VI Cutty

What are the advantages of going with tubular control arms versus originals?

My car's a 1970 Cutlass getting a 455 with 5 speed. Won't see the track but definitely some spirited driving. Not a lot of long straight aways so plenty of curves, turns, hills and so on. I'm replacing the balljoints and all the bushings regardless so my question is whether I would experience enough benefit from tubulars to justify the additional expense.

Olds64

You're going to get more benefit from replacing the ball joints and control arm bushings vs. going to aftermarket tubular control arms. Don't forget to replace the sway bar bushings and all of the steering components at the same time (inner/outer tie rods and idler arm).

Rallye469

It really depends on what kind.
There's so cheapies out there that probably don't do a damn thing.
Then there are some where you can control everything and correct and factory issues...but they cost some serious coin and aren't really intended for street abuse.
I'd say rebuild what you have if you're not heading to the track honestly.

oldcutlass

The only real benefit is you can get more positive caster than stock. The down side is if you buy the cheap Chinese ones, are poor welds and ball joints.

bccan

I have Global West front uppers & lowers + rear lowers, I have always liked them but ”**** mi!” I just looked them up and the price is paralyzing! The del-a-lum bushings are excellent. My stuff is 20 years old and no wear or slop, never any noise or vibration, just smoooth articulation.

I know there are other brands that are definitely worth looking at, or, you could buy bushing kits to use in your existing control arms, though the arms are probably not nearly as structurally rigid, it probably isn’t a big deal for most driving. If lower arms have an oval bushing, GW used to be able to mod them, if 2 round bushings, kit is available for self installation. Gusseting/plating the lowers might be worth a few hours if you are capable of doing it.

Big front sway bar, rear sway bar to taste. I use a stock rear bar as I prefer understeer, big rear bar leans to oversteer, which some others prefer. Within reason, as much caster in front as can be dialed in., 5-7+*

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joe_padavano

^^^THIS!!! As noted, other than the advantage of additional caster (IF the arms you buy have that), most folks here who switch to tubular arms are doing it for looks. The reality is that if all you do is drive the car to cruise night and back, you'll never notice any difference. I'll also note that I like big rear (bars, that is), since the A-body is an understeering pig in even the best stock form. Increasing the size of the front bar just makes this worse. Now, if you are using SHORTENED upper arms so that you can run tall spindles or ball joints to correct the crappy camber curve, that is a different story.

VI Cutty

Sound advice, thanks! I can't justify the cost of a product that will provide decent performance so I'll be replacing all the bushings with rubber and keeping my stock control arms. Will likely stick with the stock sway bar for now but may change my springs.

bccan

Buy only premium bushings, be sure to tighten (torque) them with weight on suspension. IMO a quicker ratio steering box and big front sway bar would be the next improvements to make after the “foundation” is updated. The good news is that they are not overly expensive and provide real improvements to the way the car drives. As said before, rear bar to taste. Really, any modifications are always “to taste.”

One other thing just came to mind. I think the rear frame braces make a noticeable improvement in ride and chassis integrity, a sensible “might as well” when you’re doing bushings and only a moderate expense, especially for used OE.

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VI Cutty

What do you consider premium bushings? I was planning on Moog rubber as much as possible.

I definitely need to give the quick ratio box some thought. Now's the time to make the switch, while everything is already apart. Are these the type of rear frame braces you're talking about?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GLS-TS-82

bccan

I would consider Moog to be a premium product. NAPA has a premium line that I have used numerous times. There are one or two other brands that I’m spacing on but you’re on the right track.

I have those GW braces on my car but used OE’s on numerous others. They are available for about half of that price, used. As a matter of fact, here’s new repops on special-

https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/DZ-4500.html

The OE style MIGHT provide a pinky’s worth of additional muffler clearance vs the tubular style, fwiw.

Check out last post in this thread and check classifieds on this sight.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...braces-169356/

​​This thread has had me looking up parts and I’m appalled at the prices! I haven’t done any projects for a while.

Some other relevant discussion-

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ay-bar-164921/

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