Tips on installing a convertible top
#1
Tips on installing a convertible top
Hello all,
Any info or tips on installing a 1972 convertible top before I proceed? There are several manufacturers out the there, is there one I should look at for quallity?
Thanks,
Greg
Any info or tips on installing a 1972 convertible top before I proceed? There are several manufacturers out the there, is there one I should look at for quallity?
Thanks,
Greg
#2
Hydroelectric has tops by Robbins, these are goods tops, from my experience. I have not installed a 70-72 Cutlass top. I did my top on my 88 Mustang GT . If you work on cars you can do the work, just take your time, and take lot of pictures of the current top, the location of seams to the frame, dimensions of the bows to the body, to the trim, to other bows, to the stitching lines on the top, to the trim along the body, to the frame.... Lots of pictures, lots of dimensions, you will not be sorry... This will help you center it and position correctly. Always work from the back of the car to the front, but always check your bow positions and the bow retainer positions on the top to your dimension, and the body, the frame etc..Test fit, over and over to you feel you understand what you need to do..Best to do in summer, you will need the worm sun to stretch the top. You will not believe how much the top will stretch, must stretch to get it to fit correctly. Get a good air staple gun and good staples, different lengths... I used 3M supper 77 spray glue..good stuff. . Replace the tack trips if needed…Research, get a book, look on line for more tips. I studied this for a few weeks, before going at it. one other thing, replace the pads and glass as well. Again the glass portion/top portion position is critical in setting the rear most bow position at the rear..Top install is not real easy, but not real hard once you do one. Take your time, allow time and research. thanks
#3
The top on mine came from Kee, ordered from Year one. The shop that did it did pretty well, but were a half inch off, so it is a little struggle to latch it. Fit around the rear windows could be better. However the top quality is very good with glass window (preferred over the cheap plastic.)
Finding a reputable shop is the most important - one that has done many of these old cars and are familiar with them. Buy the body manual so they will have it available, too (as if they would read it anyway.....)
If you have not done a top before, this is a job I would leave to a pro, as it is too easy to make just the wrong cut and the top would be ruined. Just the wrong attachment and the fit would be off.
This may well work in cool climates but it cannot withstand high heat.
I tried it on vinyl and it liquified when temps got to 120*, which is very easy in TX. Up to 150* in a closed car is possible in summer here.
3M 08090 is recommended here.
Finding a reputable shop is the most important - one that has done many of these old cars and are familiar with them. Buy the body manual so they will have it available, too (as if they would read it anyway.....)
If you have not done a top before, this is a job I would leave to a pro, as it is too easy to make just the wrong cut and the top would be ruined. Just the wrong attachment and the fit would be off.
This may well work in cool climates but it cannot withstand high heat.
I tried it on vinyl and it liquified when temps got to 120*, which is very easy in TX. Up to 150* in a closed car is possible in summer here.
3M 08090 is recommended here.
#4
I did one of these on a '72 Skylark some years ago.
If you've never done it before, it is a painstaking, slow-moving, frustrating pain in the a$$,
BUT if you're prepared to deal with the annoyance caused by a huge number of unfamiliar variables and activities, and don't have a set timetable (you've got to be able to walk away from it if you start to feel steamed up), you can get it done well in a long day, or better yet, two.
Go through the Fisher Body manual and any instructions that came with the top a couple of times with the car in front of you before you start.
Remember that the last top may have been put on by a total bozo, so make and record all required measurements and marks, but keep in mind that any and all of them could be completely wrong. If you have access to someone with an original top (or a very good restoration - their professionally done top may have been done wrong, too), check it out closely with the instructions in hand.
You need at least one good helper for this. Drunken barroom buddies are not a good idea.
If your wife / girlfriend tends to start looking away and making sighing noises after the first hour of helping you, then she's not a good idea either. If your helper has half a brain and good mechanical skills, then you will fight at some point about the right way to do some important thing that the instructions leave vague. This is better than totally missing something because you didn't have a second set of eyes looking at it.
Definitely buy both the top and the rear window together to be sure they fit together.
Definitely buy all pads, etc.
Definitely buy new tacking strips.
You MAY not need the cables and springs, but I'd buy 'em anyway because you never know what you'll find once it's apart.
You may want to clean up your bows once the top is apart, but don't make the mistake of taking it all apart and then getting back to it a week or more later - you'll forget more than you think.
The header is mostly sheetmetal, and may be rusted, or even rusted through in spots. That top material covers a multitude of sins.
You will have to decide whether to clean it up or replace it. A quick sandblasting, followed by either fiberglass or POR (depending on how bad it is) should keep it going until the next top.
Good luck!
- Eric
If you've never done it before, it is a painstaking, slow-moving, frustrating pain in the a$$,
BUT if you're prepared to deal with the annoyance caused by a huge number of unfamiliar variables and activities, and don't have a set timetable (you've got to be able to walk away from it if you start to feel steamed up), you can get it done well in a long day, or better yet, two.
Go through the Fisher Body manual and any instructions that came with the top a couple of times with the car in front of you before you start.
Remember that the last top may have been put on by a total bozo, so make and record all required measurements and marks, but keep in mind that any and all of them could be completely wrong. If you have access to someone with an original top (or a very good restoration - their professionally done top may have been done wrong, too), check it out closely with the instructions in hand.
You need at least one good helper for this. Drunken barroom buddies are not a good idea.
If your wife / girlfriend tends to start looking away and making sighing noises after the first hour of helping you, then she's not a good idea either. If your helper has half a brain and good mechanical skills, then you will fight at some point about the right way to do some important thing that the instructions leave vague. This is better than totally missing something because you didn't have a second set of eyes looking at it.
Definitely buy both the top and the rear window together to be sure they fit together.
Definitely buy all pads, etc.
Definitely buy new tacking strips.
You MAY not need the cables and springs, but I'd buy 'em anyway because you never know what you'll find once it's apart.
You may want to clean up your bows once the top is apart, but don't make the mistake of taking it all apart and then getting back to it a week or more later - you'll forget more than you think.
The header is mostly sheetmetal, and may be rusted, or even rusted through in spots. That top material covers a multitude of sins.
You will have to decide whether to clean it up or replace it. A quick sandblasting, followed by either fiberglass or POR (depending on how bad it is) should keep it going until the next top.
Good luck!
- Eric
#5
I did not have any issues with the 3M product, or the top install. It came out very well, been on for 3-4 years. Like anything if you have the ability to take on most of your car projects, this is one that can be done, as well. First top I did was hard, second was easier. You will same alot of money and yes you can get it to look as good as a shop can..better since you are taking your time.
#6
I think you guys talked me out of attempting it myself. I have a line on a guy who has done several, will give him a call. Is the general concensus that year one tops are good tops? I will also check out hydroelectric to compare.
Again, Thanks
Again, Thanks
#7
Can't exactly say that - it depends on what company actually makes the tops - Year one just sells them.
Mine was made by Kee Auto Tops http://www.keeautotop.com/convertibletops.html
It was bought from year one over 3 years ago, so not sure if they still sell that line. It appears they do, but a call to them will confirm it.
If you ask for a color sample sheet, the mfgr will be listed. I still have mine.
Kee seems to be an industry leader, now that I look into them more...
Mine was made by Kee Auto Tops http://www.keeautotop.com/convertibletops.html
It was bought from year one over 3 years ago, so not sure if they still sell that line. It appears they do, but a call to them will confirm it.
If you ask for a color sample sheet, the mfgr will be listed. I still have mine.
Kee seems to be an industry leader, now that I look into them more...
#9
Legendary Auto Interiors also sells converible tops with glass window. Haven't heard anyone brag about their tops, but everyone seems to like their other products. I have some floor mats on order with them right now as they are having a 15% off sale with free shipping (on most items).
Last edited by stlbluesbrother; October 28th, 2010 at 01:45 PM.
#10
Talk with your upholsterer/convertible top installer first. He may have a brand that he prefers and that will get you the best installation. He may also want to make and install his own top. There are some brands that installers simply will not work with.
Randy C.
Randy C.
#11
Anyone know anything about Aro tops?
Their web site claims they were an OEM manufacturer for GM when our cars were made, and that they work from the original patterns, producing OEM-like tops.
Aside from them, Electron, and Kee seem to be the big suppliers, as far as I can recall.
I don't remember who made the top I put on years ago. It seemed pretty good, but I had nothing to compare it to.
- Eric
Their web site claims they were an OEM manufacturer for GM when our cars were made, and that they work from the original patterns, producing OEM-like tops.
Aside from them, Electron, and Kee seem to be the big suppliers, as far as I can recall.
I don't remember who made the top I put on years ago. It seemed pretty good, but I had nothing to compare it to.
- Eric
#12
Legendary Auto Interiors also sells converible tops with glass window. Haven't heard anyone brag about their tops, but everyone seems to like their other products. I have some floor mats on order with them right now as they are having a 15% off sale with free shipping (on most items).
I have a problem because I have a top in very good condition but a rear window that's falling apart. Not sure what I'm going to do yet....
#13
Legendary Auto Interiors also sells converible tops with glass window. Haven't heard anyone brag about their tops, but everyone seems to like their other products. I have some floor mats on order with them right now as they are having a 15% off sale with free shipping (on most items).
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