67cutlass67GS

Hey everyone, its good to be back. Well the 330 in my 67 Cutlass has finally reached its limits of too much blow by. She runs but runs poorly. Ive got the money put aside & im not sure which way to go. Yank the 330 & have it rebuilt after i find an Olds shop here in Fl that can do it, or replace it with another small block. Im not a hot rodder by any means so reliability is where im headed. I drive long distance top down Sunday rides so dependability counts. I would naturally keep the 330 so if the day ever came that i sold it id have it. Naturally im looking for the easiest install as well. I also wil be changing the trans at the same time. Any advice on the most reliable motor trans combo with easiest install ? Thanx, Ace

edzolz

Depends if you want to keep it mostly original. A 350 Olds is a direct bolt in, don't have to change or fabricate anything. The cost to rebuild a 350 versus a 330 would be a wash. Both engines are very dependable and get probably the same fuel economy. The 330 has a forged crank that would be more desirable. The 67 330 block will take a 350 piston overbore very easily to make it 350 cubic inches. What transmission does it now have and what do you want to put in the car? I'm guessing you want to go with a 3 speed in place of the 2 speed automatic. There is nothing wrong with that. It too is a direct bolt in. Only some linkage modification to make it shift correctly. You may get differing opinions from some others, but these are my suggestions.

citcapp

350Olds/350 trans is always a good choice. 70 to 1971 are good choices

67cutlass67GS

Thanks for the input guys. i guess the 330 to 350ci makes sense. And yes i still have the 2 speed Junkaway trans in there. Ive read other threads about the direct bolt in of the TH350 also.

oldcutlass

You can go SBO or BBO both will basically bolt in. You can also go with an od trans to make it a bit more fuel efficient for cruising and still have good power down low, You have many choices.

67cutlass67GS

Yes Eric id like to go BBO 455 but arent they much more in the cash department ? We all love 455s how can we not. i was looking for the most econical way to go. ive searched ebay & the BBO seem to be much more.

Allan R

I like putting in a SBO 350 or 403 and a 200 4R

oldcutlass

Not really, your not going to build a full race engine. Machine work and parts are about the same, headers if you so desire would cost much less. With a BBO you would have a lot more power for about the same money.

67cutlass67GS

Well that being said i just may have to go 455.... Ill shop here on tghe site to see of someone has one for sale..Thanks for the advice,

67cutlass67GS

How easy was it to put the TH 400 in the 67

oldcutlass

A T400 is a straight bolt in, however the drive shaft would need to be replaced and a new Ebrake intermediate cable will be needed. To be honest, if you still have the rubber lined drive shaft I'd replace it anyway.


What I would do is explore all your options and see which works for you in your budget and goal for the car.

cutlassefi

What's your budget?

67cutlass67GS

It's not so much a budget as it is just trying to get the best price. A bone stock fresh drop in is all I'm looking for. I'll throw on a set of flow masters & be done with it. If I had big money I'd be throwing in a 4 speed to boot. But we all know how that goes.

MDchanic

Here's the thing:
You have (by your description) a core 330 block.
A core 455 block is a few hundred dollars.

Machine work to rebuild your engine, or to rebuild a core 455 to proper original specifications, is several thousand dollars, and will be essentially the same whichever one you do, so it's really your choice which way you want to go.

Mark is right there in Fla., and does great work, so I'd recommend starting with him and seeing whether he can offer you a solution that fits your needs. He usually does fancy high performance builds, but I'd bet he could guide you to a high-quality completely stock build as well.

- Eric

67cutlass67GS

Thanks MD I didn't realize he was in Fl. After reading what u wrote it simy makes sense to just have the 330 redone & drop her back in her original home. I'll contact Mark for his number & location. Thank u all for the input.

coppercutlass

Or you can buy a 350 block and put the 330 internals with new .030 pistons for the 350 and have a 355 and all you 330 stuff will bolt up to the 350 block . Small block stuff can be found cheap since everyone is quick to give up and go to a bbo. If I lived closer I would give you the spare block I have. Its a 350 std. Bore unfortunantly the shipping would cost more than its worth. Just a though.

Fun71

FYI, 1968-1970 350s are essentially the same and 1971-1972 350s are essentially the same.

Allan R

Ken,
Weren't the 68-70 HC as compared to the 71/72? Also 71/72 have hardened valve seats. Still all are good choices. Nobody wants to go with a 403??

coppercutlass

I belive the diffrence in compression between 68-70 and 71-72 was half a point that being between the low compression engines. The only reason is if you want to re use the stock pistons. Then 73 short blocks will also achieve 9 to 1 with 72 and older cylinder heads. .One key to making it work is using thin head gaskets. I ran a 73 short block with 72 heads and that was my favorite combo. Very mild 9 to 1 very stout and very tame in manners. Then I ran a 350 with cast flat tops o.e. units and I found out the limit of 40 year old components and high rpms .

Fun71

Yeah, I was trying to say that the 68-70 engines are similar to each other and the 71-72 engines are similar to each other, but the 68-70 are different than the 71-72. This was in response to the comment that 70 to 71 are good choices.

Maybe I should just post the specs and let folks see for themselves which engines are alike and which are different:

The 68-70 350-4bbl engines are essentially the same as each other with 10.25:1 advertised compression ratios and 310 HP/390 Ft-Lbs.

The 68-70 350-2bbl engines are essentially the same as each other with 9.0:1 advertised compression ratios and 250 HP/355 Ft-Lbs.

The 71-72 350 engines are all essentially the same as each other with 8.5:1 advertised compression ratios. The 4bbl models had 200 HP/300 Ft-Lbs and the 2bbl models had 175 HP/295 Ft-Lbs (these ratings are with dual exhaust).

This is just getting way more involved than what I was initially trying to say.

oldcutlass

IMHO, if he were to stay SBO the 330 would actually be the engine to build. It was 320 HP and had 10.25 compression, the crank is better than the 350 and he can get it to put the same amount of power out without investing in another block.

coppercutlass

You have limited choice on pistons and cast units cost the same as forged unit or very close to it. Now I have been told the 330 can be punched out to accept a std piston from a 350 but I can't forsure tel you its ok to do so. Remember the 320 hp figure was before they changed the way they rated hp. 350 blocks ,can be had dirt cheap . I gave 2 away a few summers ago. Usually 100 bucks is tops on a core bare block. I picked up a god set of core heads and a std. Block with studs and straps that was align honed for 120. I think for 100 bucks its worth it to ain some cubes and better piston availability if he goes sbo. I have a 350 with studs and straps you can have if you want its std. Bore I think shipping through fastenalmight be cheap enough for it to be an option for you.

Fun71

A sonic check of the 330 block should show if it is good for a 4.057" bore. If so, then all the piston choices for the 350 are available for use and the original block, heads, crank, balancer, flex plate, etc. can be retained.

jag1886

From what you say you want, I'd just rebuild the original engine, you can get any pistons you want from EGGE. You wanted easy and that's easiest. As far as the transmission if you want to change it, a TH350 is the easiest thing to bolt in. The only hard part is the kick down cable but your engine should have a QJET so maybe an early 70's bracket may work.

Allan R

Wouldn't that also require modification to the accelerator pedal? I thought the 66/67 pivot at the floor pan, unlike the linkage that's used on the 68-72's?

oldcutlass

He could adapt a carb mounted setup for his kickdown.

coppercutlass

Here are my thoughts on the pistons. You can get them from egge but for close to the same price you can get forged flat tops from speed pro and bore the engine if it checks out to the std 350 bore. To bore the engine will only cost a little more than to hone which you would have to do for the new pistons. You would have to balance the roating assembly even with the cast units from egge . Down the road if you want to bump the compression and get a big cam the bottom end is there. So for pretty much the extra cost of machining you will get a much better piston. You could get the probes which are lighter than the speed pros but do cost a little more but not by much.

jag1886

Read what he wants, he wants a stocker not a race car. You don't need forged flat top pistons for most applications. Do a little research on EGGE pistons they are very nice units.

coppercutlass

for an extra couple hundred bucks worth the upgrade

Oldsmaniac

Lots of opinions and choices here.... If it were me I would keep the 330 and rebuild stock or a slight bump in compression, a little warmer cam over stock and dual exhaust. I would do a Turbo 400 trans and enjoy.

cutlassefi

Not sure why you want to go with a TH400. You won't be making enough power to warrant that and they sap a bunch of power as well. Use a TH350.
And they weren't 320hp by todays standards, more like 275, maybe. It's a pretty good bet they didn't have 10.25:1 either. Just sayin.

Even if you want a "stock build" I'd still seriously consider not using the Egge pistons. For very little extra money you can use a SBC piston and rod combo. The Egge's have an old ring pack and a cheap cast design. There's better stuff out there.

Oldsmaniac

Olds put the turbo 400 behind the 330 in the 67 Vista. (optional). It appeals to me because it is era stuff and the Turbo 400 is pretty stout and very dependable and trouble free. Yeah sorta overkill for that 330 but I dont think maximum HP is a concern here. Also the downshift is just like the Jetaway and to me easier install than a throttle change or adaptation to the cable downshift. I am old school for sure. As I said it would be what I would do here not saying its the best way to go.

redoldsman

For what you want, I would keep the 330. That is a great engine and they really run. If I were changing anything, it would be the tranmission.

67 Cutlass Freak

I think Mark might be onto something with the Chevy rod/ piston combo idea. The Olds con rod is a weak link, even in a stock build. The 330 is a good choice for you because you already own it. Your heads have 64CC combustion chambers which will give you higher compression than 350 stock heads. Before you purchase any parts, have your block checked carefully for any problems. If it's not usable, I would opt for the BB. As was previously mentioned, it will cost just about the same amount to build a SB as a BB. Build the short block strong in case you decide to upgrade the top end. Try to find a machinist that is well versed in Oldsmobile's. They are special. You've been given some helpful advice in this thread. Sounds like you're after a reliable cruiser type stock build, so the BB might be overkill for you. Even with the SB you could always upgrade down the road. Mark could even help you convert over to fuel injection for increased liability and better fuel economy. Good luck with your build. Please keep us all posted.

Fun71

And the Egge pistons are short on compression height, just like all the other cast replacement pistons out there. This will result in the compression ratio being lower than what is expected unless additional machining of the block and/or heads is performed to compensate for the shorter pistons. This could result in an engine with sub-8:1 CR if you're not careful.

odddoylerules

Th400 for 330 is a bad choice if you aren't pulling a trailer with a fully loaded wagon and family of 6. Th350 and 330's are awesome together, my dad went 2speed to 3 and its night and day better.

odddoylerules

and on that note if you like Sunday drives, stay small block. Big blocks aren't much fun in the twisties, require heavier springs than u probably have now, and guzzle fuel. The sb overdrive transmission build is cheaper than to bb spec too if you were so inclined. But with tame gears a 3 speed/sb combo is really great to drive.

Allan R

Even if you decide to pull a trailer with the 330/350, you can build the trans to take the load no problem.

odddoylerules

Yup yup. Th350s tow all day, especially with small cid tq figures