat since 1982 (when she last drove it). Now comes the fun part. I am either going to take it out and repaint the block/heads and powdercoat the rest of the parts and re-shoot the engine compartment as it is tired and faded and a lot of surface rust on the components (none on the body thankfully). etc.
So either pull the motor/trans and do it correctly and then take it to get painted and new top then it is 90% complete.
Will have pic's shortly of where I am at.
BTW, I got Mother's metal polish for the grille and with a lot of elbow grease it is coming out pretty good. I also have bought brass and steel wool and it takes the hard stuff off. Trying not to damage painted areas on the grill.
BTW, this was a fully loaded car, power everything, a/c, cornering lights, , early version of cruise control, am/fm with power antenea (sp?) which I am going to have to get rebuilt as it siezed up many years ago along with the convertible top motor which I found out today as I suspected that is doesn't work so either rebuild or aftermarket NOS. I bought an original owners manual on ebay and it is a wealth of info on what options this car came with, doesn't look like she missed much when she bought it.
According to the numbers on the timing chain cover it was the 365 hp 425 single exhaust (bummed that it wasn't the HP motor but I guess you can't have everything).
Thanks again you guys have been a wealth of info and I appreciate it.
Ross
#14
Show a picture of the cruise control unit if you can. I am not familiar with an early and later version. I know the dash unit remained unchanged since 1964.
You may be able to get the power top motor working yourself by opening up the pump portion and giving it a good cleaning. The old fluid gets dried up and nasty over time, especially if it is not used. The motor should still work as long as someone didn't burn it up trying to get the unit to pump. You will have to put a new "O" ring between the motor and pump to prevent leakage.
I'm holding the (NOS) taillight lens, waiting to see what you want to do. See my PM.
Bruce
You may be able to get the power top motor working yourself by opening up the pump portion and giving it a good cleaning. The old fluid gets dried up and nasty over time, especially if it is not used. The motor should still work as long as someone didn't burn it up trying to get the unit to pump. You will have to put a new "O" ring between the motor and pump to prevent leakage.
I'm holding the (NOS) taillight lens, waiting to see what you want to do. See my PM.
Bruce
#15
Bruce, I think what he's talking about is this car has the Dana electric driven cruise instead of the later vacuum system. The electric was used 62-68 and when it's working, is great. When it's not working, well, you get the idea.
I thought your car had it??
I thought your car had it??
#16
Both of mine have electric systems but they are Perfect Circle. Fortunately, they both work well. I also have one that quit working and I have not gotten around to finding out what is wrong. I have some parts and may be able to fix it.
#17
Need some color specs
Does anyone know the color specs for the engine compartment? Firewall is matte black? Fireball red for the motor? all brackets matte black? They are faded and I am going to paint it back to original.
Thank you for the help.
Ross
Thank you for the help.
Ross
#19
Basically everything is semi-gloss chassis black including the brackets. The engine is red but I never before heard it called Fireball. The correct color can be obtained from Fusick's or USA Parts in WV. Exceptions to the paint scheme would be accelerator bracket on the firewall and the cruise control unit which are natural. The cruise control brackets and braces are black. The windshield wiper motor is natural. The brake booster is black but the master cylinder is cast iron.
#20
Update and questions
Ok All, I had the engine compartment completely detailed back to original (including suspension) came out unbelievable and I will post pic's shortly. Now in the process of getting motor running with period correct hoses/clamps, etc.
My question is the Thermostat housing, no one (neither Fusiks or U.S.A.) have the factory correct Thermostat housing (they both tell me that it hasn't been reproduced yet) so I am trying to source the correct Thermostat housing for the 425. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ross
My question is the Thermostat housing, no one (neither Fusiks or U.S.A.) have the factory correct Thermostat housing (they both tell me that it hasn't been reproduced yet) so I am trying to source the correct Thermostat housing for the 425. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ross
#21
Put a request in the parts wanted section. Not sure if its the correct one or not but this is the one on my 66 98.
DSCN1165.jpg
DSCN1165.jpg
Ok All, I had the engine compartment completely detailed back to original (including suspension) came out unbelievable and I will post pic's shortly. Now in the process of getting motor running with period correct hoses/clamps, etc.
My question is the Thermostat housing, no one (neither Fusiks or U.S.A.) have the factory correct Thermostat housing (they both tell me that it hasn't been reproduced yet) so I am trying to source the correct Thermostat housing for the 425. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ross
My question is the Thermostat housing, no one (neither Fusiks or U.S.A.) have the factory correct Thermostat housing (they both tell me that it hasn't been reproduced yet) so I am trying to source the correct Thermostat housing for the 425. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ross
#22
I'm not sure what you mean by "thermostat housing." I have a '67 Delta with the 425. The thermostat sits in the top of the engine itself right behind the water pump. In the photo above, the gold rounded thing with the two hoses coming off of it pointing upward and to the the left (smaller one going to the water pump, larger one going to the radiator) is called the "water valve" or "water outlet". It sits right over the thermostat and screws to the block, and it's available at any auto parts store or online through places like rockauto.com.
#23
Water Outlet/Thermostat housing
The water outlet (aka Thermostat housing) is what I am looking for. I saw Rock Auto when I googled the part is this the period correct one or the aftermarket (not period correct) part? Anyone know?
Thanks much,
Ross
Thanks much,
Ross
#24
You're right. Rockauto calls it the thermostat housing. Places I dealt with locally called it the water outlet.
Anyway, rockauto's part number 84841, which is what pops up for a '66 98, is the same part number that comes up for a '67 Delta 88, and it looks just like the one pictured in the factory service manual for my '67.
Anyway, rockauto's part number 84841, which is what pops up for a '66 98, is the same part number that comes up for a '67 Delta 88, and it looks just like the one pictured in the factory service manual for my '67.
Last edited by jaunty75; September 9th, 2010 at 05:01 AM.
#26
Originals are very easy to find. I have a couple of them laying around because I replaced them with the style that has the curved pipe and uses a straight piece of hose instead of the preformed curved hose.
Bruce
Bruce
#27
I've always called it a thermostat housing, every other mechanic I know calls it a thermostat housing and every parts supplier under the sun calls it a thermostat housing.
Go to a parts supplier and ask for a water vavle. You might be lucky if they give you the actual thermostat and not just a stupid look. You won't get the housing though.
Go to a parts supplier and ask for a water vavle. You might be lucky if they give you the actual thermostat and not just a stupid look. You won't get the housing though.
I'm not sure what you mean by "thermostat housing." I have a '67 Delta with the 425. The thermostat sits in the top of the engine itself right behind the water pump. In the photo above, the gold rounded thing with the two hoses coming off of it pointing upward and to the the left (smaller one going to the water pump, larger one going to the radiator) is called the "water valve" or "water outlet". It sits right over the thermostat and screws to the block, and it's available at any auto parts store or online through places like rockauto.com.
#28
I've always called it a thermostat housing, every other mechanic I know calls it a thermostat housing and every parts supplier under the sun calls it a thermostat housing.
Go to a parts supplier and ask for a water vavle. You might be lucky if they give you the actual thermostat and not just a stupid look. You won't get the housing though.
Go to a parts supplier and ask for a water vavle. You might be lucky if they give you the actual thermostat and not just a stupid look. You won't get the housing though.
Last edited by jaunty75; September 9th, 2010 at 05:51 AM.
#29
#30
Pot calling kettle black much???
#31
Trying to look on the most positive way Craig could have meant that and he may be right. I never heard of the term water valve used in that context. He probably did save him a couple strange looks.
#32
Throttle linkage for 425
Well, I had the engine compartment detailed back to original but the guys took my throttle linkage off when painting the intake, etc. but neglected to put it back on and now can't find it. Any ideas or know of anyone that has a throttle linkage for a stock '66 425 4bbl?
BTW, in doing other research the water passage or t-stat housing (tomato, tomatoe) I guess no one is reproducing original housings but Rockauto and Napa have the most widely used and accepted so that is what I went with. I guess according to both Fusik's and U.S.A. Parts the belts (3 out 4 can be bought but to have one belt not original doesn't make sense (A/C, Air (CA Car), Power steering, Alternator) so I went with Gates belts. Otherwise all hoses, clamps, etc. are back to original. Getting close to being road worthy then off to the paint shop then new convertible top. All chrome parts (inside and out) are being re-chromed. Figuring about 2 mos. or less then we are ready to go!!! Will post pic's shortly updating the progress.
Thanks for all your help.
Ross
BTW, in doing other research the water passage or t-stat housing (tomato, tomatoe) I guess no one is reproducing original housings but Rockauto and Napa have the most widely used and accepted so that is what I went with. I guess according to both Fusik's and U.S.A. Parts the belts (3 out 4 can be bought but to have one belt not original doesn't make sense (A/C, Air (CA Car), Power steering, Alternator) so I went with Gates belts. Otherwise all hoses, clamps, etc. are back to original. Getting close to being road worthy then off to the paint shop then new convertible top. All chrome parts (inside and out) are being re-chromed. Figuring about 2 mos. or less then we are ready to go!!! Will post pic's shortly updating the progress.
Thanks for all your help.
Ross
#33
Updated pics
Hi Everyone:
Here is the updated pic's on the '66 98 Convertible. Engine compartment/detail is done. All bodywork was done and just picked up from painter- back to original "Autumn Bronze" looks great! Picking up chrome this week and new top goes on in about a week or so. I will do final reassembly in approx. 1 month.
Thanks again to Bruce and everyone on this site for your valuable help and insight!
Sincerely,
Ross
Here is the updated pic's on the '66 98 Convertible. Engine compartment/detail is done. All bodywork was done and just picked up from painter- back to original "Autumn Bronze" looks great! Picking up chrome this week and new top goes on in about a week or so. I will do final reassembly in approx. 1 month.
Thanks again to Bruce and everyone on this site for your valuable help and insight!
Sincerely,
Ross
#36
Almost Done!
Well after a long time (waiting on some chrome pieces that had to be redone a few times) and some other "issues" that took time here's the almost finished product. Undercarriage is repainted, all chrome done, paint came out great! Soon to go to 1st show!
BTW, anyone know what were the correct size tires (tire, whitewall size, etc.)?
Thanks again for all the support!!!
Ross
BTW, anyone know what were the correct size tires (tire, whitewall size, etc.)?
Thanks again for all the support!!!
Ross
#40
Drive cable for Cruise Control
Hi all:
New top and interior are done (had to do interior as it was cracking and splitting due to age but was matched perfectly!) Will post pic's shortly.
Now trying to get cruise control working (one of the last pieces of the puzzle) and found that the speedo cable to the wheel was missing (cable was there guts weren't so now looking to find one. So I need some expertise on which style cable is correct- Style 21, style 112, style 51 or style 141. Any help??
Thanks again!
Ross
New top and interior are done (had to do interior as it was cracking and splitting due to age but was matched perfectly!) Will post pic's shortly.
Now trying to get cruise control working (one of the last pieces of the puzzle) and found that the speedo cable to the wheel was missing (cable was there guts weren't so now looking to find one. So I need some expertise on which style cable is correct- Style 21, style 112, style 51 or style 141. Any help??
Thanks again!
Ross
Last edited by Southbayolds; May 10th, 2011 at 10:32 AM.