Goldhawg

My stock frame is not bad (although a bit crusty from the years. At one point, it had some pretty decent rot in one spot on the passenger front that I cut out out and welded a new piece on. I obtained a CA solid frame many years ago from a 68 conv 442 that I've had powdercoated and was going to swap it in for my 71 this summer and put new body bushings, brake lines etc. I know that 68-72 will basically work but there are some slight differences. I'm planning on ordering brake line clips for the 68 frame, but I'm wondering if there are any other potential issues out there in the swap that I'm not thinking of. Anybody have any logic as to why I should stick only to a 71 frame? I don't want to get in the middle of this swap and realize there is something that I should have considered in advance. TIA!

android 211

My '72 442 has a '68 442 convertible frame under it. I believe the brake and fuel lines are shaped a little different and I ordered lines for a '68 convertible not a '72 coupe. Otherwise there was no problems with the installation and everything lined up fine. If you order 'Heavy Duty' frame on a Cutlass or 442 coupe you got the convertible frame anyway. I changed frames because my frame originally had the trailer towing option and I recall the remnants of the trailer hitch had been torched off crudely with stubs still attached to the frame. And it was bent. Easier at that time to just replace.

Goldhawg

Thanks much! Just the feedback I was looking for. I should have noted that mine is a convertible.

joe_padavano

The boxed frames require different fuel lines, brake lines, and transmission crossmember. The body mount locations are the same as on a HT frame.

joe_padavano

I'll add that rust free convertible frames are worth a LOT more than HT frames. You might want to consider selling it, buying a HT frame, and pocketing the difference.

Goldhawg

Here is one of the reasons I'm putting in a replacement frame. I think its a better frame than most (so I think I'll sell it) but since I had the opportunity to get a rust-free frame I think I want the most solid frame possible for the next 50 years.

This is the hole I didn't like

Trying to scope the problem

Got to decently solid (but still thinner on edges)

Welded new in, then ground flush

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