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I removed a few trim pieces off my '72 98 while trying to paint some rust spots. Finding the lower'most trim is pretty nice at the forward end and ...pretty foggy at the rear end. I rinsed the entire peice first, then used a Turtle Wax polishing compound which made no difference on the foggy end. Then used that old Nevr-Dull polish which made no difference. I have an electric buffer - just wondering what some folks might recommend as a polishing compound. Thanks.
If using a power buffing wheel, you may want to experiment with pressure against the buffing wheel and different buffing compounds. Otherwise, Simichrome and elbow grease should work well.
I've tried many products. I've remained loyal to only one product the past 35 years when polishing boat, aircraft & vehicle metal - stainless steel, chrome & aluminum.
Stainless. or aluminum? BIG difference! I'm guessing that a 72 probably has anodized aluminum for most trim. In that case, polishing does very little, unless you completely remove the anodizing, then polish it, and then you really need to protect the aluminum surface, with something. Re-anodizing is not an easy thing to do yourself, or even find a local shop to do it. I've cleaned and shot freshly polished aluminum trim with Imron (polyurethane clear), or even modern urethane clear, and it holds up well.
Stainless? sanding with a very fine sandpaper, 600 up to 1500, and then machine buffing, or even vigorous hand buffing will bring it up to like new condition.
Stainless. or aluminum? BIG difference! I'm guessing that a 72 probably has anodized aluminum for most trim. In that case, polishing does very little, unless you completely remove the anodizing, then polish it, and then you really need to protect the aluminum surface, with something. Re-anodizing is not an easy thing to do yourself, or even find a local shop to do it. I've cleaned and shot freshly polished aluminum trim with Imron (polyurethane clear), or even modern urethane clear, and it holds up well.
Stainless? sanding with a very fine sandpaper, 600 up to 1500, and then machine buffing, or even vigorous hand buffing will bring it up to like new condition.
Excellent point. If the metal is anodized Al my recommendation of Collinite 850 would NOT be appropriate.
Thanks again, all. Yea, I beleive this is aluminum - super lightweight. I bought some of the Simichrome and will try even using my buffer. If that don't do it, I'll strap it back on car and call it a day - this ain't no show piece.
Like chopolds said, the aluminum trim was anodized to protect it. Given its age, I would think any amount of time on a buffing wheel will likely destroy the anodizing. You'll probably think you've done a great job because the parent aluminum will look nice and shiny but if you strip the anodizing, it won't stay like that for long.
I believe the same trim on my 71 is aluminum. I tested it with a magnet and it didn't work.
Then again, there's stainless steel that's non-magnetic. Momma hates that kind because it doesn't work on her induction stove.
Generally speaking, 300 series stainless steel is NON magnetic and NOT heat treatable. 400 series Stainless steel IS magnetic and IS heat treatable. It won't have the amount of magnetism you have with mild steel.
Originally Posted by jpilk99
Thanks again, all. Yea, I beleive this is aluminum - super lightweight. I bought some of the Simichrome and will try even using my buffer. If that don't do it, I'll strap it back on car and call it a day - this ain't no show piece.
If its anodized aluminum, its anodized with a hard, shiny coating a few ten-thousanths thick, .(0002-.0004"). Don't use Simichrome or other abrasive polishes.
For those who doubt that this my method doesn't' work. I restored/customized a 1970 Impala convertible for a good friend. He'd owned it, as his first car. The rocker trim was only available for part of the year (wide trim, instead of narrow). SO almost impossible to find. We bought a solution to strip off the anodizing, had a guy weld up a couple un-necessary holes someone drilled into it, and then we polished the hell out of it.
I used House of Kolor Urethane clear on top of it, after careful cleaning. Same clear I used on the car itself (Candy Brandywine) It's been done 20+ years now, and still looks good! Even since it's been outside for the past 4 years.
It's anodized and can't be ...made shiny (un a reasonable sense)
Don't use the simichrome I just bought :-)
It's down low on the car - I'll just clean it as best I can and reinstall. Weird though - the front half is shiny/chrome-looking and the rear is all milky. I'd have thought the other way around, or ALL milkly... Que cera cera I guess. Thanks all.
Yes, the 'milky' part, is the clear anodizing, degrading and ready to flake off...think of how we went through this with the first modern base/clear paint jobs.
Yes, the 'milky' part, is the clear anodizing, degrading and ready to flake off...think of how we went through this with the first modern base/clear paint jobs.
pretty interesting that the inner side of the trim (which isn’t aluminum as I / we thought, magnet sticks right to it) looks fantastic while the outside is …milky, though doesn’t look like it’s gonna flake. I’ve tried a number of polishes - nuthin works. Just gonna clean and reinstall and call it a day 😎.
November 2nd, 2023, 08:02 AM
