Windshield trim fitment issues
#1
Windshield trim fitment issues
I noticed today that I have these gaps between my windshield trim and the windshield on my '72 Supreme. I just had the vinyl tip replaced and I gave the shop (what I thought) were the right clips.
This is the set that I gave them and according to Fusick, these are the correct ones for the windshield. The ones at the bottom of the pic are the ones they used, but I'm wondering if they should have used the other ones.
If the ones they used are correct, then how can I close the gap between the trim and the windshield? Is the problem caused by the vinyl that runs along the a pillar not allowing the clips to slide down far enough to pull the trim closer to the windshield?
This is the set that I gave them and according to Fusick, these are the correct ones for the windshield. The ones at the bottom of the pic are the ones they used, but I'm wondering if they should have used the other ones.
If the ones they used are correct, then how can I close the gap between the trim and the windshield? Is the problem caused by the vinyl that runs along the a pillar not allowing the clips to slide down far enough to pull the trim closer to the windshield?
#2
I'm sure someone with more knowledge of this will chime in, but i had something similar happen on a 79 Chevy van, though the gap was less severe. I had the windshield re- installed because the butyl seal had failed. When they reinstalled it, they used a liquid sealant of some kind and as a result didn't have the height of the butyl strip when installed. The seal was great, and it didn't leak, but there was a gap right where you have a gap. Hopefully this helps!
#3
I'm sure someone with more knowledge of this will chime in, but i had something similar happen on a 79 Chevy van, though the gap was less severe. I had the windshield re- installed because the butyl seal had failed. When they reinstalled it, they used a liquid sealant of some kind and as a result didn't have the height of the butyl strip when installed. The seal was great, and it didn't leak, but there was a gap right where you have a gap. Hopefully this helps!
#4
Can't tell 100% from your pics but it almost looks like the surface of the windshield is also well below the stainless trim that runs across the top of your windshield. If so, then maybe the windshield was replaced at some point using too thin of a urethane bead or too small (OD) of a butyl tape roll.
Also....many replacement windshields, if not all, are thinner than the original windshields.
You mention the vinyl top material and the clips.....is the vinyl UNDER the bottom edge of those trim clips??? If so, then that may have added some height to the trim placement.
Also....many replacement windshields, if not all, are thinner than the original windshields.
You mention the vinyl top material and the clips.....is the vinyl UNDER the bottom edge of those trim clips??? If so, then that may have added some height to the trim placement.
#5
Also - I just checked the "windshield height/depth" on an original '70 car.....original windshield/glass that's never been removed, reset, etc.
The height of the windshield face surface seems to be at least 1/2" above the flat metal surface down in the channel. It seems to be ever-so-slightly taller in certain areas (a 32nd or two taller). I avoided any area that had the original windshield sealant blocking the depth caliper tip from the painted metal channel surface. Not a super scientific measurement but maybe some info to give you something to compare to.
Has your windshield been replaced sometime in the past??? The logo etched into the windshield may hold the clue to that question. Could be a combo of a newer/slightly thinner replacement windshield in the past and too thin of a butyl tape or urethane sealant bead.
What was done on the back glass? (new clips, etc??)
The height of the windshield face surface seems to be at least 1/2" above the flat metal surface down in the channel. It seems to be ever-so-slightly taller in certain areas (a 32nd or two taller). I avoided any area that had the original windshield sealant blocking the depth caliper tip from the painted metal channel surface. Not a super scientific measurement but maybe some info to give you something to compare to.
Has your windshield been replaced sometime in the past??? The logo etched into the windshield may hold the clue to that question. Could be a combo of a newer/slightly thinner replacement windshield in the past and too thin of a butyl tape or urethane sealant bead.
What was done on the back glass? (new clips, etc??)
Last edited by 70Post; February 25th, 2024 at 04:14 PM.
#6
Also - I just checked the "windshield height/depth" on an original '70 car.....original windshield/glass that's never been removed, reset, etc.
The height of the windshield face surface seems to be at least 1/2" above the flat metal surface down in the channel. It seems to be ever-so-slightly taller in certain areas (a 32nd or two taller). I avoided any area that had the original windshield sealant blocking the depth caliper tip from the painted metal channel surface. Not a super scientific measurement but maybe some info to give you something to compare to.
Has your windshield been replaced sometime in the past??? The logo etched into the windshield may hold the clue to that question. Could be a combo of a newer/slightly thinner replacement windshield in the past and too thin of a butyl tape or urethane sealant bead.
What was done on the back glass? (new clips, etc??)
The height of the windshield face surface seems to be at least 1/2" above the flat metal surface down in the channel. It seems to be ever-so-slightly taller in certain areas (a 32nd or two taller). I avoided any area that had the original windshield sealant blocking the depth caliper tip from the painted metal channel surface. Not a super scientific measurement but maybe some info to give you something to compare to.
Has your windshield been replaced sometime in the past??? The logo etched into the windshield may hold the clue to that question. Could be a combo of a newer/slightly thinner replacement windshield in the past and too thin of a butyl tape or urethane sealant bead.
What was done on the back glass? (new clips, etc??)
#7
Can't tell 100% from your pics but it almost looks like the surface of the windshield is also well below the stainless trim that runs across the top of your windshield. If so, then maybe the windshield was replaced at some point using too thin of a urethane bead or too small (OD) of a butyl tape roll.
Also....many replacement windshields, if not all, are thinner than the original windshields.
You mention the vinyl top material and the clips.....is the vinyl UNDER the bottom edge of those trim clips??? If so, then that may have added some height to the trim placement.
Also....many replacement windshields, if not all, are thinner than the original windshields.
You mention the vinyl top material and the clips.....is the vinyl UNDER the bottom edge of those trim clips??? If so, then that may have added some height to the trim placement.
#9
#10
On your next reply you really didn't answer one of my questions which is whether or not the vinyl top material is UNDER the BOTTOM EDGES of the trim clips. I'm not talking about whether the vinyl is BEHIND the clips....but instead asking if it's UNDER the bottom edge of the clips.
Last edited by 70Post; February 25th, 2024 at 07:12 PM.
#11
And the other pic was to show that it looks like the glass is where it should be.
#12
I also asked.....has the windshield ever been replaced? No answer.
In your last reply again, not sure what you're referring to....maybe the open GAP between the edges of the windshield and the surrounding Apillar and roof metal?
If so, that's not what I was talking about when I mentioned the 1/2" HEIGHT that I measured. Seems like you may be referring to the GAP around the windshield....which has ZERO effect on how your stainless fits.
In your last reply again, not sure what you're referring to....maybe the open GAP between the edges of the windshield and the surrounding Apillar and roof metal?
If so, that's not what I was talking about when I mentioned the 1/2" HEIGHT that I measured. Seems like you may be referring to the GAP around the windshield....which has ZERO effect on how your stainless fits.
Last edited by 70Post; February 25th, 2024 at 07:34 PM.
#13
I also asked.....has the windshield ever been replaced? No answer.
In your last reply again, not sure what you're referring to....maybe the open GAP between the edges of the windshield and the surrounding Apillar and roof metal?
If so, that's not what I was talking about when I mentioned the 1/2" HEIGHT that I measured. Seems like you may be referring to the GAP around the windshield....which has ZERO effect on how your stainless fits.
In your last reply again, not sure what you're referring to....maybe the open GAP between the edges of the windshield and the surrounding Apillar and roof metal?
If so, that's not what I was talking about when I mentioned the 1/2" HEIGHT that I measured. Seems like you may be referring to the GAP around the windshield....which has ZERO effect on how your stainless fits.
#16
Is this an OEM windshield or a replacement? The aftermarket windshields are thinner than OEM.
I'm having trouble following the order of replacement here. Factory used urethane sealer/adhesive in a caulking tube. The factory installation process uses spacer blocks on the glass to set the height of the glass and to center it in the opening. If the windshield is to be replaced, there are two ways to do this in the Fisher Body Manual, cutting the existing urethane and using a thinner layer of new on top of that or removing it completely and using the original factory method. Butyl tape is an alternate that was not used by the factory, but I've used it with success. Be aware that butyl tape comes in different diameters, so you have to use the correct thickness. If the shop did use urethane from a tube, did they get the thickness correct when they set the glass? If not, you'll get a gap.
I'm having trouble following the order of replacement here. Factory used urethane sealer/adhesive in a caulking tube. The factory installation process uses spacer blocks on the glass to set the height of the glass and to center it in the opening. If the windshield is to be replaced, there are two ways to do this in the Fisher Body Manual, cutting the existing urethane and using a thinner layer of new on top of that or removing it completely and using the original factory method. Butyl tape is an alternate that was not used by the factory, but I've used it with success. Be aware that butyl tape comes in different diameters, so you have to use the correct thickness. If the shop did use urethane from a tube, did they get the thickness correct when they set the glass? If not, you'll get a gap.
#17
Is this an OEM windshield or a replacement? The aftermarket windshields are thinner than OEM.
I'm having trouble following the order of replacement here. Factory used urethane sealer/adhesive in a caulking tube. The factory installation process uses spacer blocks on the glass to set the height of the glass and to center it in the opening. If the windshield is to be replaced, there are two ways to do this in the Fisher Body Manual, cutting the existing urethane and using a thinner layer of new on top of that or removing it completely and using the original factory method. Butyl tape is an alternate that was not used by the factory, but I've used it with success. Be aware that butyl tape comes in different diameters, so you have to use the correct thickness. If the shop did use urethane from a tube, did they get the thickness correct when they set the glass? If not, you'll get a gap.
I'm having trouble following the order of replacement here. Factory used urethane sealer/adhesive in a caulking tube. The factory installation process uses spacer blocks on the glass to set the height of the glass and to center it in the opening. If the windshield is to be replaced, there are two ways to do this in the Fisher Body Manual, cutting the existing urethane and using a thinner layer of new on top of that or removing it completely and using the original factory method. Butyl tape is an alternate that was not used by the factory, but I've used it with success. Be aware that butyl tape comes in different diameters, so you have to use the correct thickness. If the shop did use urethane from a tube, did they get the thickness correct when they set the glass? If not, you'll get a gap.
Also, I still don't have a definitive answer on what clips are correct.
And finally, is the vinyl supposed to be down inside the "a" pillar channel? I ask because maybe the vinyl isn't allowing the clips to go down far enough to pull the trim closer to the windshield.
#18
I just some "in progress" pictures from the shop when they were doing the work, and it would seem my hunch about the vinyl not allowing the clips to go down far enough for the trim to fit closer to the windshield would be on point.
If you look at this picture, you'll see that before, the vinyl actually went "around" the clips. This would explain why the trim fit better.
If you look at this picture, you'll see that before, the vinyl actually went "around" the clips. This would explain why the trim fit better.
#19
You should be able to remove one of the A-pillar stainless trim pieces and get a better/closeup look at the clips.
See if the "nailhead" studs the clips slip over are fully up in the slot of the clips and/or see if the clips look to be bottomed out on vinyl or body metal. It may take some real closeup inspection and a good light.
Another question I have is how flush the outer edges of the stainless are with the adjacent roof and vinyl-covered A-pillar metal.
Still wondering if the w/shield is original or not.
See if the "nailhead" studs the clips slip over are fully up in the slot of the clips and/or see if the clips look to be bottomed out on vinyl or body metal. It may take some real closeup inspection and a good light.
Another question I have is how flush the outer edges of the stainless are with the adjacent roof and vinyl-covered A-pillar metal.
Still wondering if the w/shield is original or not.
Last edited by 70Post; February 26th, 2024 at 01:18 PM.
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