When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am looking around for exhaust for my 1956 rocket 324 in my base 88 model Olds. My ultimate goal is to convert this single exhaust to a dual exhaust. I want the exhaust to have a very deep bass tone if I can help it.
I see I already need to get a blocker plate for the right exhaust manifold. I also see Waldron's exhaust makes a stainless steel dual exhaust for this model of car. In addition, it may also look like I need to find a rear bumper with the dual exhaust inserts. If possible, I would also like to include an H pipe for better low-end torque and a deeper tone.
What mufflers would you guys recommend for the desired effect? Is it possible to include an H pipe on this frame without modification? Has anyone successfully does the single to dual conversion before here? Would anyone with the dual exhaust inserts on their rear bumper please take some pictures of it from below? How does it hook up?
Last edited by Ihatefiberglass; December 12th, 2020 at 09:25 PM.
The 56 dual exhaust ornaments are mainly for looks. Exhaust is actually routed a little bit short of the bumper. But if you like the look I think Fusick has them reproduction.
The 56 dual exhaust ornaments are mainly for looks. Exhaust is actually routed a little bit short of the bumper. But if you like the look I think Fusick has them reproduction.
Something like this ^^^. As rocketraider mentioned, those exhaust tips are ornaments. I've never seen it done, but I suppose you could knock out the backer plates and run exhaust through them. Also remember that the bumper for a dual exhaust '56 is different- it has notches for those exhaust tip ornaments.
Last edited by ignachuck; December 13th, 2020 at 03:06 AM.
Reason: more info
Go junkyarding. Plenty of late model vehicles have interesting exhaust tips in their rear "bumpers". The rectangular tips on 93-02 Camaros would have a similar look and could be routed below the bumper bar.
You are fortunate on a 56 that the frame is already cut of dual exhaust. I used Waldron on my 54 and am very pleased. My 54 has power steering and the left pipe makes some strange bends but it fit like a glove. I did not do stainless since I figure I don't drive my car enough to ever rust the exhaust out. I used the original glasspack Smitty mufflers which have a nice tone and are period correct. Here are the tips I have on my 54. They are reproduction of 55-56 Mopar tips. The deflect the exhaust downward. You either like them or you don't. Here is a link to the company that sells them. 1955-1956 Mopar Stainless Steel Exhaust Deflector (each) - Night Prowlers Kustom Car Parts Here is a picture.
As mentioned above, there are lots of ways to do it and make it come out looking great. Also, scroll down to the bottom of this thread for some other discussions that may help you.
Here is a couple other things. I didn't see anyway to put in and H pipe. If your car has power steering then I would use the Waldron exhaust for sure. If you don't have power steering you could probably have a local muffler shop make the pipe for the left side. Most muffler shops don't want to cut the frame but you don't have to worry about that.
I boxed the body, then sleeved the frame to do this side exhaust on a 57 chevy I been doing. A little outside the box not exactly what you might be after but it's a thought.
Last edited by coppercutlass; December 13th, 2020 at 04:30 PM.
You are fortunate on a 56 that the frame is already cut of dual exhaust. I used Waldron on my 54 and am very pleased. My 54 has power steering and the left pipe makes some strange bends but it fit like a glove. I did not do stainless since I figure I don't drive my car enough to ever rust the exhaust out. I used the original glasspack Smitty mufflers which have a nice tone and are period correct. Here are the tips I have on my 54. They are reproduction of 55-56 Mopar tips. The deflect the exhaust downward. You either like them or you don't. Here is a link to the company that sells them. 1955-1956 Mopar Stainless Steel Exhaust Deflector (each) - Night Prowlers Kustom Car Parts Here is a picture.
Those exhaust tips actually look really good. I'll check them out.
I boxed the body, then sleeved the frame to do this side exhaust on a 57 chevy I been doing. A little outside the box not exactly what you might be after but it's a thought.
Oh, that's a good idea welding a tube in the frame to sleeve an exhaust through. I would have never thought of that on my own.
Unlike the 57 Chevy you have a X frame that kind of gets in the way of a direct rout, there should be a hole in the frame already for the left hand side exhaust unless a standard 88 frame is different than a super or a 98 and I don't remember a cutout on the bumper on a standard 88. There are no cutouts on the bumper of a 54 or 55 and Glenn and I both have added duels with no issues so I don't think that will be a problem....Tedd
An X-frame is even better to hole, because contrary to ordinary box frame holing, the X allows a less restrictive angle, instaed of the 90 angle done to the '57. However, nothing says that the hole must be drilled at a straight angle through a box frame
Here a '60 holed from the factory:
You can actually still run it through the frame just would have to do it in a different area and route it back. Originally on the 57 i was gonna run it through the frame at the front then run it along side the frame with a 90 out of the 1/4 panel or 45 through. It can be done many ways .
Frank that is a great illustration of how the exhaust fits in the frame. It also shows that it is literally impossible to install an H pipe. It is interesting to see how long the factory mufflers were.
An H-pipe is just an inexpensive replacement for the original crossover pipe on dual exhaust. The one manifold is correct. The other is for single exhaust, because the correct one for duals would have had two outlets instead of just one, like the manifold pictured at the bottom:
What you are saying makes no sense. Dual exhaust do not have a crossover pipe. The crossover pipe is removed when duals are installed and one of the outlets on the manifold with two outlets is blocked off. An H pipe is used to equalize pressure between the two separate sides and it helps to eliminate drone.
...The crossover pipe is removed when duals are installed and one of the outlets on the manifold with two outlets is blocked off...
Could be. Mine had the second outlet. I can't find any illustration showing whether or not.
Ideally, a crossover nearest to the engine would produce highest horsepower. Crossing underneath the engine would keep it from getting in the way
55-54 have a different issue to overcome than a 56 so the path to the rear would probably be different. We have a booster tank where the left muffler would be that needs to be addressed. I'm not sure what Glenn did but I had the booster tank sucked against the frame rail and the muffler (Flow Master 50 series) run behind it and the exhaust pipe exit between the spring perch and out to the left of the gas tank. Looks like a stock 56 from the outside but there isn't a straight section of pipe anywhere. Don't go to a muffler shop that likes you because they won't by the time you leave..... Tedd
Tedd the Smittys I used are round and did not interfere with the vacuum tank. I could see where the oval shaped Flowmasters would be a problem. The tightest fit on mine was the left pipe snaking around the power steering. It is a very tight fit.
Yeah, wow, those exhaust illustrations are baddass. I do believe I have the holes in the drivers side through the X-frame. I think I've settled on ordering an exhaust set from Waldrons, but i'm curious how much of a price difference it would be if I ordered mufflers from a different source. I'll call them tomorrow.
Once you start worrying about price, except when it comes to ordering a stainless steel system, that's when the disappointments start. You really don't want anything made in Parts Unknown.
What I did back then was to replace the stock mufflers with glasspacks and kept the stock resonators. It wasn't loud enough to get me into trouble, while driving with an eggshell between my foot and the gas pedal and at idle. It only got loud, once I pedalled the metal. But, from within the vehicle, the Quadrajet's golfball-sized secondaries and the burning rubber helped drown out the exhaust
Sorry I spelled it wrong. Everybody calls them "Smittys" but they are actually Smithys. Here is a link to Speedway Motors where I bought mine. They come in several lengths but I used 30" which tend to be a little quieter.
Here is another muffler they carry which are Porter mufflers. They are about twice the price but are packed with stainless steel and are made from heavy gauge steel. I would love to have a set of these.
For a nice deep sounding glasspack (or steel packed, or no packing), I love Brockman Mellowtones. They are a small family business, and they can custom make mufflers for you. You pick the packing and length of the muffler. The longer, the quieter, not that you could call glasspacks "quiet". But you can tone them down a bit. Great people to deal with. I had them custom make some steel packs for my "Quad" exhaust on my 56.
Here are a couple Brockmen in action. To tone them down, all you need to do ist to hook up resonators behind them. I don't know why an unrelated video is appearing, after I copied and pasted the one showing the 283 pick-up truck. This has never happened before:
The folks that make the Brockman Mellowtones really are nice folks but man those things are loud. I put a set on my 54 and took them off a week later because they were so loud. I didn't use any resonators and replaced them with Smithy's. The Brockmans are well built but in my case they were too loud. The link for the 283 pickup doesn't work. It is just a picture.
...Is it possible to include an H pipe on this frame without modification?...
It would be a lot easier to bolt on a right-side manifold, replacing the left one and then fabricate a connecting pipe for both, as long as the rear left sparkplugs are still accesable.
If possible, have the pipe bent so that it runs underneath the engine, with a heatshield between it and the oil pan.
Of course, you'll probably have to cut off the generator's holding bracket, if it gets in the way. A custom pipe from the manifold to muffler or perferably glasspack would also have to get bent.
The only drawback would be sacrificing the heat riser. If you warm up the engine to operating temperature before driving, the heat riser would be rendered obsolete anyway
It is real simple. There is no need to replace or modify either of the manifolds. Order a kit from Waldron's and install it. Little if anything would be gained by connecting the two manifolds together. What you are talking about would probably be impossible to install and would be a big expense for no gain.
Using those restrictive manifols, there is little gain, no matter if both sides get connected at the manifolds or through an X. The thread author posed the question and he got his answer. If he doesen't want to switch to headers, why don't you just let him have his fun with his current set-up? After all, it's his car. Not anyone else's
The original OP never asked about headers and none are available for his car. I never suggested he switch to headers. You are the one trying to complicate this on a car you know nothing about. I have given him advice to achieve what he wants because I have done it on a very similar car. You are correct that it is his car. He should build it to suit himself and nobody else.
Well, you're half right, on that one. Unless someone went out of his way to weld together tuned headers, better than nothing halfway ones were to be had:
Originally Posted by redoldsman
...You are the one trying to complicate this on a car you know nothing about...
As if what we're dealing with is complicated
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; December 22nd, 2020 at 12:13 PM.
Just my opinion but were talking about a 65 year old car here and the conversion discussed here is more about sound rather than getting the last HP out of a car that has only about 200+ HP to begin with. It ain't a race car. This isn't a easy conversion to begin with so lets not lead the PO down a path with a bunch of chuck holes in it. If you haven't been there please don't just throw something out even though it may have worked on a much newer car with a different engine and frame...... Tedd
The thread starter posed questions and awaits answers. If the solutions to his wishes get over his head, nobody's holding him up at gunpoint, in order to force him to do anything. He always has the option of leaving things alone. Furthermore, he's showing up here for help. We're not going over to his place for giving orders.
What's the point of ignoring him? If ignoring were to be policy, then there's no point in having a forum. In which case, Jalopy Journal would at least be helpfull.
As far as the difference between a fat old heap and a modern pregnant roller skate goes, I wish I had the room he has to work with once more
Anymore, such issues have become simple and automated. To make it easier, it's only to connect a plex pipe to where you want your pipe, imprison it through wrapping and then set it up to get copied:
December 12th, 2020, 09:22 PM
As if what we're dealing with is complicated
