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I picked up an aftermarket deck lid, and a new Cutlass script from Fusick. Getting ready to drill holes, but realized there is no way to access the speed nuts that came with the script, once it is mounted. My original had barrel clips in the holes, but the prongs on the new script are thicker to accept speed nuts.
Im now thinking some type of adhesive might be the solution.
Has anyone run into this issue and found a better way to mount the Cutlass script?
The adhesive above will work. IMO you might be better off using 2 sided tape. The 3M adhesive can be a bit aggressive, especially on fresh paint, it might etch/stain whereas the tape won’t. There are loads of foam style 2 sided tape that you can use but this thin, clear style won’t show and you can see thru it while trimming. The common foam style would work just fine but with a sharp stare it can be seen, not obviously, as it is used on all modern cars. The tape is more work but reversible if they need to come off and unlikely to leave any mark. I have even done “Cutlass” script emblems with it, what a tedious chore! I have cars it has held up 20 years with no sign of impending failure. You may be able to source it at a local Body Shop supplier or stop by a shop and see if they have some and will cut you off a few feet for a five dollar bill. Not all body shops use it, they use mostly the foam type.
This opinion comes from a retired 30+ year body shop guy.
The 3M mounting tape works. There are scripts that were mounted to the Custom Cruiser with it 20+ years ago and still FIRMLY attached. Some of those were trimmed very closely around lettering.
I’ve done 70 scripts and even sleeker 72 scripts, still stuck 20 years later. It is a pain in the dick but the transparent tape is the difference for success vs foam tape on those dainty emblems. I like the tape as mentioned above but also if you “mis stick” the emblem with the adhesive you will almost surely have visible smear with those scripts once you move it 1 degree or couple tenths if a millimeter. With the tape you ever so lightly touch emblem to panel, pull it back if crooked and adjust, then step back for the panoramic view. If crooked, move it, if good, go ahead and press it down. In this particular case you have a nice reference in the deck lid edge to line it up with but it’s easy to be off a smidge when you’re up close and have it obvious when you step back. I’ve used both literally hundreds of times but generally used the adhesive on problem emblems or POS cars that didn’t pay or weren’t worth stripping & retaping the emblems. I’ve used the foam tape thousands of times, without exaggeration.
If one is not the patient type with tedious detail tasks then the tape on a script emblem is not for you, use the adhesive but don’t think it is a clean, easy alternative. Can always drill it OE style but that should be done before paint or conscientiously touched up if already painted.
Last edited by bccan; August 3rd, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
I know I purchased trunk script, but maybe the body shop is trying to mount the fender script on the trunk. I still have the oem, quick trip to the shop today to verify. Pictures soon.
And thank you to those that have replied so far. Very much appreciated... George
Well it is the correct script. The picture shows to oem mounting post has small flanges to secure it in the hole, while the replacement posts are smooth. After reviewing pros and cons of your suggestions, the body shop decided to drill holes and use epoxy in the holes and posts.
Next, dealing with that pillar stainless trim. might be posing a new thread on that soon.
thanks again!
August 3rd, 2021, 07:43 AM
