Safely remove control arms?
#1
Safely remove control arms?
So, the front struts in my 96 98 are quite worn. When I replaced the rack & pinion and bled the PS system I found that the upper strut mounts were completely deteriorated. I figure I can install quick struts up front and replace the control arm bushings and ball joints. The control arms come with bushings pre-installed and the ball joints bolt to the control arm (the OE ones were riveted to the control arm).
Since I'm already doing so many MAWs I thought I would replace the rear control arm bushings and ball joints. I need new tires before too long and the car needs to be aligned. Heck, I should have had the car aligned after replacing the rack & pinion, but...
Here is a schematic of the rear suspension:
I figured I could go to the salvage yard and take the rear control arms off of a parts car then have the control arm bushings and ball joints replaced by a shop. Both the control arm bushings and ball joints in the back are pressed in.
The question I have is how do I safely remove the control arms in the salvage yard? The cars are up on 4 mounts so the rear suspension should be completely hanging. The service manual calls for using a special tool under the control arm (of course I don't have it). In the past I used a hydraulic floor jack under the ball joint and lowered the control arm after disconnecting the spindle but the salvage yard says "no floor jacks allowed!" Am I going to have to use side mount spring compressors? A friend of mine lost a finger to those before. Has anyone used a chain when compressing springs before?
Thanks for any tips and advice.
Since I'm already doing so many MAWs I thought I would replace the rear control arm bushings and ball joints. I need new tires before too long and the car needs to be aligned. Heck, I should have had the car aligned after replacing the rack & pinion, but...
Here is a schematic of the rear suspension:
I figured I could go to the salvage yard and take the rear control arms off of a parts car then have the control arm bushings and ball joints replaced by a shop. Both the control arm bushings and ball joints in the back are pressed in.
The question I have is how do I safely remove the control arms in the salvage yard? The cars are up on 4 mounts so the rear suspension should be completely hanging. The service manual calls for using a special tool under the control arm (of course I don't have it). In the past I used a hydraulic floor jack under the ball joint and lowered the control arm after disconnecting the spindle but the salvage yard says "no floor jacks allowed!" Am I going to have to use side mount spring compressors? A friend of mine lost a finger to those before. Has anyone used a chain when compressing springs before?
Thanks for any tips and advice.
#3
You could disconnect the sway bar links. Then remove the upper strut mount nuts from inside the car with an electric impact if there is room. At least you will be inside when the fun happens. Lol
other wise asking the yard if they can cut the springs is the best option.
other wise asking the yard if they can cut the springs is the best option.
#5
So, I went to the salvage yard this morning and attempted to remove the driver's side rear control arm. The spring compressor I rented was too big and the yard didn't even have an acetylene torch they could cut the springs with.
I did get so far as to remove the spring by disassembling the strut from the spindle. There wasn't much tension on the spring since the suspension was hanging. Unfortunately, the gas tank has to come out to remove the front control arm bolt. I didn't have a hammer with me. Maybe tomorrow I will return with a BFH and dent the fuel tank to remove that bolt, it only needs 1/2 an inch of clearance.
I wanted the grill from the 96 98 but it was broken. All I got was a lower dash panel with a trunk/fuel door switch and traction control switch. I already had a spare but it was less than $8.
There was an 82 Delta 88. It has the 307 sans carburetor if anyone is interested. I had to include that Lincoln Mark IV in the pic. They sure knew how to make them years ago...
I did get so far as to remove the spring by disassembling the strut from the spindle. There wasn't much tension on the spring since the suspension was hanging. Unfortunately, the gas tank has to come out to remove the front control arm bolt. I didn't have a hammer with me. Maybe tomorrow I will return with a BFH and dent the fuel tank to remove that bolt, it only needs 1/2 an inch of clearance.
I wanted the grill from the 96 98 but it was broken. All I got was a lower dash panel with a trunk/fuel door switch and traction control switch. I already had a spare but it was less than $8.
There was an 82 Delta 88. It has the 307 sans carburetor if anyone is interested. I had to include that Lincoln Mark IV in the pic. They sure knew how to make them years ago...
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