beehall

I have to be very careful as to how the windows are rolled up when closing the doors.
They leak when I wash it.
If I crank them up all the way, they seem to be too high.
They need to be adjusted in/out and the stops.
Are they any steps to follow to do this?
I had an appointment with an interior expert, but covid put him out of buisness.
Thanks in advance.

Supernice88

Sent you a pm.

allyolds68

The window adjustment procedure is in the 1968 Fisher Body Manual

beehall

thank you. i am looking it up now and getting the pages printed.

droldsmorland

First, how are all of the weather and roof rail rubber seals??
-Is the top adjusted right?
-Are the door hinges tight?
-Repair these items before window adjustment.

Take pics and measurements of where each adjustment point/bolt/stop is. Mark them.

Inspect the channels and tollers for wear. Replace and lubricate with the right grease.

Pull the seats and door panels. Yes, the front seats too.

With the top-down while sitting in the car start adjusting all 3 windows.

A little at a time. Do the vent then the door then the quarter.

cfair

Late to the party, but the foundation of good window seals are door hinges that aren’t sagging. If they are, you’ll be tempted to meet the window upper edge gap by adjusting the top down.

That fixes the symptom, but is not the cure. The first right (and painful, or time-costly) thing is to get the doors closing square and straight.

Next thing is jointly adjusting the top and windows with the interior out. Once the doors are right, you can adjust the windows and top to meet each other as Olds intended. The top frame, roof rails, windows, regulators all have slots to allow a wide range of adjustment. The goal is to get them tight to water and air/noise seal but still close easily.

I’d recommend getting the top as low and tight as you can. I just learned that moving the front header seal backwards can make the top frame sit _lower_ on the windows. The male hinges at the rear of the car can also be used to lower the top onto the windows. Aim for squareness everywhere so that where there is shape/radius vairance the seals can do their job sealing. Measure gaps with a caliper to get consistency.

Once you have the top where you like it, preferably low, start working on the windows. First get them square (parallel) inward/outward to the body when down, Also make sure they’re square or matching the pattern of the top frame to minimize variance in the window-glass-top-edge-to-roofrail-rubber. Simply put, the top frame and glass are curved, you want to make sure they have a radius or shape as similar as possible so that when you raise the windows, the glass makes a tight, consistent seal against the rubber.

Just to put it out there, the really effective convertible top water/air seal is not the top edge of the glass to the underside of the roof rail. What matters is the inside of the window against the rubber flap. To make the best seal, get the top edge as consistent as possible and really focus on the inside window edge against the rubber flap seal. With the inside seal, you’re looking for a good overlap vertically (1/2” or more) + enough pressure from the window inward on the seal to bend it 1/8” or more.

Anyway, that’s the short form of what I’ve learned on big cars (Not Cutlass/442’s). If you want to learn more, have a look under my username and maybe there are some posts that will help you.

Cheers
Chris