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Ok, I'm starting to go cross eyed trying to figure out what part # I require for the inner tie rod ends on my '66 Toronado. I am easily able to find the replacement outer tie rod ends but the inner ones are confusing. I'm just not sure on what will actually fit.
My parts catalogs show that the PN for 1966 - 1972 inner tie rod ends should be 5695507. There is also a PN showing as applicable to all E bodies from '66-'74: 7817093, but I don't know what the difference could be. Is there a redesign somewhere along the way here?
In any case, if you go to Fusick's website they are offering an inner tie rod end but only for the 1969 to 1978 Toronados. So if the '66-'72 Toros took the same inner tie rod end, why is this part only available for the '69 - '78?? Fusick also says that this same inner tie rod end is applicable to the '67-'78 El Dorado but that original PN is 5699222 or 7819056 so none of these PN's match. Just makes me think there is a redesign going on here that I'm not aware of.
Kanter's website shows the exact same PN as Fusick but it is applicable to the '66 as well as the rest according to them. Bizzarre.
Has anyone replaced their original inner rod ends on the first gens? If so what did you use?
Also as a quick note, I'm fully aware of the existence of RockAuto, Kanter, etc.
My 1971 parts catalog shows the parts as applicable from 1966-1972 Later catalog shows a second PN available. Fusick's strange description on their inner joint.
Kanter's website shows exact same PN as Fusicks. Except theirs states it fits '66 Toros
Last edited by ourkid2000; March 26th, 2024 at 03:41 PM.
That's like a Canadian parts book, isn't it? What's the printing date?
Go back and look at your illustration again. Item 5 in the diagram is the OUTER tie rod end, which is Group 6.233. Item 8 is the INNER tie rod end, which is Group 6.230.
The Jan 1969 US parts book shows 5695506 as the outer tie rod end and 5695507 as the inner tie rod end.
And just for grins, I also checked the June 1967 parts book and the numbers are the same.
NOTE: Edited to correct typo
Last edited by joe_padavano; March 26th, 2024 at 07:21 PM.
That's like a Canadian parts book, isn't it? What's the printing date?
Go back and look at your illustration again. Item 5 in the diagram is the OUTER tie rod end, which is Group 6.230. Item 8 is the INNER tie rod end, which is Group 6.233.
The Jan 1969 US parts book shows 5695507 as the outer tie rod end and 5695506 as the inner tie rod end.
And just for grins, I also checked the June 1967 parts book and the numbers are the same.
Yeah, it's a Canadian book. Printing date of 1971. What gives it away?
Sorry, I should have proofread what I wrote. DOH! Yes, Group 6.230 is the inner, Group 6.233 is the outer. I've edited my earlier post.
No problem Joe, I appreciate you looking into it anyway.
God, it seems like every other part I have to look for on this car goes down this seemingly endless rabbit hole of madness. Nothing but inconsistencies in PNs, one year only deals, unavailable or obsolete parts. Even when you get the same part number, it can be of a different design (see my thread on the two different headlight switch designs on '66 Toros). It's absolutely excruciating.
Chris / OurKid2000 ,
The Inner Tie Rods HAVE been OBSOLETE for many years by all companies....
Those that you illustrate from Kanter ( they reproduced them overseas) and Fusick buys them from them ( they get extra discount from them ) which is why they both have them for roughly the same price....
I can't save you a ton of money on this one --- but I can offer you two (2) *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** T R W *** inner Tie Rods @ $ 59.00 each + actual shipping !!!
Slightly better price and far superior quality --- a nice winning combination.....
Yours, Craig.....( 516 - 485 - 193five )......
Last edited by joe_padavano; March 27th, 2024 at 06:56 AM.
Chris / OurKid2000 ,
The Inner Tie Rods HAVE been OBSOLETE for many years by all companies....
Those that you illustrate from Kanter ( they reproduced them overseas) and Fusick buys them from them ( they get extra discount from them ) which is why they both have them for roughly the same price....
I can't save you a ton of money on this one --- but I can offer you two (2) *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** T R W *** inner Tie Rods @ $ 59.00 each + actual shipping !!!
Slightly better price and far superior quality --- a nice winning combination.....
Yours, Craig.....( 516 - 485 - 193five )......
Oh Craig, you always know just what to say to me.
Last edited by joe_padavano; March 27th, 2024 at 06:56 AM.
God, it seems like every other part I have to look for on this car goes down this seemingly endless rabbit hole of madness. Nothing but inconsistencies in PNs, one year only deals, unavailable or obsolete parts. Even when you get the same part number, it can be of a different design (see my thread on the two different headlight switch designs on '66 Toros). It's absolutely excruciating.
Fun fact. The color diagram for the vacuum hoses is apparently wrong for my headlight switch. The yellow and green must be switched for mine to operate properly. Guess how long I spent trying to figure that out. Mine has the painted on dots just like the other photos I've seen. My green and yellow dots are in the same places as in the diagrams. But if I connect them as indicated, the lights will pop up but not go down. And yes the hoses go to the correct things under the hood, so they're not swapped at the other end. I can only guess that the internal sliding valve thing in the headlight switch is different, somehow. I'm not taking it apart after witnessing bsiegpaint's misery with his headlight switch.
Last edited by mike 66 toro; March 27th, 2024 at 11:10 AM.
Fun fact. The color diagram for the vacuum hoses is apparently wrong for my headlight switch. The yellow and green must be switched for mine to operate properly. Guess how long I spent trying to figure that out. Mine has the painted on dots just like the other photos I've seen. My green and yellow dots are in the same places as in the diagrams. But if I connect them as indicated, the lights will pop up but not go down. And yes the hoses go to the correct things under the hood, so they're not swapped at the other end. I can only guess that the internal sliding valve thing in the headlight switch is different, somehow. I'm not taking it apart after witnessing bsiegpaint's misery with his headlight switch.
May want to double check that. The headlight switch just has a little rubber slider with an "L" shaped slot that connects the 3 ports depending on position. I'd be pretty surprised if yours wasn't like the rest of em.
Usually what happens is the little Tee down by the vacuum tank gets swapped out by a previous owner over the years with one that doesn't have a hole drilled in it. This will prevent the lights from going down when you select the lights to off. The hole (has a little fuzzy filter over it) in the Tee is crucial.
Have a look at that Tee, it's actually the controller of the whole system and if it's not right, you'll be chasing headlight problems forever. I've attached a photo of the rubber selector valve below. I guess it's possible someone modified yours. It would actually be pretty easy to function check it to see if it's hooked up right internally .
See the "L" in the rubber?
Last edited by ourkid2000; March 27th, 2024 at 04:02 PM.
This one, highlighted in Red. It should be located near the vacuum tank. Follow the line that comes off the control lock actuator. Note that there is a second tee by the radiator which connects the two headlamp canisters..........it's NOT that one. That's a solid Tee. I'll have a look for some pictures of mine, I'll post them if I find it.
It turns out this is much more interesting than I thought! I stared at the diagram for a few minutes.
So with my hoses routed "wrong", the headlight switch either routes vacuum to the canisters, or to the diaphragms that release the locks. That would seem to make a lot of sense, and the locks and lifters operate on my car as expected. The lights however take several minutes to go down.
With the hoses routed the correct way, the diaphragms to release the locks get their vacuum from what's stored in the canisters. That's ... very interesting in that it both releases the locks and relieves some of the vacuum from the canisters which should allow them to lower faster. So the fuzzy tee has a tiny leak in it so that the locks eventually re-engage?
I hadn't intended this to turn into a thread hijack - as I originally thought it would just be yet another amusing/maddening anecdote. Never a dull moment with these cars. Perhaps a moderator can split my tangent into a separate thread.
It turns out this is much more interesting than I thought! I stared at the diagram for a few minutes.
So with my hoses routed "wrong", the headlight switch either routes vacuum to the canisters, or to the diaphragms that release the locks. That would seem to make a lot of sense, and the locks and lifters operate on my car as expected. The lights however take several minutes to go down.
With the hoses routed the correct way, the diaphragms to release the locks get their vacuum from what's stored in the canisters. That's ... very interesting in that it both releases the locks and relieves some of the vacuum from the canisters which should allow them to lower faster. So the fuzzy tee has a tiny leak in it so that the locks eventually re-engage?
I hadn't intended this to turn into a thread hijack - as I originally thought it would just be yet another amusing/maddening anecdote. Never a dull moment with these cars. Perhaps a moderator can split my tangent into a separate thread.
Yep, you got it. The canister vacuum has just enough supply to pull the locks away and also release enough vacuum to allow the headlights to be closed by the internal spring when the switch is selected to off. The calibrated hole in the Tee allows this to happen by letting the atmospheric pressure in and the control locks eventually reset to be ready for the next time they have to engage. Also, without the calibrated "leak", if you have a particularly tight system the headlights won't go down (or they will take ages to go down). If you have a bit of a leaky system, your headlights will slowly go down.
On the surface, the system seems simple but the more you look at it you realize how complex it actually is.
Last edited by ourkid2000; March 27th, 2024 at 04:09 PM.
March 26th, 2024, 03:14 PM
