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This was a discussion on Facebook, but just in case there's a unique set of opinions on this group. I was planning on just pulling off the trailing arms, blasting them and painting, but the bushings do look a little rough. I don't have a press but I say that a lot of people are able to get these out using basic tools. I would likely want to replace them with rubber. I've been looking at aftermarket options and want to see what I can do with these first. Any advice on do-it-yourself bushing replacement. What do you think from looking at the pictures?
I believe my ‘66 big cars both have Hotchkiss trailing arms intended for a ‘66 Cutlass/442. Look around under my username for details.
You might want to check with the classic car boneyards in the search for replacement arms, those look a little rusty to me, but as a Californian my rust knowledge is not strong at all.
If you’re going to drive the car, put in fresh bushings all around. If you don’t the car is very likely to groan and clunk as worn parts are still trying to work.
I believe my ‘66 big cars both have Hotchkiss trailing arms intended for a ‘66 Cutlass/442. Look around under my username for details.
You might want to check with the classic car boneyards in the search for replacement arms, those look a little rusty to me, but as a Californian my rust knowledge is not strong at all.
If you’re going to drive the car, put in fresh bushings all around. If you don’t the car is very likely to groan and clunk as worn parts are still trying to work.
Cheers
Chris
Correct, which I what I told him on FB. The 1965-70 full size cars use the same rear LCAs as do the 1964-67 A-body cars.
Grab a set of LCAs as discussed (above). The bushings will most likely need to be replaced in the ones you find. It's a 30' job to remove & replace the bushings ($40-$50) + parts.
When I rebuilt the suspension on my '71 CS convertible I installed boxed control arms, rear anti-sway bar, & new front anti-sway bar bushings in the front. Handling was sooooooooooooooo sweet.
If your uppers are pitted like the lowers I have a 1968 Delmont rear end with clean control arms still attached. If you wanted to get some that are not rusty I'd be willing to pull and sell you these.
John
I believe my ‘66 big cars both have Hotchkiss trailing arms intended for a ‘66 Cutlass/442. Look around under my username for details.
You might want to check with the classic car boneyards in the search for replacement arms, those look a little rusty to me, but as a Californian my rust knowledge is not strong at all.
If you’re going to drive the car, put in fresh bushings all around. If you don’t the car is very likely to groan and clunk as worn parts are still trying to work.
Cheers
Chris
These are rusty enough that they will likely be a bit thinner after I sandblast them. My guess is weaker than the day they were made. I am still a bit undecided how I want to go and part of this is bushing replacement. I find youtube videos where guys swap the bushings out using basic shop tools, then someone comes along and says that the only way to do it correctly, is to use a press.
If your uppers are pitted like the lowers I have a 1968 Delmont rear end with clean control arms still attached. If you wanted to get some that are not rusty I'd be willing to pull and sell you these.
John
Not sure I follow you. Your uppers are clean and for sale and the lowers are pitted? Maybe message me details. Thanks,
These are rusty enough that they will likely be a bit thinner after I sandblast them. My guess is weaker than the day they were made. I am still a bit undecided how I want to go and part of this is bushing replacement. I find youtube videos where guys swap the bushings out using basic shop tools, then someone comes along and says that the only way to do it correctly, is to use a press.
I have a hand press - not a hydraulic press, there's a difference. The hand press uses a quite large C-Clamp. I have various sizes of hollow cylinders I've collected over the years. Using an appropriately sized hollow cylinder on at least the end where the bushing is going to exit the control arm (the other end you can use nearly any piece of metal which will strike the one end of the bushing, you then rotate by hand (or wrench) the C-Clamp and out pops the bushing and sleeve. Really easy. I suggest if you elect to do this yourself, you insert a piece of sturdy metal (a wrenching socket works well) in between the two sleeves of the control arm to prevent the metal sleeves from collapsing. It's really a simple process - much easier if you already have the hand-held bushing press which comes w/ a large C-Clamp.
My press is nearly identical to this press. I can't recall the name of manufacture of mine. There are less expensive units and honestly you can make your own from various types of metal and hollow metal cylinders (which I used from many, many years). You can even buy a big C-Clamp and you're done, you just made your own handheld press. If you plan to press other "objects" not necessarily control arms since a device of this type works on a plethora of other equipment, devices & the like - it's well worth the investment.
Insert a sturdy piece of metal which will not collapse (a wrenching socket works well) to keep the control arm sleeves from collapsing as you press out each bushing & sleeve....
I find youtube videos where guys swap the bushings out using basic shop tools, then someone comes along and says that the only way to do it correctly, is to use a press.
Old school (maybe) or the rough & tough way (maybe) is to use a propane torch and ignite the inner rubber and burn it out until it's completely gone then beat the sleeve out of the control arm. Honestly, to do it right, use a press.
I have a hand press - not a hydraulic press, there's a difference. The hand press uses a quite large C-Clamp. I have various sizes of hollow cylinders I've collected over the years. Using an appropriately sized hollow cylinder on at least the end where the bushing is going to exit the control arm (the other end you can use nearly any piece of metal which will strike the one end of the bushing, you then rotate by hand (or wrench) the C-Clamp and out pops the bushing and sleeve. Really easy. I suggest if you elect to do this yourself, you insert a piece of sturdy metal (a wrenching socket works well) in between the two sleeves of the control arm to prevent the metal sleeves from collapsing. It's really a simple process - much easier if you already have the hand-held bushing press which comes w/ a large C-Clamp.
I have seen where people take a 2"+ pipe, cut it the length of the space between the sleeves, and then split it to keep them from pressing in. I know people hammer the bushings in with a socket, but it doesn't seem to be without risk.
I have seen where people take a 2"+ pipe, cut it the length of the space between the sleeves, and then split it to keep them from pressing in. I know people hammer the bushings in with a socket, but it doesn't seem to be without risk.
It DOES accompany risk. You've got the idea, decide for yourself it's your car.
I’m not a total stickler, but when dealing with tires, wheels and suspensions, I generally go to professionals. I’m comfortable with carbs, electrical, just not suspension.
That may change as the guys who grew up with these cars age out, but for now, I’d much rather have bushings pressed professionally in - flat, not cocked - as opposed to just torching out the old ones and banging in the new ones. Hammer blows on fresh bushings have a slim chance of pressing bushings in flat. My belief anyway, others may differ.
If you get new parts, you have new parts aka 1 less thing to worry about. Whatever you re-use - like spindles and the A-Arms themselves, consider having them magnaflux checked for cracks by your shop. I may be too conservative, but that’s my $.02.
Hearty recommendation to go formal and professional with tires, brakes and suspensions. I’d do it all in 1 go to get the best deal as a package.
When you’re driving at 35, 55 or 70 mph, you want to have confidence in your suspension, tires and brakes.
That's good advice for anyone who feels uncomfortable/uneasy/unfamiliar &/or believes for any reason whatsoever a job should be left to a professional. Everyone has to build their own level of confidence with any task they choose to undertake. You sound like someone who wants to learn along the way. It's like swimming, right? You have to jump in if you want to learn.
I’m not a total stickler, but when dealing with tires, wheels and suspensions, I generally go to professionals. I’m comfortable with carbs, electrical, just not suspension.
That may change as the guys who grew up with these cars age out, but for now, I’d much rather have bushings pressed professionally in - flat, not cocked - as opposed to just torching out the old ones and banging in the new ones. Hammer blows on fresh bushings have a slim chance of pressing bushings in flat. My belief anyway, others may differ.
If you get new parts, you have new parts aka 1 less thing to worry about. Whatever you re-use - like spindles and the A-Arms themselves, consider having them magnaflux checked for cracks by your shop. I may be too conservative, but that’s my $.02.
Hearty recommendation to go formal and professional with tires, brakes and suspensions. I’d do it all in 1 go to get the best deal as a package.
When you’re driving at 35, 55 or 70 mph, you want to have confidence in your suspension, tires and brakes.
Chris
Point taken, but at the end of the day it is a piece of metal and a bushing. Gotta learn sometime. I think I'm going to try to rig something up with some threaded rod, pipes or sockets, and washers. It might be fun to play around with this stuff. Worst case scenario I screw them up, I just order a new trailing arm
If good used arms are available at a fair price, consider getting them and practicing a bushing/removal install on the rusty ones.
IMHO, in response to the question in post #1 "What do you think from looking at the pictures?", it would be better if they were replaced, they are going to flex enough. The factory used them in new stronger condition and felt an upgrade to boxed arms was even better. Due to rust these have gone the opposite direction from the boxed upgrade.
If you plan to press other "objects" not necessarily control arms since a device of this type works on a plethora of other equipment, devices & the like - it's well worth the investment.
The OP's arms look pretty scaly. I personally would at least replace them with stock arms in better shape. I've routinely replaced bushings with nothing more than a torch, a bench vise, and some sections of pipe or sockets with the right diameter. There is almost no chance that you'll get those old bushings out with a press or tool. I just burn out the rubber, compress the remaining shell with a hammer and punch, and the shell falls out. This is a smelly, smoky mess, so do it over a metal container. I've even done this with a propane torch before I got me ox-acetelyne system. Clean up the bores before installing the new bushings. Wipe some wheel bearing grease onto the mating surfaces before installing the new bushings. Cut a length of angle iron or eve wood to hold the sides of the control arms apart when installing the new bushings. Use a pipe or socket that ONLY presses on the outer flange of the new bushings, not the rubber. I've installed the new bushings with a large bench vice and also a three pound sledge hammer. And yes, the bushings all press in from the same side of the arms. These are not RH/LH. Both sides are the same.
I did want to keep the vehicle as original as possible, but at some point, you have to decide if it is worth it. There are several aftermarket arms that look pretty good and likely function better than OEM. It would be a learning experience and satisfying to remove the bushings, blast, paint, and install new rubber bushings, but with that time involved I could get all new and functionally stronger arms. I guess that is a dilemma that others have faced as well. When to fight for originality. I like the looks of the hotchkis arms.
I realize I'm a little late to this party, but everyone is worried about how to replace bushings without looking closely at the pics. It looks like both sets of control arms need replacing. The short ones have been almost worn through. You need to have the groves welded in or get new ones. Better yet, get a whole new set of uppers and lowers with the bushings already installed. You will need to replace the bushings in the differential housing too and from what I have read, those are the ones that are a beast to replace.
October 8th, 2023, 09:16 AM
