Redog

For a SBO, what is it?

I'm running 50/50 and I tested it with one of those ball tester thingies and it came back +20 to 215. Personally I think this isn't good enough. However I tested a bottle of straight antifreeze and it back the same way Doesn't sound right.

Anyway, The car overheated about a month ago due to the belt breaking and not turning the waterpump. everything's fine now, but 215 for Philadelphia area summer driving, just doesn't seem good enough.

I have a 180* thermo and a 195* (temp on) fan. It wasn't too hot last month and the temp was creaping up to 200* while I was stopped. Outside temp on this day was in the high 70's

Oldsguy

Most of those products are ANTI-FREEZE additives for your coolant. They are not intended to improve coolant performance in hot weather. Many racers use pure water with a water pump lubricant like water-wetter. Some people do the same with daily drivers, especially in the summer.

Redog

My racing buddy told me to swap out the 180* thermo for a 160* one. and put the 180* back in in the winter

I was thinking that would be too cool

He has a 500 ci Mopar dragster, so I'm thinking he knows what he's talking about

Oldsguy

There is an active thread about a 4 core radiator, read it, there is a post about an engine not warming quickly enough with a 160 degree thermostat because it opens too soon, this might affect the engine warm up, don't know about driving conditions after warm up though.

88 coupe

You already have your answer.

An electric fan? Why?

Not a problem until it goes over 240°.

In gear with the brake on? What idle speed/ignition advance? Was the vacuum advance/thermal switch working properly?

How accurate is your gauge?

You have a 180° stat, and the system runs over 200°. It runs at that temp, because once the stat is fully open (at 180°) coolant temps are beyond its control.

Now, someone told you to replace it with a 160°, not knowing that it cannot change your max operating temp.

And, I'm thinking, he does not have a clue.

The one about about which aftermarket bolt ons the guy should use?

Makes no sense. If it opens too soon, it's faulty, and there is nothing to discuss.

Stat has only one purpose: Raise (warm up) the coolant temp to, and maintain, its designed operating level.

Norm

Oldsguy

You got me there, I should have found it and quoted it, leaves room for confusion. No, I was thinking about another one. I'll find it. It was this
one. Rallye469 mentioned the 160 degree thermostat moving the water too fast, I interpreted it him to be saying too soon, thinking that is what he meant and moved on from there with the same thought.

Opened sooner than the 180 degree thermostat, allowing the coolant to circulate before the engine fully warmed up.



Yes, I agree.

I should have stayed out of this one, my response was too vague and caused confusion.

Redog

My ign system is not working that good. I replaced the advance, cap, rotor, and coil (stock voltage) but the weights aren't working still and I don't want to get that far into it. I can get my hands on a Summit one with gift cards

In gear while stopped, idle is about 750 to 800

Jokers69

no it wasn't..

88 coupe

Same one.

joe_p pointed the OP in the right direction, and and he chose to (wrongly) argue, an irrelevant technicality, instead of paying attention to the message.

You can see why I chose not to participate.

He says a lot of things. This time, it is another urban myth that has been discredited numerous times on, to name only one source, ROP.

If (a properly designed system) overheats with no thermostat, the problem is elsewhere.

Coolant begins circulating immediately at startup, via the bypass hose, regardless of its temperature.

By design, a 160° stat should be fully open at about 160° and a 180° at about 180°.

With all other factors being equal:

It takes X minutes for the coolant to reach 155° with a 160° stat. How long will it take with a 180° stat?

Not at all. It promoted more discussion. I believe everyone knows my position, in this area.

Confusion only erupts, when a participant is immature enough to consider personal attacks/flames/name calling, a legitimate part of the process.

Norm

88 coupe

Weights are an integral part of the advance mechanism.

What "advance" did you replace?

Normal PM (periodic maintenance) along with points, plugs, and wires.

Why did you replace it?

Landfills abound with perfectly good coils (and thermostats) that were mistakenly replaced.

The Delco coil, that came with the car/engine, is capable of handling far more than your engine will ever need. Except for those who sit in a lawn chair next to their open hood, any "upgrade" is a waste of money.

Why? If they don't move, there must be an obvious reason.

If you can twist the rotor to the right (counterclockwise) against the springs, it's a good start. If it returns when you release it, you should be able to free the weights up without removing the distributor.

Chev Mentality: Buy new parts, whether they are needed or not. Buy them because they are cheap and plentiful.

A bit high, but with a stock engine/torque converter, it should not cause problem.

Norm