Chuxter

I have a 1970 Cutlass Supreme that I have completely rebuilt the front end on. Including a new power steering pump. The car turns super easy but it does not return back to center. What could the problem be?

oldcutlass

Did you get it aligned?

66_Jetstar

Not enough caster or the balljoints are way too tight..

Chuxter

Yes had alignment. How much should ball joints be loosened?

oldcutlass

I doubt it's the ball joints if the steering moves freely. Do you know how much caster was set during the alignment?

Chuxter

I might have the print out still. I know the guy that did it and I'm fairly sure he set it to what it was supposed to be. Watched him do it.

droldsmorland

As mentioned...caster...what was it set to?
Too much friction somewhere. Is the linkage rubbing?
Get it up on jack stands. Turn the wheel lock to lock. See or feel anything out of the ordinary?
Drop both outer tie rod ends from the knuckles. Grab the tires, rotate each side lock to lock. Should move easily.

Chuxter

It turns so easy sitting on the ground you can literally turn it with 1 finger. Does not feel as if anything is binding.

droldsmorland

The power steering pump pressure can overcome significant binding/friction, whereas returning to center isn't using any power assist. It returns on the caster and motion of the vehicle. Toe can have a slight effect if its way off.
Steve

Chuxter

Is it possible that the pump is putting out too much psi?

66_Jetstar

I once failed a car for inspection because the balljoints were falling out of it. The owner was a DIY guy who replaced the lowers using a BFH instead of a press. He deformed the body of the joints enough to make them tight. The car tracked all over the place and wouldn't return to center. It was a handful to drive. Thats why I suggested it.. I've also seen a tight pitman arm do the same..

droldsmorland

Humm too much pressure is too subjective. Would need to put a gauge on it and get data.
The pump is designed to bypass over PSI. If you had the old one you could do a quick swap...if the old one worked. Are the in & out lines the same as the OEMs?
When you go to either "lock" is the knuckle making contact with the stop pad on the A-Arm?
Does it jerk the steering wheel out of your hand and hydraulically locking the steering wheel in either lock-to-lock position?

Sugar Bear

Was the steering gearbox replaced or adjusted (tightened) during the rebuild?

Chuxter

Gearbox and pump have been replaced Gearbox is used. Does not sound like there is 1 easy fix. I will start looking into all of these suggestions. Spindles have also been replaced with used ones to convert over to disc brakes so I will look at them too. Thanks for the help.

Fun71

That made me remember there is a pressure regulator(?) behind the high pressure line fitting. If this is missing, could it cause the issue?

droldsmorland

Chuxter,
For future ref, it's always a good idea to lead with a complete history of when the problem began and the total of parts changed. Makes troubleshooting online more efficient.

My money is on the used box. No telling who was playing with either adjustment. Chances are the pitman got adjusted and its too tight. Everyone thinks that nut is the grand solution to tightening up play. It isn't. Gearbox play is not a field adjustment. Done wrong will lead to premature worm gear assembly failure/damage AND cause the no-return problem you are having.

Call Marty and ask for advice. Or do the right thing and send him the box to tune. While you're at it have him put in the fast ratio.
See the vid below.

Chuxter

This car has been off the road for 40 years.; Everything is different on it.

69455

Gear box not set on center or rebuild not correct