Starting issues 55 olds super 88
January 8th, 2024, 08:52 AM
#81
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We are on track. Your vacuum readings are low and the gauge needle is not steady. If you can't achieve a steady vacuum reading above 15"Hg you have an issue. The fact it starts in any weather is not an indication of any compression reading value. Either you measure compression or you don't.
January 8th, 2024, 08:52 AM
#82
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it should indicate something since a car won’t start without compression. And I’m not saying I won’t test it. I said I’ll see about getting a compression gauge this week. I’m assuming “wet” means when warm and “dry” means when cold? Is the compression test how you check valves as well?
January 8th, 2024, 08:59 AM
#83
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I'll repeat what has been discussed several times on several of your posts.
Dwell>Timing>A/F Mixture
EVERY TIME
Take-nothing for granted.
If you changed your timing - AGAIN - you need to measure and establish the highest steady vacuum reading you can achieve.
Dwell>Timing>A/F Mixture
EVERY TIME
Take-nothing for granted.
If you changed your timing - AGAIN - you need to measure and establish the highest steady vacuum reading you can achieve.
January 8th, 2024, 09:11 AM
#84
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January 8th, 2024, 09:12 AM
#85
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I still got those steps. Yesterday before adjusting timing I set dwell then timing then AF
January 8th, 2024, 09:22 AM
#87
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Tons of YouTube videos to perform a compression test - find one, pick your poison. Perform a compression test w/ engine warm, ignition coil wire removed, all spark plugs removed.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 8th, 2024 at 09:25 AM.
January 8th, 2024, 09:38 AM
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January 9th, 2024, 09:55 AM
#89
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Oh cool thanks for those videos. One question before doing this compression check, when I hooked my vacuum gauge up to adjust AF on the back hose of the carb, when I’m done do I need to plug that line? Since it’s not being used for wipers at this time. I was just seeing what it would do but it’s just a metal line sticking out, I plugged it with my thumb and rpm dropped/sounded worse until I let my thumb off. Did that have something to do with why I had no power going up hill? Engine revs really strong at idle but not so much driving.
January 9th, 2024, 12:07 PM
#90
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Oh cool thanks for those videos. One question before doing this compression check, when I hooked my vacuum gauge up to adjust AF on the back hose of the carb, when I’m done do I need to plug that line? Since it’s not being used for wipers at this time. I was just seeing what it would do but it’s just a metal line sticking out, I plugged it with my thumb and rpm dropped/sounded worse until I let my thumb off. Did that have something to do with why I had no power going up hill? Engine revs really strong at idle but not so much driving.
Those are good questions. I can't provide you w/ a specific answer regarding vacuum plumbing of a 4GC carburetor mounted on a 1955 Olds 88 324 cid engine - I don't have knowledge/experience w/ that combination. Dollars-to-Donuts the shop manual has illustration(s) of the vacuum plumbing/connections. Perhaps another member can answer the vacuum plumbing more directly. I can't speak to correctness of the diagram in the link below (I suspect it is correct) - take a look at it.
Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
Regarding plumbing in general you want to ensure a closed vacuum "system". If you have no ancillary devices which depend on engine vacuum (e.g. PS brake booster, fuel pump, wipers, etc.) connected to any ports located on either carburetor or intake manifold, those ports located on the carburetor &/or intake manifold must be plugged (closed). If they are not, you will have a vacuum leak. If you have any of those devices (yes, I know you have no PS) just remember if you disconnect a line from the carburetor &/or intake manifold port, that port must be plugged/closed to provide a closed system. Make sense? Obviously, you can connect a vacuum gauge either with a "T" (tee) inserted in any intake manifold line or connect it directly to any intake manifold port since by doing so you'll remain in a closed system. You can't have "open" sources which would reduce vacuum under any RPM/load. You know you can disconnect/remove any of those lines, clean them up, reconnect them, ensure they're tight, etc. to help ensure no leaks. It's no different really if you were to find an intake manifold leak (such as a ripped blown out intake manifold gasket) - you want that vacuum "system" to be a closed system so you're not bleeding off vacuum and you can deliver optimum vacuum under any condition. Measurement of the available vacuum really is very useful in diagnosing what's going on with the engine.
I'll mention something in hopes this makes some sense, as well. Remember, when you're setting your A/F mixture low idle screws, we've discussed achieving the highest vacuum possible. Be mindful if the highest vacuum reading you can achieve is say 15"Hg and the A/F mixture screw(s) are turned out 1.5 to 2.0 turns, there is no reason to turn those screws out any further if you can't achieve anything higher than 15"Hg. If you achieve the highest vacuum @ 1.5 turns, leave them @ 1.5 turns since going any higher does not provide any additional benefit and can actually hinder your A/F mixture. Hope that makes some sense.
While this URL link is sorta/kinds opposite of your scenario, it's a good discussion regarding timing and vacuum on a 324 cid engine. The more you read, the more you learn. You're taking in a significant amount of information on your journey. All this information is going to pay off for you big time. That shop manual will help to awaken the grey matter between your ears. Good Luck!
olds 324 iddle issue
January 9th, 2024, 02:39 PM
#91
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You're welcome regarding the videos.
Those are good questions. I can't provide you w/ a specific answer regarding vacuum plumbing of a 4GC carburetor mounted on a 1955 Olds 88 324 cid engine - I don't have knowledge/experience w/ that combination. Dollars-to-Donuts the shop manual has illustration(s) of the vacuum plumbing/connections. Perhaps another member can answer the vacuum plumbing more directly. I can't speak to correctness of the diagram in the link below (I suspect it is correct) - take a look at it.
Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
Regarding plumbing in general you want to ensure a closed vacuum "system". If you have no ancillary devices which depend on engine vacuum (e.g. PS brake booster, fuel pump, wipers, etc.) connected to any ports located on either carburetor or intake manifold, those ports located on the carburetor &/or intake manifold must be plugged (closed). If they are not, you will have a vacuum leak. If you have any of those devices (yes, I know you have no PS) just remember if you disconnect a line from the carburetor &/or intake manifold port, that port must be plugged/closed to provide a closed system. Make sense? Obviously, you can connect a vacuum gauge either with a "T" (tee) inserted in any intake manifold line or connect it directly to any intake manifold port since by doing so you'll remain in a closed system. You can't have "open" sources which would reduce vacuum under any RPM/load. You know you can disconnect/remove any of those lines, clean them up, reconnect them, ensure they're tight, etc. to help ensure no leaks. It's no different really if you were to find an intake manifold leak (such as a ripped blown out intake manifold gasket) - you want that vacuum "system" to be a closed system so you're not bleeding off vacuum and you can deliver optimum vacuum under any condition. Measurement of the available vacuum really is very useful in diagnosing what's going on with the engine.
I'll mention something in hopes this makes some sense, as well. Remember, when you're setting your A/F mixture low idle screws, we've discussed achieving the highest vacuum possible. Be mindful if the highest vacuum reading you can achieve is say 15"Hg and the A/F mixture screw(s) are turned out 1.5 to 2.0 turns, there is no reason to turn those screws out any further if you can't achieve anything higher than 15"Hg. If you achieve the highest vacuum @ 1.5 turns, leave them @ 1.5 turns since going any higher does not provide any additional benefit and can actually hinder your A/F mixture. Hope that makes some sense.
While this URL link is sorta/kinds opposite of your scenario, it's a good discussion regarding timing and vacuum on a 324 cid engine. The more you read, the more you learn. You're taking in a significant amount of information on your journey. All this information is going to pay off for you big time. That shop manual will help to awaken the grey matter between your ears. Good Luck!
olds 324 iddle issue
Those are good questions. I can't provide you w/ a specific answer regarding vacuum plumbing of a 4GC carburetor mounted on a 1955 Olds 88 324 cid engine - I don't have knowledge/experience w/ that combination. Dollars-to-Donuts the shop manual has illustration(s) of the vacuum plumbing/connections. Perhaps another member can answer the vacuum plumbing more directly. I can't speak to correctness of the diagram in the link below (I suspect it is correct) - take a look at it.
Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
Regarding plumbing in general you want to ensure a closed vacuum "system". If you have no ancillary devices which depend on engine vacuum (e.g. PS brake booster, fuel pump, wipers, etc.) connected to any ports located on either carburetor or intake manifold, those ports located on the carburetor &/or intake manifold must be plugged (closed). If they are not, you will have a vacuum leak. If you have any of those devices (yes, I know you have no PS) just remember if you disconnect a line from the carburetor &/or intake manifold port, that port must be plugged/closed to provide a closed system. Make sense? Obviously, you can connect a vacuum gauge either with a "T" (tee) inserted in any intake manifold line or connect it directly to any intake manifold port since by doing so you'll remain in a closed system. You can't have "open" sources which would reduce vacuum under any RPM/load. You know you can disconnect/remove any of those lines, clean them up, reconnect them, ensure they're tight, etc. to help ensure no leaks. It's no different really if you were to find an intake manifold leak (such as a ripped blown out intake manifold gasket) - you want that vacuum "system" to be a closed system so you're not bleeding off vacuum and you can deliver optimum vacuum under any condition. Measurement of the available vacuum really is very useful in diagnosing what's going on with the engine.
I'll mention something in hopes this makes some sense, as well. Remember, when you're setting your A/F mixture low idle screws, we've discussed achieving the highest vacuum possible. Be mindful if the highest vacuum reading you can achieve is say 15"Hg and the A/F mixture screw(s) are turned out 1.5 to 2.0 turns, there is no reason to turn those screws out any further if you can't achieve anything higher than 15"Hg. If you achieve the highest vacuum @ 1.5 turns, leave them @ 1.5 turns since going any higher does not provide any additional benefit and can actually hinder your A/F mixture. Hope that makes some sense.
While this URL link is sorta/kinds opposite of your scenario, it's a good discussion regarding timing and vacuum on a 324 cid engine. The more you read, the more you learn. You're taking in a significant amount of information on your journey. All this information is going to pay off for you big time. That shop manual will help to awaken the grey matter between your ears. Good Luck!
olds 324 iddle issue
January 9th, 2024, 03:58 PM
#92
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all great info and very useful to me. Is plugging a line the same as connecting it? Like since I’m not using my wipers and that line doesn’t need to be plugged in. Correct I have no power anything and no broken lines my car is very simple. The fuel pump is the original and vacuum half works but is not hooked. Yes I’m counting the days until my shop manual comes.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 9th, 2024 at 04:02 PM.
January 9th, 2024, 04:07 PM
#93
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You're welcome regarding the videos.
Those are good questions. I can't provide you w/ a specific answer regarding vacuum plumbing of a 4GC carburetor mounted on a 1955 Olds 88 324 cid engine - I don't have knowledge/experience w/ that combination. Dollars-to-Donuts the shop manual has illustration(s) of the vacuum plumbing/connections. Perhaps another member can answer the vacuum plumbing more directly. I can't speak to correctness of the diagram in the link below (I suspect it is correct) - take a look at it.
Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
Regarding plumbing in general you want to ensure a closed vacuum "system". If you have no ancillary devices which depend on engine vacuum (e.g. PS brake booster, fuel pump, wipers, etc.) connected to any ports located on either carburetor or intake manifold, those ports located on the carburetor &/or intake manifold must be plugged (closed). If they are not, you will have a vacuum leak. If you have any of those devices (yes, I know you have no PS) just remember if you disconnect a line from the carburetor &/or intake manifold port, that port must be plugged/closed to provide a closed system. Make sense? Obviously, you can connect a vacuum gauge either with a "T" (tee) inserted in any intake manifold line or connect it directly to any intake manifold port since by doing so you'll remain in a closed system. You can't have "open" sources which would reduce vacuum under any RPM/load. You know you can disconnect/remove any of those lines, clean them up, reconnect them, ensure they're tight, etc. to help ensure no leaks. It's no different really if you were to find an intake manifold leak (such as a ripped blown out intake manifold gasket) - you want that vacuum "system" to be a closed system so you're not bleeding off vacuum and you can deliver optimum vacuum under any condition. Measurement of the available vacuum really is very useful in diagnosing what's going on with the engine.
I'll mention something in hopes this makes some sense, as well. Remember, when you're setting your A/F mixture low idle screws, we've discussed achieving the highest vacuum possible. Be mindful if the highest vacuum reading you can achieve is say 15"Hg and the A/F mixture screw(s) are turned out 1.5 to 2.0 turns, there is no reason to turn those screws out any further if you can't achieve anything higher than 15"Hg. If you achieve the highest vacuum @ 1.5 turns, leave them @ 1.5 turns since going any higher does not provide any additional benefit and can actually hinder your A/F mixture. Hope that makes some sense.
While this URL link is sorta/kinds opposite of your scenario, it's a good discussion regarding timing and vacuum on a 324 cid engine. The more you read, the more you learn. You're taking in a significant amount of information on your journey. All this information is going to pay off for you big time. That shop manual will help to awaken the grey matter between your ears. Good Luck!
olds 324 iddle issue
Those are good questions. I can't provide you w/ a specific answer regarding vacuum plumbing of a 4GC carburetor mounted on a 1955 Olds 88 324 cid engine - I don't have knowledge/experience w/ that combination. Dollars-to-Donuts the shop manual has illustration(s) of the vacuum plumbing/connections. Perhaps another member can answer the vacuum plumbing more directly. I can't speak to correctness of the diagram in the link below (I suspect it is correct) - take a look at it.
Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
Regarding plumbing in general you want to ensure a closed vacuum "system". If you have no ancillary devices which depend on engine vacuum (e.g. PS brake booster, fuel pump, wipers, etc.) connected to any ports located on either carburetor or intake manifold, those ports located on the carburetor &/or intake manifold must be plugged (closed). If they are not, you will have a vacuum leak. If you have any of those devices (yes, I know you have no PS) just remember if you disconnect a line from the carburetor &/or intake manifold port, that port must be plugged/closed to provide a closed system. Make sense? Obviously, you can connect a vacuum gauge either with a "T" (tee) inserted in any intake manifold line or connect it directly to any intake manifold port since by doing so you'll remain in a closed system. You can't have "open" sources which would reduce vacuum under any RPM/load. You know you can disconnect/remove any of those lines, clean them up, reconnect them, ensure they're tight, etc. to help ensure no leaks. It's no different really if you were to find an intake manifold leak (such as a ripped blown out intake manifold gasket) - you want that vacuum "system" to be a closed system so you're not bleeding off vacuum and you can deliver optimum vacuum under any condition. Measurement of the available vacuum really is very useful in diagnosing what's going on with the engine.
I'll mention something in hopes this makes some sense, as well. Remember, when you're setting your A/F mixture low idle screws, we've discussed achieving the highest vacuum possible. Be mindful if the highest vacuum reading you can achieve is say 15"Hg and the A/F mixture screw(s) are turned out 1.5 to 2.0 turns, there is no reason to turn those screws out any further if you can't achieve anything higher than 15"Hg. If you achieve the highest vacuum @ 1.5 turns, leave them @ 1.5 turns since going any higher does not provide any additional benefit and can actually hinder your A/F mixture. Hope that makes some sense.
While this URL link is sorta/kinds opposite of your scenario, it's a good discussion regarding timing and vacuum on a 324 cid engine. The more you read, the more you learn. You're taking in a significant amount of information on your journey. All this information is going to pay off for you big time. That shop manual will help to awaken the grey matter between your ears. Good Luck!
olds 324 iddle issue
January 9th, 2024, 04:16 PM
#95
Art S
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Chris I might be able to help with the carb but I'll need you to take some pics of the engine bay. With the air breather off the carb take a shot of the bay from standing in front, one almost directly overhead, one from the left, one from the right and a couple of the linkage. I want to get an over all view.
I don't remember seeing anywhere in your posts as to where you live. There are members here from all over the place and maybe someone near to you could lend you a hand. I've always been a better learner by someone showing me how to do something vs reading.
I don't remember seeing anywhere in your posts as to where you live. There are members here from all over the place and maybe someone near to you could lend you a hand. I've always been a better learner by someone showing me how to do something vs reading.
January 9th, 2024, 04:29 PM
#96
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no I wish I had a dwell meter I just use feeler gauges and it’s set at .016. Ok tachometer I’ll try to get that or a dwell meter.
January 9th, 2024, 04:32 PM
#97
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Chris I might be able to help with the carb but I'll need you to take some pics of the engine bay. With the air breather off the carb take a shot of the bay from standing in front, one almost directly overhead, one from the left, one from the right and a couple of the linkage. I want to get an over all view.
I don't remember seeing anywhere in your posts as to where you live. There are members here from all over the place and maybe someone near to you could lend you a hand. I've always been a better learner by someone showing me how to do something vs reading.
I don't remember seeing anywhere in your posts as to where you live. There are members here from all over the place and maybe someone near to you could lend you a hand. I've always been a better learner by someone showing me how to do something vs reading.
January 9th, 2024, 05:08 PM
#98
Art S
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that would be awesome! I live in Santa Fe New Mexico. I’ll get you all those pics tomorrow I’ll post them on here. As I said I still got my carb off and disassembled but it will be on tomorrow. Would you like pics of it completely put together before I put it back on the manifold?
If you already have the carb apart wait until you get the service manual before you put it back together. The book gives exact instructions on how to assemble it and make adjustments as it goes along. The adjustments are important to get it to run properly. It'll give assembly adjustments and then more adjustments once it's on the car to the linkages for the gas pedal and transmission.
Take your time and take it one step at a time, I'm not going anywhere.
January 9th, 2024, 05:26 PM
#99
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I agree with Supernice88. You need to wait until you have the manual before reassembling that carburetor and assemble/adjust per the manuals instructions. There is a LOT of minutia that is REALLY important for making the factory adjustments that put the internal and external adjustments back to spec. If you don't do that, you just end up chasing you tail on carburetor issues.
January 10th, 2024, 08:25 AM
#100
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Your wiper vacuum comes off the double action fuel pump and is not connected to manifold vacuum whatsoever. If you follow that vacuum line back, you will see it ends at the fuel pump, which is run by a cam lobe internally in the engine...Tedd
January 10th, 2024, 08:32 AM
#101
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Tedd - Since we're interested in measuring idle vacuum we want to measure manifold vacuum at idle. What is the best (correct) port to measure manifold vacuum?
January 10th, 2024, 09:18 AM
#102
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As said, I don’t know the vacuum plumbing on this vehicle. With that said, unless I’m mistaken, I would suggest (ASSUME) a Power Brake booster would be connected to manifold vacuum even on this vehicle (even if it had no PB booster); albeit, it would seem to make sense at least one place to measure manifold vacuum would be the location where a PB booster would be connected?
January 12th, 2024, 11:24 AM
#104
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Hey guys I got my shop manual. I agree about making the correct adjustments on the carb and I will this weekend, however I think those adjusters are designed for an engine that runs tip top and doesn’t have 168,000 miles on it like mine, I’m assuming it’s 168 even tho it says 68k. The line on the back of my carb was hooked up to the wiper motor I’m not sure it is meant for that though. So your saying both ports on top of fuel pump go to both ports on the wiper motor? Either way I’ll look in the book on that part. I was reading on valves because I was looking into adjusting them, is it true you have to remove the cylinder head to adjust them?
January 12th, 2024, 12:46 PM
#105
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Hey guys I got my shop manual. I agree about making the correct adjustments on the carb and I will this weekend, however I think those adjusters are designed for an engine that runs tip top and doesn’t have 168,000 miles on it like mine, I’m assuming it’s 168 even tho it says 68k. The line on the back of my carb was hooked up to the wiper motor I’m not sure it is meant for that though. So your saying both ports on top of fuel pump go to both ports on the wiper motor? Either way I’ll look in the book on that part. I was reading on valves because I was looking into adjusting them, is it true you have to remove the cylinder head to adjust them?
January 12th, 2024, 01:21 PM
#106
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Hey guys I got my shop manual. I agree about making the correct adjustments on the carb and I will this weekend, however I think those adjusters are designed for an engine that runs tip top and doesn’t have 168,000 miles on it like mine, I’m assuming it’s 168 even tho it says 68k. The line on the back of my carb was hooked up to the wiper motor I’m not sure it is meant for that though. So your saying both ports on top of fuel pump go to both ports on the wiper motor? Either way I’ll look in the book on that part. I was reading on valves because I was looking into adjusting them, is it true you have to remove the cylinder head to adjust them?
January 12th, 2024, 01:22 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 02:01 PM
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This is the link I sent you >>> Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
January 12th, 2024, 02:13 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 02:50 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 03:44 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 03:46 PM
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This is the link I sent you >>> Windshield Wiper vacuum diagram for 1955
January 12th, 2024, 03:54 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 04:06 PM
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Like anything, you can begin assuming you have the OEM original equipment, but keep in mind many of these old beasts had owners who might have done the ***** Nilly on parts, as well. So, double-check stuff as you move along. Stuff like...is it the OEM correct fuel pump mounted to the correct 324 engine block (as opposed to a 1950 block). This is all in your court, don't leave anything to chance - yes, MANY people have changed out parts in cars over 75 years. Just saying - leave nothing to chance.
1955 olds vacuum lines - windshield wipers
1955 olds vacuum lines - windshield wipers
January 12th, 2024, 04:27 PM
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January 12th, 2024, 04:34 PM
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Like anything, you can begin assuming you have the OEM original equipment, but keep in mind many of these old beasts had owners who might have done the ***** Nilly on parts, as well. So, double-check stuff as you move along. Stuff like...is it the OEM correct fuel pump mounted to the correct 324 engine block (as opposed to a 1950 block). This is all in your court, don't leave anything to chance - yes, MANY people have changed out parts in cars over 75 years. Just saying - leave nothing to chance.
1955 olds vacuum lines - windshield wipers
1955 olds vacuum lines - windshield wipers
January 12th, 2024, 04:34 PM
#119
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I agree, luckily mine is all original even the fuel pump I replaced. Well I had the original fuel pump still do but it was shot so I bought the same exact one except on there’s a hard line and the other port has to use a rubber line either way but I’ll be checking it all in the book
January 12th, 2024, 04:39 PM
#120
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I'm hoping/thinking you're trying to identify correct vacuum routing to help w/ fine-tuning your engine - that's a good thing & the direction I'm hoping you're heading. If you have any hopes/ideas of troubleshooting/identifying issues w/ the wiper motor itself - I'd suggest you put the entire wiper motor assembly idea to bed/rest and save it for an entirely separate project down the road. These old jalopies have very unique wiper systems and after 75 years most of them are quite frankly shot-to-hell. They require dedicated repair work, meticulously rebuilding &/or sourcing correct parts - or, install an electric wiper assembly. With that said, remember what I stated in earlier posts - you want to measure intake manifold vacuum to establish your best/highest achievable vacuum (like a closed system). So, you can completely disconnect the wiper vacuum hoses and just leave as a unconnected separate assembly until you have the time to work on the wipers alone. Plug each port where a wiper vacuum might have been connected. Have fun reading your new manual - you'll learn tons.
