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Hey all, I have a '76 Olds Cutlass Supreme and I recently paid to have the oil pan gasket, engine mounts, centre link bar, spark plugs, distributor cap, wires replaced. Now my oil light comes on when I drive on the highway for a bit and come off the ramp to an idle, the light comes on. If I accelerate it will go away. This was not happening before the oil pan gasket was replaced. I checked the oil level and it is fine. I tried replacing the engine oil pressure switch thinking my current one was faulty but oil light still comes on as described in the scenario previously. The oil light does not come on at any other time. My next step was to do an oil change and see if that makes a difference. I was using 5w 30 oil but the shop that did the oil pan gasket told me they filled it up with 5w-40. Now I know 40 is a thicker oil so this doesn't make a lot of sense either. But shop suggested go back to 30 and see if light still coming on. If it does he said to bring the car back and he would have to put a gauge to it and check the pressure.
Any thoughts? Any thing else I should be checking?
You need a proper mechanical oil pressure gauge put on it to verify. It could be a faulty switch or you are actually losing oil pressure, which is obviously bad
You need a proper mechanical oil pressure gauge put on it to verify. It could be a faulty switch or you are actually losing oil pressure, which is obviously bad
Ok sounds like the best thing to do at this time. Will take it back to shop.
When/if you return it to the shop you could ask them what the oil pressure is under the circumstances you described. This will require them to install an oil pressure gauge to do that. Of course I am not suggesting that is the way to get one on the car as it would be theirs which they are using as a troubleshooting tool but that is what you would have to do yourself anyway. If you want one to keep on the car then you have to decide where you will put it in the passenger compartment, what brand, what kind, etc. If they discover that the oil pressure is actually dropping under those circumstances you described then they will have to offer an explanation as to why it is so.
When/if you return it to the shop you could ask them what the oil pressure is under the circumstances you described. This will require them to install an oil pressure gauge to do that. Of course I am not suggesting that is the way to get one on the car as it would be theirs which they are using as a troubleshooting tool but that is what you would have to do yourself anyway. If you want one to keep on the car then you have to decide where you will put it in the passenger compartment, what brand, what kind, etc. If they discover that the oil pressure is actually dropping under those circumstances you described then they will have to offer an explanation as to why it is so.
Ok cool. I will hold off on the oil change and just take to shop and have them access pressure.
Update: Did an oil change using Lucas Oil 10/W30 and same issue persists (i.e. engine light coming on). Now there is a very loud and clear knock coming from engine which might explain why light is coming on. Going to tow it to the shop that did the oil pan gasket replacement to investigate the knock. The engine light coming on all started after the replacement, not sure if it is a big coincidence. Regardless towing the car over to them this week and will take it from there. Need them to put a gauge on it ....fyi Car has 107,000 miles and I'm fearing the worst.
Many of these Olds V8 went 3 times that mileage when these were on the road in great numbers. Our family owned two, 81 Delta 88 went 450,000 km, our 75 over 300,000 miles. I saw many in a shop setting as an apprentice, including Reservation cars, which saw almost no oil changes and still went way more than this. The one Achilles Heel was the nylon timing set. That is actually low mileage for a 45 year old car. Sitting is just as bad or worse than driving a pile of miles with proper maintenance. It is probably a failed nylon coated cam sprocket, quite common.
Many of these Olds V8 went 3 times that mileage when these were on the road in great numbers. Our family owned two, 81 Delta 88 went 450,000 km, our 75 over 300,000 miles. I saw many in a shop setting as an apprentice, including Reservation cars, which saw almost no oil changes and still went way more than this. The one Achilles Heel was the nylon timing set. That is actually low mileage for a 45 year old car. Sitting is just as bad or worse than driving a pile of miles with proper maintenance. It is probably a failed nylon coated cam sprocket, quite common.
I will definitely mention the nylon timing set to the shop. I picked my car up from Arizona last Spring and the are probably sat in a garage for many years before they (original owner) decided to sell. Yea I am realizing gaskets and stuff dry up and become brittle from sitting.
So bad news from the auto shop they found metal shavings in my oil, and the mechanical gauge was fluctuating 25-35 psi. They recommended taking it to machine shop and do a rebuild and high end probably cost CAD 6-7k, which is lotta money. What are my options here to get it running again? Should I do the rebuild? Should I swap it out with used engine but then how do I know I won't be in the same place down the line with use engine? Even with this option I probably going to cost at least CAD 2k. I don't even know a good machine shop in Toronto, Ontario or even few hundred kms away.
Hopefully Dave or Dale chimes in, they live reasonably close by. For a basically stock motor, that sounds right on cost. The problem is, cast replacement pistons will drop the already low compression down to about 7 to 1. The Mahle or DSS forged pistons will give stockish mid 8 to 1 compression. Are those oil pressure numbers at hot idle or cruise? What weight oil is in the car?
What is the overall condition of the car? What are your goals with the car?
As far as rebuilding it yourself, what is the extent of your mechanical experience?
Good luck!!!
Overall condition is great especially body and frame....picked it up in Arizona last year. My goal is to cruise during the summer/fall months as my everyday car and really would like to keep driving it for at least another few summers. Open to keeping it longer term ..not in a rush to sell. I have ZERO mechanical experience lol I bought this car for sentimental reasons.
Hopefully Dave or Dale chimes in, they live reasonably close by. For a basically stock motor, that sounds right on cost. The problem is, cast replacement pistons will drop the already low compression down to about 7 to 1. The Mahle or DSS forged pistons will give stockish mid 8 to 1 compression. Are those oil pressure numbers at hot idle or cruise? What weight oil is in the car?
hmm...the car was towed to shop and they did not take it for a spin so not cruise. Just changed oil and filter a week ago with Lucas Oil 10W-30.
I found this vid on you tube, they say this guy did a re ring and not rebuild. Couldn't I do a re ring without having to go to machine shop? How does one know
It all depends on where those metal shavings that were found in the oil came from. Metal shavings suggests galling so it could be main bearings, rod bearings, or maybe worn rings. Running a cylinder compression check and then re-doing it with the cylinders lubed up good with some oil could probably rule in or out the worn rings but you really would have to tear into the engine to find out if the bearings are bad. I really don't think worn rings would cause low oil pressure, they might cause smoke out the tailpipe when you stomp on it.
Can be practically guaranteed the metal shavings are from the crankshaft rods/mains. If you are considering replacing only the crank and bearings do a compression test first AND post pictures of the spark plugs kept in order for us to look at it, they provide information.
It's a ton of work and cleaning to replace a crank and find out later there is a compression problem.
IMO, a complete disassembly, thorough cleaning, inspection, new rings, bearings, crank repaired, chain and gears at a minimum is the way to go.
[QUOTE=Sugar Bear;1453441]Can be practically guaranteed the metal shavings are from the crankshaft rods/mains. If you are considering replacing only the crank and bearings do a compression test first AND post pictures of the spark plugs kept in order for us to look at it, they provide information.
It's a ton of work and cleaning to replace a crank and find out later there is a compression problem.
IMO, a complete disassembly, thorough cleaning, inspection, new rings, bearings, crank repaired, chain and gears at a minimum is the way to go.
Again, start with a compression test.
Ok coolio. I will chat with the shop about compression test. I called a few machine shops and they all pretty busy and probably can't take on my rebuild for another month. So if I start the process now I won't get my rebuilt engine back and install in the car until earliest mid November. That doesn't give me much time to break in the engine with winter around the corner. I don't drive my car in the winter to avoid salt and rusting, so I am thinking if I should do nothing until next Spring? Tow the car back to my place and just park it up until next Spring. this way even if I get the car running by summer I have time to break it in and enjoy it! Thoughts?
Last edited by Kramer; September 19th, 2022 at 08:47 AM.
Get the compression test done. Get the rebuild done over the Winter. If you wait till Spring, you may be lucky to have it done before next Summer is done. Machine shops have been ridiculously backed up. A month may be generous, I wax told that, still waiting, going on two months.
Get the compression test done. Get the rebuild done over the Winter. If you wait till Spring, you may be lucky to have it done before next Summer is done. Machine shops have been ridiculously backed up. A month may be generous, I wax told that, still waiting, going on two months.
Yea you are right, that is definitely the impression I am getting after speaking with a few machine shops.
Yeah, I waited a year and the first machine shop screwed some stuff up and didn't do some of the work I asked. I would contact CANADIANOLDS for a machine shop recommendation in your area.
Yeah, I waited a year and the first machine shop screwed some stuff up and didn't do some of the work I asked. I would contact CANADIANOLDS for a machine shop recommendation in your area.
UPDATE: After parking up the car for the winter, engine is finally at Machine Shop (Beatty & Woods Performance), and they have confirmed i have a spun rod bearing. He mentioned my engine has never been rebuilt from what he can tell. Here is the build list he has provided me today, any thoughts/comments would be appreciated before i give him the go ahead. I looking to build back to stock for summer cruising if that helps....
1968-1976 Olds 350 crankshaft core org. GM
Felpro gasket set complete- with upgraded oil pan gasket
L2321F+030 Sealed power pistons with 9:1 compression ratio
2M697+030 Hastings chrome moly piston rings
MTO-1 melling cam/lifter kit high torque camshaft upgrade for increased low end power M22F melling oil pump and oil screen
O-6 Durabond cam bearing set
MS805 crankshaft main bearing set
CB684 crankshaft rod bearing set
3-498SC Melling all steel timing chain and gear set
I think you could get a better camshaft for your application. In high school I had a cam with 204* duration @ .050" lift and its advertised duration was 262*. My current cam with 217* @ .050" lift has 272* advertised duration.
Is this shop familiar with Olds engines? I would ask them about galley plug locations and which ones have orifices? If they know it great, if not I'd think twice about using them.
Is this shop familiar with Olds engines? I would ask them about galley plug locations and which ones have orifices? If they know it great, if not I'd think twice about using them.
I will ask him. This shop was recommended by CANADIANOLDS as he's got a year wait list. He said he sends his cams for work there and place he trust.
I think you could get a better camshaft for your application. In high school I had a cam with 204* duration @ .050" lift and its advertised duration was 262*. My current cam with 217* @ .050" lift has 272* advertised duration.
Ok will talk to machine shop about options. In other posts I see some folks recommend following cams; Comp cam xe256h212/218, ADV. 256/268, rmp 1000-5200, Valve lift 0,453/0, 456, LS 110
Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit - Oldsmobile V8 256/262
UPDATE: After parking up the car for the winter, engine is finally at Machine Shop (Beatty & Woods Performance), and they have confirmed i have a spun rod bearing. He mentioned my engine has never been rebuilt from what he can tell. Here is the build list he has provided me today, any thoughts/comments would be appreciated before i give him the go ahead. I looking to build back to stock for summer cruising if that helps....
1968-1976 Olds 350 crankshaft core org. GM
Felpro gasket set complete- with upgraded oil pan gasket
L2321F+030 Sealed power pistons with 9:1 compression ratio (affordable option but much better options out there for marginally more)
2M697+030 Hastings chrome moly piston rings
MTO-1 melling cam/lifter kit high torque camshaft upgrade for increased low end power(again, much MUCH better options available. It's an RV Cam)
M22F melling oil pump and oil screen (Purple spring or shim the green one .125")
O-6 Durabond cam bearing set
MS805 crankshaft main bearing set
CB684 crankshaft rod bearing set
3-498SC Melling all steel timing chain and gear set
MPR307 Melling pushrods (Maybe suggest oil restricted, $100 more but keeps oil in the bottom end where it needs to be)
VO969 Melling intake valve (If you're replacing valves and getting a valve job. Get bigger valves. V1457 1.994)
VO970 Melling exhaust valve (V0974, 1.624)
VS720 Melling valve springs (Factory replacement stuff but if you're going with a bigger cam, just grab an aftermarket spring. Engine Pro sells one for less than $100)
MR540-1 Melling rocker arm and bridge kit (Got it, not a race car, but these are almost $20 each from Rockauto and at $160 for factory rocker arms, a Ford pedestal mount roller rocker will fit in the same space, same geometry. Of course a little more expensive with Proform)
Shop guy said that going with the proform roller rockers will create more machine work ($$) to fit my cylinder head. Same with larger intake value. However he did suggest if i had budget to upgrade intake manifold to edelbrock #2711 for better performance.
Upgrade to the 7111, if you are going to buy an expensive aftermarket intake manifold. For decent compression on a #8 head motor the flat top Speedpro pistons are best to gain compression.
Upgrade to the 7111, if you are going to buy an expensive aftermarket intake manifold. For decent compression on a #8 head motor the flat top Speedpro pistons are best to gain compression.
Ok thanks. For now I keeping to the build list machine shop provided and if build is comes under budget then I will consider intake manifold. Hoping I can get the engine back in couple of weeks.
Get the flat top pistons, L2320F +.030 Sealed Power/SpeedPro for a bump up in compression, purple spring in the M22F oil pump for better oil pressure. I would also recommend replacing the oil pan with one from a 455 Olds.
Get the flat top pistons, L2320F +.030 Sealed Power/SpeedPro for a bump up in compression, purple spring in the M22F oil pump for better oil pressure. I would also recommend replacing the oil pan with one from a 455 Olds.
August 24th, 2022, 09:02 PM
