Southside Machine Lift Bars
February 5th, 2012, 02:49 PM
#1
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Southside Machine Lift Bars
I am building a 1964 Cutlass, with a 1967 Toro 425. A buddy of mine gave me a set of what he calls "lift bars" which are marked with a decal from Southside Machine Company. The bars, he thinks, are 1970 vintage. Have any of you guys used these? Do they require different upper control arms? Anybody have instructions on how they are installed? Thanks very much for your help, John
February 5th, 2012, 03:32 PM
#3
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yes I have used them and yes the use the original upper control arms. what they do is raise the angle of the upper arms which helps to plant the rear with out going into wheel hop. I had them on a 72 4 speed elcamino I had years ago. with the stick it would start to hop when it launched. the southside bars fixed it.
February 5th, 2012, 04:15 PM
#4
I have read again read that they are a little weird to drive on the street
from what I remember thy would lift the inside tire or something to that sort and not recommended for a street car more for drag??? UMI is doing the same thing with their lifter bars . what was your opinion for them?
from what I remember thy would lift the inside tire or something to that sort and not recommended for a street car more for drag??? UMI is doing the same thing with their lifter bars . what was your opinion for them?
February 5th, 2012, 04:24 PM
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they didnt bother me but I was not autocrossing it. it was a street beater and I rode it pretty hard but being an elcamino it was light in the rear so you couldnt but it thru the corners fast anyway.
February 5th, 2012, 09:43 PM
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I have them on my car now. I bought them before SSM closed their doors. They are fine for the street and are great at the track. They install in the stock location on the top and then you drill the bottom brackets on the rear end to set the pinion angle at whatever you want. They aren't adjustable so get it right the first time. They are boxed as well so you can mount a rear sway bar to them. My car rides better on the street than stock suspension Cutlass', in my opinion. If you need more info I can take pictures and show you how they should be mounted.
Steve
Steve
February 6th, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Steve, I would very much like to see pictures of your installation. I have no instructions and was told that some drilling was required. Do you still have your instructions; if so, maybe I can get you to fax me a copy. Thanks, John
February 6th, 2012, 05:17 PM
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After looking through all of my old stuff I am sad to say that I don't have the instructions. Which is odd because I keep everything. But I did take some pictures of them so you have an idea of what they are supposed to look like. I don't remember the exact pinion angle, I wanna say 7.5 degrees but don't count on that. Brian or 380 may be able to help you on that.
You do have to drill...
Of the three bolts in these last two pictures you can see the rear most hole is the one you have to drill. I believe it is a 1/2" hole. The location of this hole sets the pinion angle so you want to make sure you drill it in the right place. The top hole is the factory hole where the stock control arms bolt in. The bottom hole is for the relocation bracket provided with the bars.
Instructions from what I can remember:
*Install 1 SSM drag bar at a time.
1. Install the front of drag bar in the stock location, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
2. In the top-forward hole, install the large rear bracket, spacer, small oval bracket, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
3. In the lower hole, install the rear of drag bar, oval bracket, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
**Once BOTH SSM drag bars are installed**
4. Using floor jack under the front of rear end housing (pinion), set the angle desired.
5. Mark rear holes and drill 1/2" hole in stock control arm bracket. - Do not drill larger hole than is required, this hole sets PINION ANGLE!
6. Install rear bolt, lock-washer, and nut - tighten.
7. Tighten all other bolts / nuts
8. Grease fittings
And guys, if I missed anything please add to it...it's hard to remember everything.
You do have to drill...
Of the three bolts in these last two pictures you can see the rear most hole is the one you have to drill. I believe it is a 1/2" hole. The location of this hole sets the pinion angle so you want to make sure you drill it in the right place. The top hole is the factory hole where the stock control arms bolt in. The bottom hole is for the relocation bracket provided with the bars.
Instructions from what I can remember:
*Install 1 SSM drag bar at a time.
1. Install the front of drag bar in the stock location, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
2. In the top-forward hole, install the large rear bracket, spacer, small oval bracket, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
3. In the lower hole, install the rear of drag bar, oval bracket, then install bolt, lock washer, and nut - snug, do not tighten.
**Once BOTH SSM drag bars are installed**
4. Using floor jack under the front of rear end housing (pinion), set the angle desired.
5. Mark rear holes and drill 1/2" hole in stock control arm bracket. - Do not drill larger hole than is required, this hole sets PINION ANGLE!
6. Install rear bolt, lock-washer, and nut - tighten.
7. Tighten all other bolts / nuts
8. Grease fittings
And guys, if I missed anything please add to it...it's hard to remember everything.
Last edited by ah64pilot; February 6th, 2012 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Added text
February 7th, 2012, 05:37 AM
#9
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I have installed these on a few of my cars as well.Lakewood bought SSM,and they make their version of these now.They are fine on the street.They do not raise or alter the upper control arm position or angle.The SSM kit changes the pivot points of the lower control arm,and brings the imaginary intersection point of the lower control arm,with the upper control arm towards the rear of the car.This is also called the instant center.By moving it back,it puts more force on the rear tires.The body itself will lift,while pushing the rear down,thus planting the tires better.
For those of you still trying to squat the whole back of the car,don't.This is the 21st century.You don't get the same effect from that,plus it is a slower effect,and your 60fts will show that.
For those of you still trying to squat the whole back of the car,don't.This is the 21st century.You don't get the same effect from that,plus it is a slower effect,and your 60fts will show that.
February 7th, 2012, 09:22 AM
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February 7th, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Compared to stock parts,they are better.
The Moroso trick springs for the front are good,but the rear squat springs are not,especially with something like the lift bars,as you would have two things that are trying to do the opposite.
The no-hop bars are the same concept as the lift bars,except they change the upper control arm location,to improve the instant center.
The Moroso trick springs for the front are good,but the rear squat springs are not,especially with something like the lift bars,as you would have two things that are trying to do the opposite.
The no-hop bars are the same concept as the lift bars,except they change the upper control arm location,to improve the instant center.
February 8th, 2012, 05:09 AM
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Good thing you asked FireFrost.It IS a good question.I never had ANY issues with my Southsides,and the rest of my suspension,while running BFG drag radials.My 60's were constantly at 1:48,as long as I wasn't sleeping.I then ordered a Moser 12-bolt housing,and built a rear with that,to try under the 72.the Moser 12-bolt,just like their 9" housing,has the raised ears,giving you the same effect as the NO-hops.The Moser housings also move the shock mounts directly behind the lower control arm,making the shock more vertical,which also helps launching,but still have some angle,for street handling.I swapped the 8.5" 10-bolt,with the SSM's,for the Moser 12-bolt,and made NO other changes.The 60fts were now 1:43,with the same BFG drag radials.It's hard to say if the raised ears are truly better because the shock angle was also improved.The Moser rear was heavier by about 25lbs,if anyone is curious.
Have fun with it!
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